morgana

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Posts posted by morgana


  1. On ‎12‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 7:06 PM, David Burgess said:

     

    Morgana, you are such a treasure. :)

    I know David. I should be on show at The Albert Hall...actually, I am going back to work. No, not selling on eBay, but playing either violin or viola. Maybe both, female multi tasking doesn't stretch to the ability of successfully playing a violin and viola at the same time.

    I'm available for weddings, funerals, Christenings, public houses, train stations, oh yes, orchestras, folking folk bands, The BBC...maybe not that last one.

    Just to make it very clear I do not involve myself with playing Mahler.


  2. On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 1:52 AM, David Burgess said:

    I still don't quite understand the need or desire to gender-designate in our business. Aren't really talented people just really talented people?

    No! Talent has to come with concienciousness, dilugence, determination, passion, hard bloody work and, what men hate, but grow into human beings by. Failure.


  3. 9 hours ago, Violadamore said:

    No, you're all frightened to death that the other cavemen will laugh at you if you use the safety equipment, or don't try to turn a four-man-load into a one-man-load, etc..  Don't try to BS me on this, I've supervised field crews and written accident reports.  :rolleyes::P

    Nice one, Viola luv, some really stupid, dangerous lads out there. On here too. When do men grow up? Not one. But male cat ladies do, usually by being caught out by their women and dumped.

    or messing about on here! Lol!


  4. On ‎12‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 8:06 PM, RobS said:

    What's the difference between your edition and the one listed for $170 US at https://www.cremonatools.com/the-secrets-of-stradivari-s-f-sacconi.html ?

    The difference between them is that many anecdotes and stories and facts are missing. I know because the original was in the William Brown Library, in Liverpool. I read it and he really knew alot about Stradivari's homes and quoted from certain people who where around. Such as The Bergonsi family, and other sources like parish record office paperwork he was very happy to quote apparently ver batum, regarding the sad, criminal act of his remains being egsumed from The Catholic church, can't remember the name, for heresy, because he was not a good, in that parish's eyes, man, so also about his time in Florence, and the place catching fire the roof, and him being burnt very severely, trying to save his varnished instruments, also his children and wife receiving burns, some first degree burns, as the roof top was of thatch, he says that Stradivari lost a child to that fire. And saved most of ninety or so instruments.

     

    I should have kept that book as the wisdom and unscrupulous behaviour of our library of rare documents suffered from exploitation too.

    poor Stradivari He was convinced I read, also of Stradivari's infamous ground, was obsessed with his belief it was albumen, animal fat and mineral ground to seal the pores, stiffen the wood and honey was mentioned but he was not sure enough as he became rather confused at times over specifics, regarding the use of fish glue, and then he was more confusing regarding templates of various dimensions so, well, I should like to see that original reprinted book, as he seems to believe that Stradivari was a double edged character. He was convinced that he was not treated fairly by his fraternity, nor the Florence influences and the woods, and practices he used, in build quality, Sacconi desperately hangs his hat with as to Stradivari's singularly perfectionism in every detail of everything that made those Florentine instruments thicknesses breadth and depth, of the quality which was made so very very highest level craftpersonship.

    A Good read. I'd say, Saconni knew maybe the most about the man.


  5. Hi Bill, luv. I reckon you are right. It's so against the back end of mortice, I reckon a soft solder iron is in order. I'm busy cleaning up my house, as well as varnish finishing 2 violins, in this damp weather, and being disabled (not moaning, just saying) I am busy as a very busy bee.

    So, I reckon to put heat against the thing, then tap hammer it forwards angle to break it as the brass is quite thin, though brass is hard enough to need a good heat at weakest point.

    Once that thing is off using a good quick few taps, it'll shatter, then I can drill cut the actual swine, the angle against the end at 68 degrees, plenty of hard padding. Heat will just cause more swelling of the carbined steel so best angle tap see if it frees a bit and use a baring hard steel inserted into the angled drilled hole in the screw at 55 degree and it's going to cool down first, then tap it force it slowly towards coming out of it's jamming position, then as soon as you can feel it freeing, it'll come good outright twist at end.


  6. Whilst cleaning out my fish again full of cold me so v. Tired. I know that drilling into the screw is a stupid overkill, even with the brass eyelet out of the equation, it's going to be too hard to get through that solid steel.

    However, I have an embryonic idea.

