Theghostis
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Posts posted by Theghostis
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@Michael Darnton I’m in the US — west coast.
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After looking at the photos, two things came to mind immediately—the finger board and nut look really thick and the neck set looks off, but that may just be due to the camera angle.
The fingerboard has been planed since this photo was taken, but this is something that I can bring up when I do take it to a luthier. @Alto Ego What specifically about the neck set looks off? This was not mentioned when I had work done on it previously but I can ask about it when I have it evaluated again.
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Here is a post of mine showing quite a few photos of the violin in case anyone is interested. This was before I had it set up by a luthier who planed the fingerboard, and made some adjustments to the bridge and soundpost.
In terms of location I am in the US on the west coast. The violin has not undergone any major humidity changes recently, although I do take it to the mountains where it is dry once a year in the summer for a chamber music camp.
Some of you have made good points and offered good suggestions. To clarify my concern with taking my instrument to the recommended luthier is not just that I know the cost will be high but that this individual charges an hourly rate for setups and to my knowledge, evaluation is a part of this, so I am paying regardless of the outcome, where I am accustomed to getting an evaluation in order to decide what work I want done.
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I don’t detect open seams and the bridge feet look to fit well, although I’ve always thought the bridge was a little strangely made. The sound post is a very likely issue. Although it could also just be an issue with the instrument itself.
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While I know the general answer is that I need to take my violin to a luthier, I’d like to get some general input on what setup issues might be plaguing my violin.
The issue: My violin is suffering severe string response issues. While the violin has never been the easiest to play, the issues seem to have become worse in the past year to the point where I do not want to play this violin anymore. The issue seems to be across strings but is most severe on the D string. In order to start a note speaking, I must attack the note with the bow and heavier bows seem to work best (viola bows, cello bows) to activate the strings. I have another violin with worse tone that does not suffer from this issue, and responds quite easily with my bows.
I have tried different strings, and some seem to make the issue far worse, but it seems present with all strings I’ve tried. I had the violin adjusted about 4 years ago by a well-respected luthier. I have not taken it in since, so I know that a luthier visit is in order.
My teacher agrees that my violin has an issue and has recommended I go to a specialist in setup who to be quite expensive. My challenge is that I don’t know if much/how much can actually be done to my instrument and don’t know if simple setup changes could resolve the issues. I am willing to invest in a custom setup if I think most of the issues can be resolved. My violin isn’t anything special but has reasonably good tone (a mid 20th century Mirecourt factory instrument).
What are some possible reasons my violin has severe response issues? What are some things I should try or look for?
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@David Alex Tricot @HoGo and @Brad Dorsey Thank you for all the suggestions. These all seem like good options. I do not know if I will be able to make and insert a thin shim as the space is very small, but it’s certainly worth trying. Regarding the rib, the idea to attempt to force it back in place while gluing seems like the best idea if I can somehow accomplish it. Otherwise, I may attempt to simply glue it back as-is. While the cello is solid wood, it’s a very basic student instrument and I’m not sure it’s worth the cost of repairing the rib professionally especially if the neck issues get worse (or are worse than they immediately appear). It’s something I’ll continue to consider.
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I got a cheap student cello that has a couple issues. I’d like to try resolving the issues myself because I don’t think it’s going to be worth getting it professionally repaired. I am interested in getting some advice on the best way to proceed.
the neck has separated from the button. The neck angle still seems ok. But I can see some cracked varnish at the sides of the neck mortise so it looks like the cello experienced a fall or other impact. If I glue the button back to the neck heel, is there risk of the button breaking if the neck is otherwise compromised and detaches or otherwise breaks once I put string tension on the neck? The neck still seems to be solidly attached to the body.
the lower rib near the end pin is warped. I want to close up the seams but don’t know if it’s more harmful to the instrument if I don’t try in some way to resolve the warp rather than just gluing it back together (if possible).
I’ve read a bit about the usual fixes for warped ribs and they look rather involved.
