Amateur Maker

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About Amateur Maker

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  1. After reading all of the responses in this thread I come to the conclusion that most makers don't use templates BUT of course MOST have a lot of experience while others have minimal experience. My question is: wouldn't someone like myself who has never made a violin benefit from templates when I do my first? At least it would be a guide for me to get some experience on approx. has to be taken off the plates?
  2. Speaking of Tool Organizer Racks some time ago there was a picture of one where each gouge was laid in. Best description I can remember. Can anyone help? Thanks
  3. How do I find the drawing that David Sora posted maybe a month ago?
  4. Last June you PM'd me about Frank Nichols scroll drawing and stated you "kept his best printing of a scroll and neck". I have since bought from "The Strad" a poster of Stradivari's "Messiah". Looking at Nichols's drawing and comparing it to "The Strad" poster I see numerous differences between the two. I am looking to making my FIRST violin BUT want to try and do it right but which one do I follow for measurements? I have written Frank about the differences but have not gotten a response. The only great problem is that "The Strad" does not have a complete drawing of the scroll and neck while Frank's does have this. Any suggestions you might have would be greatly appreciated!
  5. I know I have read this information which I seek but have been unable to find it after a search for the answer. At what angle are gouges sharpened to, what angle would this be and is it different for different sizes/widths?
  6. I have just been viewing a post showing the mold with corner blocks installed. On the mold, the height of each block is noted on the mold. I have read several places about tapering of the plates from bottom to top which is what was illustrated. My questions do you center the blocks on the mold to make the taper on the front and back of the violin or is the front just tapered, meaning the blocks are flat with the back? Are all violins tapered, whether just front or front and back? I have plans for the Messiah which I'm hoping to make.
  7. Well with that said I guess I should maybe look for a used Tormek. A new one is sure pricey then there are the attachments. Thanks for all the responses and opinions.
  8. So what do you think about the Tormeks sharpening abilities for gouges? Was it worth the money? With the jigs, you received can you sharpen the gouges? Anything else I should know about it would be nice.
  9. It appears to me if you read the description of each the Tormek at twice the price still doesn't include jigs. That is at least the way I read it.
  10. What is the opinion of the Rikon Power Tools 82-100 Wet Sharpener Kit44; 8 in. Has anyone used this tool to sharpen gouges and with what results? Would like to hear both pros & cons.
  11. Some time ago I received a list of gouges and their different uses. As you can see from the list that they are different brands. The question is: are all the gouges the same sweep, width, and radius of curvature if each is No. 6 or are all brands different. If not how do I convert his list to Pfeil gouges? His list is below: Brand names : Wolf, Dastra, Henry Taylor, Stubai N° : the sweep number engraved on the gouge, an indicator of the curve but applies only to gouges of the same brand Width : the width at the cutting edge, measured with a caliper Radius of curvature : draw a circle of given radius and mark the indicated width, to obtain the real curve of the gouge ; superimpose your gouge to the circle to see the correspondence of the curves. Use : main use of the gouge Scroll Wolf n°4 - width : 22 mm - radius of curvature : 60 mm use: pegbox and carving (scooping) of the volute Dastra n°6 - 18mm - r 17.5 mm carving of the volute and first turn vertical walls Henry Taylor n°6 - 17.5 mm - r 13 mm first turn vertical walls and carving the sta
  12. So it doesn't appear anyone uses power tools as in a joiner. Is this because Strad didn't do it that way or is it because you all have more experience than I and really know better using hand tools. I was thinking to run both pieces of the front across my joiner to flatten out the back then run it across the joiner with that finished surface to the fence to join where the two pieces are glued. Comments PLEASE!
  13. Roger Hills post wrote: If this is the poster (Messie) you started a thread about a while back, then I think your expectations were a bit unrealistic. I know my expectations were not unrealistic at all. When someone like myself (Amateur Maker) buys a product that does not have the information I expect i.e. lack of Neck drawing AND a not completed Top Long Arch how can I complete a Violin? For what is paid for these Posters I would have at least expected an answer to my many emails that I sent them concerning this. So do you still think I am unrealistic?
  14. In April I received a poster from STRAD which I was absolutely disappointed in. I wrote to them sometimes twice a week. As duane88 says "have been on the downward slide for a while". That was my first and last purchase from them as I feel they just don't care!