    If I get a purchase on the screw after heat drilling at it's weakest point whilst wrapping it around the mortice with masking tape, like a buffering cradle, then wrapping stiffening sticks, to support the actual underneath of the stick at mortice and putting it in the hair jig. Then after I drill, or tip end soldering, get a 68 degree angle cut against the weak twine screw deep enough, I can maybe, using Bills advice on moving the screw down the mortice, with tap hammering, using a, well a tap hammer and a smal finely honed flat ended screw driver at that angle to see if the screw can be tempted to shift towards the exit of the stick end! If I can jolt itself towards without the encumbrance that's the trouble causer:- the brass eyelet which needs removing due to it's proximity inhibitating position but end against edge of end mortice channel then I can go to the top of the class, well A for effort anyway. Then I can get on with sleep food and actually finding the effin frog....AaaaaH!!!!! Then cuddling my fur kitten. And I will do it with photos too. So in the future if some poor, barstard who doesn't deserve to be given this situation, never caused trouble for anyone, always looked after others, never swore on purpose, or set fire to cats, went to church, Synagogue or Mosk, loved and cared for his or her mummy, daddy, sisters brothers, ferrets, whippets, hedgehogs, who wrpt at Lassie films, and apologised for everything doesn't end up in a high security mental hospital for the criminally insane, after this attempt, then God be blessed.


  7. 8 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

    I don't think it's as simple as that, because I think the screw is seized in the stick holes due to rust.  I think this because otherwise morgana would be able to slide the screw so that the end of it projects out of the end of the stick.  Cutting the screw into several pieces the way Josh did in the other thread might get it out.

    Brad, luv that's the trouble, it's stuck with the wood tight as nun's corset, and the wood is very hard Brazilian and very slim in radius.

    I've written on here to you Bill luv, but I am being moderated so its not gone public yet. X


  8. 13 minutes ago, Bill Yacey said:

    I don't believe there is any drilling necessary. Simply cut a groove through the eyelet with a small abrasive wheel parallel cutting lengthwise with the screw.  Insert a small flat blade screwdriver into the groove and give it a 1/4 turn twist or so to relieve the internal eyelet threads pressure against the end screw. Once it's loosened up, the end screw can be removed.

    Probably about 10 minutes work, total.

    Hi Bill luv, so sorry for being thick but what do you mean by a small abrasive wheel? Also, do you mean using it to cut actually through the brass eyelet until it has a parallel groove enough into it's side, then, with the flat headed small screwdriver, insert that into it and twist a quarter to actually split the brass eyelet, or loosen it so I can de thread it by its top bit to basically let it out of it's screw threaded eye, so then move it away from the but end position, enabling the screw itself to be extracted from it's rusted in solidly rusted in situation where it has no way of coming out without either hollow drilling into the wood or then soaking it in vinegar, and then clamping it and twisting it from into the mortise chamber? I think I might be missing a lot of brain cells lol! Will that screw come out without breaking it apart? Or tap hammering it out in the mortice using a lot of padding? Should I use oil, should I use heat, should I use vinegar? Should I just keep tap hammering it carefully like until the screw shifts down shaft towards the end so then extracate its protruding end with pliers twisting outwards carefully?


  9. No Brad luv, I've done gone been there as the photo shows. I mean NOT drilling in at the end. I mean at the screw it self after getting rid of the brass eyelet screw from around the main steel screw then drilling, I mean drilling using as was said, a dentist drill bit on my rotary drill to break the screw, or, seeing as said to just leave brass eyelet, and break as just said using a dentist drill on dremel and break the screw at the closest position without marring the screw so as to twist off brass eyelet, as it is moveable as I said, from side to side on screw thread, not towards or backwards along the screw. So if I can break the screw cleanly, I hope to get the eyelet off of the screw at the break, then able to remove the embedded foward end towards the nipple end of the bow. Then remove the remaining part embedded in the upper end of the mortice using above said process. Or processes without splitting the actual stick at the nipple inside end, which at the moment is not split, however I have seen so many bows which have split due to twisting a frog around with stuck screw and eyelet. Then I will put up photos as doing it. I'm going to set aside a day for doing this and photographs of it, as well as tools, explaining the process as I am doing it. It's helpful chaps like you that can show me, and give me the help needed to attempt with care, this procedure, then the remedial work to tidy up my mess of my first mistakes as in, asking about it and understanding. Cheers, lads a chicks xxx


  10. On ‎11‎/‎18‎/‎2019 at 9:31 PM, Guido said:

    There are people who always buy the cheapest, there are people who look for good value at a middle price point and there are people who will just go for the best. So, simplified, if you sell a violin at three different price points you will sell 3x the number of violins. You may vary some easy to observe differentiators that consumers can latch onto like different quality set-up elements, or a nicer case. And you want to have a line-up of model designations like cars so consumers can feel safe about exactly where they like to see themselves in their choices.