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I purchased a viola from a violin shop in Spain and after the instrument has been held up in customs for 10 days, I’ve been informed that I need to submit a Lacey Act declaration. The shop “filled out” the form but neither item on the form was one I ordered. I need to declare the rosin and the viola as they are both made of plant products. Does anyone here have experience with this and advice on the best way to approach this form? I have asked the shop to fill out the form again, but I will need to sign it and confirm that what the shop provides is true.
As the form requires all the woods to be listed with their respective codes and quantities, how do you list a product made of multiple woods without it looking like you purchased the item multiple times to prevent duplicate customs duties?
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Congratulations on your viola. I bet it will play even better with a setup and adjustment. You might ask the luthier for string recommendations when you take it for a setup. I’ve personally liked both Warchal Amber and Brilliant strings. I’ve been curious to try Dominant Pro as I hear they are easy to play and they are a little less expensive than rondo, PI, Evah, etc. I had bad luck with vision solo on my Jay Haide viola but I know some people like these strings. If the Larsen A looks expensive to you, try Jargar or the warchal Amber A.
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@MANFIOthank you for the details on how you set up your violas. This is helpful.
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I know after length has been discussed here a lot but I’ve only seen a few discussions specific to viola after length, and they stated that a longer after length often works on violas. My question is how much longer?
I had a conversation with a luthier recently about adjusting the setup on my recently acquired viola and he noted that the after length is very long. He recommended a 13.5cm tailpiece and it currently has a 12.5cm tailpiece.
Measurements are 37.2cm vibrating string length and 7.8cm after length.
I think the viola sounds pretty good but it hasn’t been played in a long time so do believe it could benefit from a setup and the string height needs to be lowered by 1mm according to 2 luthiers (I agree). I don’t want a longer tailpiece and lower bridge to dampen the lively sound of the instrument too much.
I am comfortable doing some experiments with tailpieces and possibly using an adjustable foot bridge to experiment with bridge height, but I plan on taking the instrument to a luthier for a real adjustment at some point (and maybe a lower bridge if I don’t dislike the sound).
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I just acquired a Henri Vallon viola and am very interested to hear if anyone here has any other information on this maker.
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Did you end up purchasing this? I saw it listed as well.
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I have a Jacques Leclerc. The varnish is rather shiny and is faux antiqued in an ugly style. The other photos I’ve found online of Jacques Leclercs look exactly like mine. The varnish on the front of yours looks different. Here’s an example of one that looks pretty much exactly like the one I have. Of course the model may have changed over the years it was made so they might not all look alike.
In the US, based on the research I’ve done, these instruments sell for around $$4-5k, maybe a little less depending on location.
Have you tried the instrument you are asking about? How does it sound? -
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This is a link to the JB viola that's for sale: https://www.violinviolacello.com/PageOfJennyBaillyViola.htmFor some reason I like the look of this viola. I don't know a lot about violins and violas, but visually this one appeals to me.
I also enjoyed reading about the violin in the OP and the repair results.
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I’ve never purchased an instrument from an auction like tarisio but these two instruments also looked interesting to me as a player who wants a smaller instrument. There’s also a violin by the same maker in the auction.
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On 10/17/2023 at 10:37 PM, DonGiovanni said:
interested to know what your teacher thinks, as that person is the best person now to understand what violin is good for your current stage, and from your side what you need to make sure of is that your teacher is not getting any percentage from the violin sale, so you can get an actual honest opinion.
Out of the two trial violins I brought to a lesson which were pretty different in price, my teacher said both had something that my current violin does not, but to keep looking. There was also some suggestion that the qualities I am likely looking for are mostly found outside of the price range I've been looking in. My teacher does not think that my current violin is holding me back but agrees with me about some of the deficiencies I find in my current violin. I don't get a strong sense that my teacher has a lot of experience with violin pricing specifically. I don't know if my teacher would get a percentage of the sale but given no particular attachment to a specific shop, I think this is not too likely.
