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Dan2

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Everything posted by Dan2

  1. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks guys for the consideration and advice.
  2. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks Jerry, Unfortunately this happened this afternoon whilst the bow was being played. Caused quite a shock apparently! You can see there is a split of sorts in the white plastic stuff which I presume has caused the hair to come out. I can't actually figure out how the hair is supposed to hold in the slot? edit: ok so there is a little wooden wedge that has come out which I just found on the floor that explains how the hair is held into the slot. I'm guessing the stress of the hair pulling back on the plastic during playing (warm room) caused the plastic to split and the wedge to pop out?
  3. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Hi Jerry, Yes, it will have to go back I'm afraid. I'm happy to pay again for it to be re-done because it was fine when I checked it 5 minutes after picking it up. On the day of the re-hair and at 9am when the relative humidity was 92%, the air temperature was 16.9 degrees c. I am unable to get records for the dew point going back unfortunately.
  4. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks Jerry, On the day of the re-hair the relative humidity at 9am was 92%. That was the highest of the month and the only really wet weather day we have had in a few months with about 13mm of rain. The 9am mean for the month is 66% and the lowest for the month at that time has been 47%.
  5. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks Jerry. It is over a week and a half since the re-hair and since the air was humid enough to take the pressure off the stick. I have checked the bow regularly and whilst it seems the humidity is fluctuating somewhat it must rarely go high enough to allow the hair to lengthen enough to take the tension off the stick with the frog still attached. My understanding is that, in addition to lengthening and shortening with changes in humidity, the horse hair on a bow will stretch permanently with use over time. Do you know or does anyone else know by how much the hair will stretch with use and over what period of time? Thanks
  6. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks Brad and Jerry. There is about a 5mm distance from the bow wood to the hair when the screw is fully unwound in the middle of the day and relative humidity about 37%. I tried to upload a photo but couldn't get it to work. Looking at it, I estimate that it is probably only a couple of mm in extra length in the bow hair that would allow the wood to relax. Perhaps the hair will stretch that far in a month or so? Have others found that a similar tight re-hair will stretch out ok with use in a month or so? First thing in the morning there was a little less of a gap as the humidity was and is usually higher then. I took the bow into the bathroom as an experiment and ran the hot shower. The water vapour in the air soon lengthened the hair enough. It is a pernambuco Seifert viola bow.
  7. Dan2

    Bow hair is tight

    Thanks Guido, Thanks for the extra step of the photo too. I take it that you tighten the hair with the screw once it is looped over the chopstick, and I guess the higher the tension the greater the chance of stretching it? I take it there is no issue with wetting the hair, in that it doesn't damage it in any way? The hair has been rosined and played on for about a week. Do you know if this procedure is sort of speeding up a stretching process that would happen with the ordinary use of the bow over say a 6-12 month period? Thanks.
  8. I'm looking for advice on a tight bow re-hair. The bow was re-haired recently during rainy (humid) weather. The bow hair was fine when I brought the bow home from the luthier, however now (during dry and lower humidity conditions) it it quite tight and it is not possible to allow the bow wood to relax without removing the screw and releasing the frog from the bow. Will the hair stretch over say the next few weeks as a result of being used? Can the hair be wetted on the bow whilst it is under tension in order to cause the hair to lengthen permanently or will it just shrink back when it dries? Thanks.
  9. Thanks everyone for the advice. Most helpful.
  10. Hi John - I wondered the same thing from time to time, particularly as the advice was near the beginning of the article where he talks of trimming down the top of the nut. However, going on some comments above (Torbjorn uses .6 on each and David B. goes higher to allow for wear), perhaps he really did mean the string height above the fingerboard at the nut? Surely it is a pretty big typo otherwise? It does appear to be roughly double the height I thought was usual however.
  11. Hi - hoping there might be advice on the gap under the strings at the nut. I have an article by Andrew Finnigan (Luthier based in Bremen, Germany) from the Strad magazine a few year back. He says, "How high the strings should be depends on the player, but I use the following measurements as a starting point. Violin 0.6 at the treble and 0.8 at the bass". I have found advice from older posts on Maestronet to suggest .3 mm gap under the E string and .4mm at the bass. I would be interested to know any current thoughts please. Thanks.
  12. Thanks Nathan - I must say have been surprised (pleasantly) by the responses to my question.
  13. Hi Jim, thanks so much for your help. I really am in two minds. I've shown a couple of people and they have sort of turned their noses up a bit. It looks unusual. I wonder how it happened? My theory is that the solvents (gum turps I put in plus that already in the varnish) have permeated the coatings and raised the grain. Do you see any trouble with the bridge feet sitting on those ridges if I leave it as is? I could flatten that area a bit?
  14. This image hopefully shows the issue of the little ridges. The issue of the colour I have taken from the top and how to perhaps fix that is separate of course.
  15. I have found that the varnish on the top has formed quite noticeable grooves on each of the grain lines. If you run your finger or nail over the surface it is very obvious. I wonder if the bridge will sit ok on them? In the photo you can see a patch where I used very fine sandpaper to try and get rid of them, but my outer varnish layer is thin and the underneath colour layer got removed unfortunately from the high points. It feels much flatter but looks bad and now I have no idea how to fix it. Any ideas please?
  16. Thanks very much for that. I didn't heat the varnish but I ended up doing three different things and this is the report for what it is worth. On the scroll I used cold pressed linseed oil. Working time extended marginally...the varnish was rubbery for a while afterwards. I used lavender oil for the sides and back and my working time was still not good, The varnish has dried well but I left brush marks in it. The top I used gum turpentine and that extended the working time a little better and dried well. Hopefully fat over lean not compromised. I'd say my varnish had gone "off" somewhat.
  17. Hi Riverview - are you saying I should warm the varnish in the bottle (say in some water) and apply it warm? I just tried the lavender oil and I still had little time - I did the ribs and back however, just the belly to go. Thanks.
  18. Well -I looked on the back of the bottle and it is not suggested that it be drunk...however it doesn't mention anything about adding it to violin vanish either.
  19. Thanks very much everyone. Joe, I'm not sure if it has thickened with time. Possibly a little. It has a little dried skin on the top. My wife has kindly offered lavender oil as per the attached photo. Is that suitable do you think? She has been using it to get through my violin making project.
  20. I have some International Violin Company oil varnish that is a few years old and now seems to tack up very quickly and leaves me no working time. Also I would like to apply a nice thin layer. Is there something that I can add to it to extend the working time? I have some excellent quality cold pressed linseed oil and I have some Gum Turps. Any suggestions please would be appreciated. Thanks.
  21. Dan2

    Neck Thickness

    It looks like this.
  22. Dan2

    Neck Thickness

    Very good point Tim. I think you are right about 28mm. (Luckily?) I erred on the side of a high projection when I set the neck, and it seemed to be curiously high at 29.5 mm, even though the height at the end of the board was 22mm. Now, yes it will drop which is a shame and I am disappointed about it. I have half a mm off the board so far at the bridge end and it is incredibly tedious work. I have glued some sandpaper to a straight piece of sassafras and am using that to flatten the board down after doing each end. It will be an instrument that I will play if it sounds ok, so I want it to be right.
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