    I would highly doubt that any of that has anything to do with the actual violin.

    Really? I find that the great unwashed can see crap when they see it and want the best. If you look at fancy photos, it's still obviously obvious that a newly handmade violin with superior looks takes a blink of the eyes to see reality and quality, compared to obvious Chinese junk.


  11. On ‎11‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 3:30 PM, David Burgess said:

    Good for you! There are already more than enough cats and dogs (and humans) than can find good homes.

    Excess cats and dogs are "put down" at very high rates, due to overabundance.

    One sister and I have no genetic offspring. My other sister has two, both highly successful by most standards,  but she and her husband have also taken on many kids (some through foster parenting programs, and some adopted) who were born with fetal alcohol or crack cocaine syndrome. Not everything on her end has worked out all hunky-dory,  but there have been some occasional major wins. :)

    I do wish that I could could come up to the level of that sister, who those in my family sometimes semi-humorously refer to as "Saint Carol". :lol:

    Sorry David luv, not to answer you till now.

    Yes, you are right, in little Britain ppl breed cats, dogs, instead of selling crack, being taxi drivers or going on the sick benefits. I'm not blaming them at all, this Island nation has lost it's ability to construct, mainly because construction was lucrative in the wars, so Scotland lost steel making, warship construction and Napiers fine gun metal workers, mining operations finished due to using atom splitting nuclear power plants. I think we have 4 nuclear plants. Selafield 1 and 2, can't remember the others, all completely overtaking electricity supplies formerly using gas oil reserves of which offshore we have plenty of reserves, our oil rigs churn out tonnes every second, natural gas, offshore still doing a healthy profit. Liverpool is the chief import exporters in the EU. We export and import a third of all international goods, including live animals (horrendously btw).

    Haleeood branch of the RSPCA was closed down this April/May. It held thousands of dogs, cats, horses, ponies, wildlife, and was shut down because of government funding and issues of animal welfare. Thousands of strays, lost, dogs, cats, unwanted kittens, where kept alive and that was horrendous it closing, as the staff lost their jobs, as they took in any living animal and had a programme with the PDSA to give poor people free neutering's and money tokens for free inoculation of any pet, so vets associated with and who worked with them also lost their pittance paid money.

    If you can imagine the scale of number of deaths of animals there because of local council thieves who control everything and we pay higher council tax than Londoners. The ever funless imaginary world of New Labour. We have internment camps for illegal immigrants who survive the journey only to be beaten up. Good on you and your sister Carol is a good girl. Xxx


  12. Thanks Mike and Bill luvs. I will have a go at that. My problem is that I am searching fomu tools, bits, bobs odds and ends, because of having work done in my house, so I had everything in boxes. So cannot find the things I need, like sooo many dremel ends and then Irush, don't prepare, as I used to by getting everything I need or may need, clsmpings, preperation as you all know is so important rather than fanny around.

    See, that partially destroyed eyelet screw moves sideways, hence, needing a willing victim with hands to trust me to hold with pliers, as I drill using your tips of how to do it, get that damned eyelet screw out of the situation. Once that has been exhumed from causing more damage to the outer edges of the mortice, then drilling v carefully into that screw will be about do able.

    The less damage from my idiocy and gung ho anger is to listen to you who know. Ta luvs.

    Also, Thanks for putting up with me. I've been really ill and violent ex. Broke my arm 4 times, my hip smashed. Thanks for your help xxx


  13. 7 hours ago, Dwight Brown said:

    Dear Morgana,

    I'm afraid my dear  cat Loud Willy has been gone for a few years now.  He was a real character and liked to be one side of a pair of cat headphones purring in my ear anytime he got the chance.  Jerry P. Is a very talented bow and instrument restorer.

    https://trianglestrings.com/

    He does post here now and again.

    Josh Henry is also very talented as well and has done some fine work for me.

    https://www.fineviolinbows.com/contact.htm

     

    PS

    We presently have two rescue kitties Leica and Nikon,  Speedy the Whippet, and Sunkist the Golden Retriever  :-)

    DLB

     

    Ahhh, I'm very sorry for your loss. Loud Willy! Lol! Great name, meezes are very loud mouthed but they purr like an engine, it's very therapeutic. This Sooty character is very purry, furry and I rescued him too. Glad you are a cat lady too. Xxx

    Jerry P, and Josh Hernry, I've heard of him, thanks Dwight luv for the links.

