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    Viola student

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Florian's Achievements

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  1. Update The joint had swollen because of humidity changes and I had to refit it. I found a perfectly flat surface and used chalk fitting to get the joint perfect. It took quite some hours before I had chalk-marks all over but it was worth it. I decided to use a different glue than before. I couldn't find regular hide glue locally so I got some rabbit skin glue from an artists store. Apparently this is the strongest animal glue out there (it's also the most expensive though). I clamped the glue with some masking tape. the joint turned out ok, the tap tones are clear and I can't hear any problems however it has some slight undulations. Since I don't trust the joint 100% I decided to make a plaster cast to get support so there's no strain on the joint while I'm working on the back. After I'm done thicknessing I'll add cleats to the inside.
  2. When I originally glued the maple everything fit perfectly. However Norwegian Autumn has come and the humidity is very high. Now the joint seems to be distorted. I can force it together with clamps. Is it bad to force it?
  3. I used Bone Glue, is there a big difference between this and hide glue?
  4. thank you all for the replies! Do you know any good articles on making cleats? I'm not really sure what's important to think about when making them. I'm talking about the cleats you make after glueing, not the temporary glueing alignements.
  5. While working on my first violin i managed to crack open the center joint on the back. apparently it wasn't glued well enough. Is there any way to repair this, or do I have to spend 100$ (wood + shipping and import tax) to get new wood?
  6. the post didn't get any attention because the admins did not approve the until 40h after i posted it. When it got posted it was already on the second page because it was sorted by its original post date. thanks for the reply, I have decided to go with the plaster of paris filler and follow the varnishing procedure as written in Roger Hargrave's book on bass making. I now see that a great downside to plaster is the stirring for 1 continuos hour, my arms did indeed fall off (or at least it felt like it)
  7. I'm kind of confused of what the different grounds do. Correct me if I'm mistaken but it seems the two options in the title are the two main grounds used. What are the differences and why would I choose one over the other?
  8. In the case of linseed oil, is that boiled or raw?
  9. Has anyone tried these finger planes from ebay? they look pretty nice to my untrained eye at least. I see that this seller has a normal type and a "high quality" version.
  10. What are the reasons for that all modern instruments have a solid piece of ebony? All fingerboards were veneered in the baroque era but why did they stop doing this? If there aren't that many differences then why don't we start veneering our fingerboards again to save the threatened ebony wood?
  11. My own personal viola is very nice and based off an old Italian one, however I once tried a german modern design (I can't remember the makers name) which had an enormous lower part, I have to say I was quite impressed by how much depth and sound it had.
  12. Are there any plans for violas you can recommend or places in general to get plans. I noticed that for example the strad doesn't sell any viola plans
  13. I'm planning to make my first string instrument soon and as a violist (I've been playing for seven years now) I of course really want to build my own viola. After searching for a long time online I quickly find out however that there are so many more resources for violin and cello building for beginners as well as wood and hardware required to finish. So my question is; is it a better idea for me to build a violin as there are many plans, instructions and cheap hardware for it, or should I make a viola which I can play myself and be proud of? (with maybe a steeper learning curve and more things to work out for myself)
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