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4 hours ago, Guido said:
Chances are they are not out to get you, and they'll know their market.
I don’t actually think they are. It’s a reputable shop. But the local market may or may not be making prices higher (maybe a lot?) than elsewhere.
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51 minutes ago, Christopher Jacoby said:
Granted, I'm on the East Coast, but those prices are low for the current market. No one is trying to get over on you. A set of Dominants costs 85 DOLLARS now. Heberlein, Meinel, Roth are going for 12-16k regularly the last year.
Thank you for your insight.
I do trust that the shop I reference is reputable. It’s that I am concerned that the local market may be priced a lot higher than everywhere else. It sounds like it’s likely within range of US prices.
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1 hour ago, Violadamore said:
There's no way that a violin can be overpriced, because the industry has no standards to go by.
More seriously, shop for a violin and bow that suit you (rather than by price and provenance), but first you have to try a lot of them, to know what suits you. Check these videos out, https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/359087-the-correct-way-to-buy-an-instrumentbow-imho/#comment-1011499
I’ve watched the violin shopping video. While it was highly entertaining I’m not sure that it gave me much more knowledge of the actual process of selecting an instrument.
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1 hour ago, nathan slobodkin said:
Where are you/
US West Coast. I probably need to be more specific than this, but it’s a start.
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I've been trying violins at my local shops, and the prices seem higher than I expected in some cases. The prices on German trade violins from the 20th century have particularly surprised me. I unfortunately did not get specific dates for some of the instruments I tried, which I know makes a difference in price. Do these prices sound normal, understanding that I didn't write down the years for most instruments and prices will range depending on the year?
EUGEN MEINEL for $12,500.
Heinrich Th Heberlein for $10K
Jurgen Klier for $6,250 (I think this was a 1990s or late 1980s model)
KA Gutter 1921 for $11,500
From a different shop:
Gustave August Ficker for $8,500 - mid 1950s model
In my local area, I have the help of a professional (my violin teacher) to guide my violin search and eventual purchase, but I'm starting to wonder if I should explore shopping outside of my area. I am also considering lesser known contemporary makers but I haven't found anything contemporary that I am particularly drawn to yet. Most of what the shops show me are German or French workshop violins.
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On the subject of Shar violins, they have a clearance section with trade in instruments and sometimes they offer additional coupons. I've only tried their Carlo Lamberti line which is a bit more expensive than the Franz Hoffman, but it seemed like a decent beginner instrument.
@ChickenBeeMan Taking a look at the violin you inherited pictured above, it looks like it had a large top crack repaired in a bit of an amateur way and the pegbox looks a bit chewed at one of the peg holes. As someone who played a violin with very bad pegs that I could not learn to tune as a youth, I would highly urge you to make sure that the violin is in full working order before your child plays this instrument.
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I've done this before. I just moved over the A, D, and G and got a short scale viola C. I probably had dominants on my violin at the time and I think I tried a Zyex C. Helicore C might work well for a violin strung as a viola (they make a short scale viola and a violin C).
My experience was that my instrument sounded just fine as a viola (and not really worse than some 14" violas I've tried).
If you want to keep the violin strung as a viola, you might want to make sure the bridge and nut have the right grooves for viola strings and have a soundpost adjustment. I think some violins make better violas than others.
Regarding viola size, I have a 15.5" viola that I have been avoiding playing because I often get hand pains when I play it for the duration for example of an orchestra or chamber music rehearsal. While it's very true that small people can play larger violas, not all people are equally flexible and sometimes it makes more sense to play a smaller instrument. Also, I find that having my arm very extended makes playing in first position on the C string, especially with vibrato, rather difficult.
Diagnosing Response Issues in a Violin
in The Pegbox
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@Michael Darnton I will try to update this thread once I have visited a luthier to say how it goes and if I’m able to resolve the issues with my violin. Now I just need to determine who to go to for the evaluation and work.