    Here's my Poppy who I rescued too. I can't believe she's still gone. I used in read to her in bed.

    2017_01_20_22_32_24(2).jpg


  14. On ‎11‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 4:18 PM, Evan Smith said:

    There are so many ways and choices to make, have you spent some time looking through some old varnish threads, there is a wealth of information on here already, time  searching through this information is well spent. When you find something interesting that you can relate to, take a screen shot and save it to a varnish folder as it is impossible to remember it all in one go. Save the good threads and then go back and reread them again. This is about like going to collage,, the reason people go to collage is to be spoon fed most of the time, the info is there if one has the motivation to find it and they will be the smarter for their effort.

    This is not directed at you in particular, just saying, this is a long road, unless you just want someone to tell you what to do, which I certainly want sometimes.

    The variables are infinite and what one says won't work another comes along and with a slight adjustment makes it work just fine.

    I have never done the same thing twice, shellac, oil,, shellac and oil combined. Turpene varnish, amber varnish, tru oil,, brushed, hand rubbed, padded, super thick, super thin, mineral ground, protein ground, resin ground, no ground, colored ground, golden ground, oil based ground, water based ground,,,,,,,,,,,,.

    It's like a big candy store, it's not the ingredients that matter as much as it is learning how to handle the variable of each one and learn what the boundary's are.

     Any more questions ?

    Hi Evan, luv. I know I would like to ask you for advice but, I would rather not. I know how to finish a violin as well as start, middle and er nd but I am not sure yet that you would stick your neck out and put examples are your crafting of a violin and it's varnishing up. I am a woman and have. So here goes. As long as ppl put a colourless varnish to give depth to the underlying wood figure, and the carving is not bloated by coloured varnishing and, that the micro millimetres of layers, give everything depth and translucency within the under layers, then your eyes are deceived until someone goes and slaps some French polish, or rubs out the chanteuse of seeing coloured layers as a homogeneous depth, well, basically if everyone wants to know what to put on top of their coloured layers, just plainly speaking with respect, if you want a piano, then rub out the final layer and use button polish. If not, use oil based yellow Damar based oil varnish. Don't rub it out. Leave it to dry slowly with plenty of air. Apply with a varnish sponge. It keeps your important wood finishing skills intact and if you don't mind, stop slagging off me and women. Okay? I will post a photo of my finish in detail just to prove that I am worthwhile maybe listening to without being attacked. I actually make violins you know luv. X


  15. 2 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

    Got plenty, but thanks!

    From China? Or red maple? One piece backs from red maple aren't easy to carve unless they are softened. They tend to split, if dried out. I tried carving a piece from Canada off someone and it was no use, it bit down my tools very quickly and needed a wooden chisel hammer for everything.

    It's like working against the grain and too tough, waste of time.

    Maple or Sycamore is dependant on softness against hardness isn't it? If it's well moisture content without being soaked okay, it's still brittle. And ruins tone.

    I have some Fine Cut logs tight sized but as the tree was being topped slowly, bit by bit Brough down. It's split naturally outwards from it's heart. I'd rather that it will be a two piece back than a one piece shattered backed in the future.


  16. 19 hours ago, barnesviolins said:

    If there is no frog on the bow and it is a broken screw stuck in the stick, have you tried soaking the butt of the bow in vinegar to free the screw?

     

    Dorian

    Hi Dorian luv, I did ages ago but went on here to try and find a thread concerning soaking hardwood in anything and was warnings, I did and I panicked and got it out and ran away with fear as it distorted as if you can see that at the titsy end, now buggered up of the bow.

    Can't I just get my dremel and an attachment drill head behind the eyelet screw as it's right up against the end of the already marred mortice? And burr into it at angle with using buffers of shamgered aluminium tin can lid thingys I have made. They are great. Tubbs swore by them, then hit someone else if it went wrong, fell out of the pub, and cuddled his shop cat or bundle of horses hair, dependant on how drunk he was lol! X

    photo of the head. It's a hammer head, it's nicely cut, sorry again about the photo. Its sharper cut thsn it looks on the picture.

     

    FilterEffects_19_11_2019 05_44_15.jpg

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  17. On ‎11‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 8:53 PM, ilikewhey said:

    jay haide and snow or scott cao is a hit or miss, i played 5 jay haide including european wood, only 1 of them was decent, the others did not project and felt heavy. maybe they are ok if you are on suzuki 3 where you can't really push the violin. 

    i lucked out finding my recent purchase when looking for a back up fiddle, this luthier make his own but he travels to china often and took back a white body to finish, the completed violin was in my opinion better than most violin i tried sub 8k range, all the while being fraction of the price. 

