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juniorhifikit

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  1. The neck was solid when I received the bass, so I didn't have to do anything to it, except reattach the pegbox (another thread perhaps). I took the top off, which was broken into three pieces, glued it back together using the "pillar and calamari clamp" method, and cleated the cracks. All work was done with hide glue. It never occurred to me to check the alignment of the neck while the top was off. I can see that the neck has been refit, as the button is cut, and the sloppy glue along the shoulders is not original, nor is it hide glue. Part of the reason I chose to not reset the neck at this time is that I anticipated a ton of work getting it off and the joint clean & tight. For now, the cockeyed bridge spacing is workable and I'm enjoying playing the bass. Sorry if my posts are late - they need to pass some moderator approval before appearing.
  2. I did the path of least resistance for the moment. I cut the slots in the bridge at 15/16", but off-center. This means the G string is basically in the correct spot on the fingerboard, but the E string has a bit or real estate beside it. I used it on two recordings and took it to a back yard (social-distanced) jam last night. It works pretty well! I'll reset the neck and redo the bridge when I have some more down-time, and may attempt to finish the shellac job. This bass will never be great (or even good) - even once I reset the neck. But at least I have a bass to play, and it only cost me $300 in hardware, plus some sweat-equity. Thanks for all the great advice! p.s. Bass is a hard instrument to play! Much respect to people who have mastered it!
  3. Here's another shot of it. It's hard to represent with the camera, but yeah, it's definitely on crooked!
  4. Thanks for chiming in. The neck joint is solid, and the angle seems to lineup nicely with a standard sized bridge for a 3/4 bass. Since the bevel has been half-removed, and there's plenty of extra thickness under the bevel, I think I'm going to reshape the fingerboard to a more standard curve. With the bridge centered on the body, and a 15/16" string spacing on the bridge, the strings will land adequately on the fingerboard. The E string will be further from the fingerboard edge than the G string. So for now, I'm going to try to solve this with the bridge & string spacing, and leave the neck as it is. If it's super uncomfortable or weird, I'll look into resetting the neck. I'll post a photo when it's finished.
  5. I should also add that it looks like there was once a Romberg Bevel that someone tried to remove, but gave up halfway through. It's like a "rounded Romberg Bevel".
  6. Hi there - hoping to get some advice on whether or not to reset the neck on this bass. Backstory: I'm a novice bass player at best, and a total newbie at instrument repair. I was given this bass in pieces - top broken in 3 pieces, cracked ribs, peg box broken off, and no hardware. I decided to give it a go as a hobby/learning experience, so I made some clamps, bought some hide glue and went to town. This bass had dowels and many different kinds of glue just about everywhere! Most people would consider it firewood. I got the top back together and glued on, and the peg box and ribs repaired successfully. Now when lining up the new bridge to get a rough idea, it looks like the neck is on crooked! I marked things with blue tape and used twine to show the string path for the photo to make it easier to see. I could move the string slots over 3/8" to get the strings to land on the fingerboard; or reset the neck. Given that i'm a total novice, combined with the fact that I have no idea what I'll discover when I attempt to remove the neck, what would you all suggest?
  7. Thanks for the advice! It's already been a massive challenge just getting the top off. This instrument is a practice of sorts. It looks as though many other people have practiced the wrong "repair techniques" on it before me. It would otherwise be firewood. If it comes out well, I'll have an instrument to play. If it doesn't, I've learned a ton.
  8. Hi, I first want to thank everyone for sharing their collective knowledge. Such a great community! I've been given a horribly abused Georg Anton Schuster bass for free (all hardware missing, scroll broken off, multiple cracks in the top, cracked rib, lots of old "repairs" done with wood glue...) The local bass repair luthier quoted $1800 minimum to fix it up, which I don't have, so I'm going to try my hand at fixing it up. I've always been interested in learning about this kind of work as a hobby. I managed to get the top off (which was quite a feat as it was glued on with a combination of yellow wood glue in some spots - epoxy in others) and I'm ready to start fixing cracks. The main crack where the sound post was is all the way through from the f-hole to the bottom, so the top is in two pieces. I've made some "calamari' clamps and bought some 192 gram hyde glue, but I still have some rather basic questions: 1. How many times can you reheat/reuse a batch of glue? 2. I've heard off glueing paper to the bottom of the pillars to make them come off easier - is this right? 3. How much glue is used to secure the pillars to the inside of the top plate? 4. How do you remove the pillars when you're done? A tap with a hammer? 5. Where can I get proper spruce for making cleats? Is there a specific grade or sawing direction I should look for? Thanks!
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