mood2000

i agree with martin, also check the height of the nut too

Mittenwald made

you have to reset or replace the sound-post As Soon As Possible exactly , to prevent any crack could be caused by the strings tension/forces , be careful !!! good luck

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your violin made in Czechoslovakia , c. 1930's as per "violin identification and price guide book by Roy Ehrhardt"

what i know about the "Old Saxon" violins by : - the upper bout is slightly angular . https://www.corilon.com/us/library/instruments/the-violin-provenance-value-and-appraisal - some buttons "heel" of the back plate angular . - the button is not round as the modern shape . - LOB is slightly less than 14" ===================== what i can see from your pictures : - inside the peg box is (inked/ebonized) means your violin probably made around mid 1900's . - the height of the ribs are same in the (Upper & lower Bouts) . IMO

i agree with Guido . First violin is looked like Chinese workshop such as (Liuxi workshop, Ma Zhibin workshop, Xuxin workshop, ... ) it is European wood probably imported from Romania , which is better than a cheap factory made , nice antique varnish , nice work too , suitable for the intermediate level . The second violin is looked like Romanian violin may be made by (Gliga workshop) the back plate made from "ash maple wood" . Also suitable for the Beginner level . the first violin characteristics are better than the other , f-hole fluting , antique varnish , nice fitting for the pegs & nice setup . anyway each violin must be less than $200 for these levels . i prefer the old European cottage/factory made than the modern workshops , French , German & Czech workshops are better for the student level , also good if you want to sell your instrument back . IMO

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