    Snow violins which where sold on eBay years ago I bought two, first one sounded good and played almost perfectly but was very graduated, thinly, had a paper layer of coloured spray type varnish and the maker died I was told. I sold them for £250, both. They are great as long as you realise that this maker, is dead. Long gone. V. Sad. Mean it, I am not being sarcastic at all. He was the raised grain, making teaching master. They had everything apart from the weight, depth and fullness of tone.


  18. 50 minutes ago, JacksonMaberry said:

    Yeah, that sounds about right. Interestingly, I have seen some pretty intensely figured maple out of Yunnan province. China has some huge, ancient forests. There's gotta be great fiddle wood in there somewhere

    And if we buy it, whether or not to varnish already off the shelf or billets, I would hate to think that anyone cutting down ancient forests would not be crushed to death by a freak accident, you understand that comments are not taken with senses of humour by ppl on here. You know...You have to not be cryptic in a pathos enriched comment. Just buy my wood. It's real...wood.


  19. 9 hours ago, Dwight Brown said:

    You really need to consult with Jerry Pasewicz or Josh Henry.  If I had a bow with problems they would be my first choice.

     

    DLB

    (yes, I had to look up how to spell Jerry's name :-)

    Hi Dwight luv,

    who is Jerry Pasewicz? Sorry for my ignorance of this man.

    BTW I see you have a Siamese fur baby. How gorgeous. Have you still got him or her?

    My Meez Poppy, was run over 4 months ago by my next door neighbour. I am still devastated. Siamese cats are SO loving and loyal and intelligent, sensitive fur lovers.

    Back to this bow.

    I've made a mess of it. I seen to have completely lost it lately. I don't know!

    I asked about getting the brass eyeletted screw holder out as it's wrapped around the actual screw.

    The bow is worthwhile to me, can't read the stamp I think it says Jerome Thoubillaire Lamy. So faint. It's v. Hard Brazilwood octagonal and a decent enough bow to save. For me anyway. Thin pickings to get sorted before I get unable to work.

    Here's some photos. Sorry for the bad quality of them.

    2019_11_18_20_51_34.jpg

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  20. I've read the post you have tagged and I see 2 VERY IMPORTANT big information gaps, which are:-

    1. THE BRASS EYELET AND HOW TO GET THE THING REMOVED FROM AROUND THE SCREW AFTER DRILLING IT AND CRACKING IT IN SITU?

    2. AFTER DRILLING INTO THE ACTUAL SCREW WHICH IS RUSTY AND HAS EXPANDED AND IS IMMOVABLE, AND THE DRILL HAS CUT THE SCREW IN HALF, HOW WAS IT REMOVED?

    Sorry not shouting I just wanted the questions I asked to stand out, for future reference as reading on a small iPhone screen is eye sight unfriendly.

    Thanks everyone x


  21. 10 hours ago, Blank face said:

    To drill out (or better mill out) a frozen adjuster screw is a very difficult action if you don't have experience. Probably you will damage the bow when you are doing it the first time, so better to start practicing with some worthless bows.

    There were several threads about it, a good one is Josh Henry's advice here, and some very good pictures by jonfrohnen:

     

     

    Hi Blank Face luv, thank you for taking time to find that thread. I will read that later when I have cleaned out my fish tank and put a dye on my hair. I digress, lol, yes I know it's very very difficult because I had a go a while back on a bow ending up with drilling into the frog from the slider so the top down into the ebony frog and I got to the old copper eyelet screw, even with a diamond headed drill, it took ages to drill into it to crack it, and the ebony around the drill bit was smoking and it caused a big hole in the frog and some splitting of the frog! Sickening isn't it! I hate those old screws, they were rubbish, to big and too hard metal.

    Thanks for your help x


  22. 13 hours ago, Andreas Preuss said:

    If I understand correctly the button of the screw is off and the screw itself is frozen in the eyelet.

    Inthe worst case the frog has to be opened (as if to make a rehair) and the eyelet has to be drilled out from the other side. 

    Some pics would be good for better advice.

    Hi Pruess, luv. I should have said that there is no frog on the bow in question.

    I do have another violin bow in same condition which DOES have the frog still attached, which is also a very nice violin bow. However I will keep things none confusing and stick to the bow without the frog.

    I will try taking a photo but I stood on my Lumia Phone it's still working but I can't get good enough photos at night. Probably should fix this phone first!