Wood Butcher

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About Wood Butcher

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  1. These pins must have been very common in the past, they crop up on old German, Prague and at other places. The surviving ones I have seen were almost all ivory, and a few from ebony.
  2. It is a pin which runs across the pegbox. The purpose is to carry the A string over the E & D peg, so they don’t foul each other.
  3. Wolf tones or wolf notes, are related to the main body resonance. Because of this, they are hard to eliminate. Sound post adjustments can help, as this will change the way the instrument responds, but often the wolf will just move position slightly. Have you tried a brass on string eliminator yet?
  4. This is what I was wondering earlier, many photos are not to scale, have distortions, or do not seem to match published measurements for other reasons. With the overhang added to the ribs, it’s going to be quite different to the PG model. The C bout might also differ in length between the inner points of the corners.
  5. Each to their own, I’d rather have it right from the start. OP, can you provide measurements of your rib set in mm?
  6. I agree with JohnCockburn. Better to start again, continuing with the incorrect measurements will undoubtedly lead to further problems. Might not even fit in some cases. You need to make sure the centre line of your template is correct, sounds like it is off by several mm. Are you sure the image you used is to correct scale? You say the length is correct, what is the length you have right now?
  7. Personally, I don't like the appearance. The long whiteish pores make it look strange. I think they are quite hard, and maybe it's an alternative to rosewood.
  8. Also possible that it could have been made by aliens, that the earth is hollow and filled with dinosaurs inside, that the moon is made of green cheese, but all seems rather far fetched.
  9. Wood Butcher

    Bow ID

    Looks a German bow, presumably silver mounted. At a guess early 20th century. Others I have seen were fairly standard in terms of quality, despite all the engraving.
  10. Perhaps, but it didn’t really need to happen. That top removal looked like a brutal race to the finish line. I doubt any client would be pleased to find extra cracks in their instrument as a result of trying to repair something else.
  11. Hello, Your violin was probably made in Markneukirchen around 1890 - 1900.
  12. You can actually see a new crack appear at 6.30 from one end of the bottom nut, and then get longer as the knife is pushed across the block
  13. Hide glue seems to grab pretty fast, and even after a very short while can be difficult to get apart, but it is also nowhere near dry at this point. Usually I leave things clamped overnight, especially in the case of neck setting. Even then I still wonder if it is ok to take the clamps off after 8 hours, or could I be taking too long, and be able to work on things after just a few hours? It is not especially warm in my little workshop, and the humidity in there is usually around 50%
  14. Can you expand on this a little please?
  15. How can you possibly tell this on a finished instrument? That’s just nonsense. All of the surfaces are reworked, so you could never know how the log was sawn up in China.