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Wood Butcher

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  1. What you are describing might be the centre joint. Sometimes these can start to come open, but it can be reglued. Maybe it already has, and this is why you can notice it. Even if it is a crack, these too can be repaired. Not everything warrants taking an instrument apart to repair a crack and fitting cleats, though this is obviously the best method. My advice would be to take it to a qualified restorer, and have them look at it for you, and give you a price. You can then decide what might seem the best course of action. Otherwise, it's just a lot of what if's, and guessing, which isn't going to get you far.
  2. You can take the violin to somewhere to have these areas professionally cleaned. Although I clean my own violins, over time the rosin builds up a bit more than my bottle of cleaner can handle. I don’t like the idea of chemicals sitting on the varnish for long, or lots of scrubbing. Therefore, once in a while, or when changing strings, I ask someone to look at it for me. Doesn’t take them long, and looks like new afterwards, if a 250 year old violin can ever look new
  3. You think so, when the chin of the scroll is so square?
  4. You can try turning the iron down a bit. Sometimes it can help to use a piece of damp cloth to help with bending, and as an insulator. Not everyone uses moisture though, so if you do, you must leave ample time for any moisture to leave the ribs, before gluing them to the blocks.
  5. This has nothing to do with paint, but I was wondering if your tortoise has gone to bed for the winter yet? How do you prepare for it?
  6. This is quite funny now While there are a few professionals who frequent M’net, 99% of the people here are rank amateurs, have a go hero’s with no formal training whatsoever, armchair theorists, and a few bored keyboard warriors. Correspondingly, opinions are going to be all over the place, with many being utterly wrong. Not sure what sort of reassurance that is going to give people, if this truly going to be your source of expertise for sales
  7. Maybe it’s best to ask what something might be, before you buy it. Now it’s yours…
  8. As this is on the inside surface, which you will later hollow out, it might present no problem at all.
  9. Yes you should get this fixed immediately, you just can’t use the violin like this. The crack looks clean, and this is the best for a good repair. Once rosin and dirt get into the crack, it’s harder to repair, and may not hold as long.
  10. This is quite surprising, as it is the most commonly encountered type of violin, being German and from the very end of the 19th Century. I do like the wide flames on the back. Perhaps they did recognise it, but did not wish to dampen your enthusiasm.
  11. As 355 is a standard back length for 4/4, how can it suddenly become 7/8, based only on the string length? Seems a 7/8 should, and does have everything proportionally smaller. What you are describing is something else entirely. I’m not seeing anything remotely Guad like in the OP cello. When I look at the pictures, I’m thinking oh God… Not oh, Guad.
  12. Does this violin have upper corner blocks? Might be hard to tell unless you have a small mirror.
  13. It’s just the nicks on the soundholes that have been changed. The soundholes are the original shape otherwise.
  14. Which is the point I was getting at. It's easy for Germain to take pot shots at a high end JTL, as just trade, and therefore not special. But the reality is that there was nothing different happening in supposedly more illustrious workshops, which he/she might approve of.
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