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Everything posted by morgana

  1. Martin, that IS the CORRECT answer, not only your opinion. I stand by you. Mikey hun, I'm in love with you and want a warm milky bedtime story, instead of ego induced endorphine leaden misery about silly sound posts to mask the utterly wonderful nature, cruel, callousness we need to really be at one with each other. Give me a cyber hug you gorgeous man!!! Now damn it!!! Lol! Aww no lets talk nicely and remember the oldies who helped you and me in our entre innocently going into the world of lonely COD obsession with the devils' plaything. We all need a break, and as a message from old Abraham who was a lovely old lad, prophet of pearls worth more than even a broken heart couldn't mend. He said, to cut the shape of the sound post, offer up the back of the violin to an uncut round of spruce, aged and flat, then place it on that back, where the sound post position will be, then draw a line across it's girth after tilting flattened end, with pencil crossed at base of back end. Making sure that the grain of the spruce is at at less than 45 degrees., then turn the post on opposite end and offer it up to the front at that same append in conjunction to that back plate. Then mark the spot in the same way with pencil, draw a line on tilted end, then cut through sharp tool need you. Beforehand also measures made of said post from gauge inserted into right handed F hole to make the size completely correct and mark with a circle a cross inside said instrument, at the only place a pencil will go at the back, you know. Remember to mark the top and bottom as well or only something forgot, ten will be a gravely waster of your time, and put you out of your sure sense of mind. Then cut with a sharp knife across the pencilled marks, be true be bold and make it not blather the edges, a crisp snap is better in long rounds, than miserly short edges. Remember always to work upside down but the cut is sharper than Georgies tongue, and then use a sharpened tongue, with a careful eye as you place it's spiritual gift inside. God Be With You xxx
  2. Exactemonty mine Fuhrer. I agree with everything you say, all the time. Just keep thinking about that vibrating pumping bridge foot allignment tool on youtube. I was erm...oh sorry Jr Levity...I'm going somewhere where we can forget. Georgeenie Weenie, loved by all.. and she's mine All mine. Ha! I think we are entering our Mauve period here. Confused? Me too. Dead Siamese cat. Still upset. But getting drunk now so I hope you and your lovely wife are good xxx
  3. Ta Evan Bobien! You know a good few things and are eloquence of epic proportions and I bow gracefully to you, my Cutie Bach, Bora Da, my little petit fleur, Viv la liberation! Nes pa? Zee hot house is there to keep The rarest orchid, as well as the Venus Fly trap. xxx
  4. I accept your apology, Al, no worries. I'm just finishing work at this ungodly hour, and just have been going through a 16 inch brand new, cheapest of the cheap unbranded which I bought for £38.67 and free shipping from Amazon UK. The reason for buying it was the case and the rosin. The strings, the integral tailpiece. The viola is correct in dimensions, fake purfling, laquered varnish, the fingerboard is maple as is the neck and scroll, the pegs are wood with black dull finish, as is the chinrest, the endpon is ebony! Bizarrely. The top is some kind of real wood, looks like very close grained semi softwood, it's fingerboard is better than some higher end old violins, with correct length arching width, almost and better scoop than I expected. I have wire wooled the fingerboard dyed it again and rubbed it with a bit of renaissance wax, for easier shifting. It's got a sound post! Hooray! And it was a bit wonky at the bottom end so I just pushed it carefully eastwards. I tried to carve the bridge which was a BIG waste of time but you do these things for practice, the bridge is correct sizing for a 16 inch viola 50 mm and I then, after trying to thin it, re shape it, fit feet flush, tried it out. It was slipping, so zI looked to the nut (I had shaped it more rounded as sharp edge to the back, then saw immediately anyway that the notches for the strings where not correctly measured, however I tried it without changing them. That bloody bridge was slipping west. I played it and it sounded like a dog. So I corrected the spaces on the nut, no, still crap sound and shifting. I then found a bridge from a 15 inch viola, of which was only 48 mm and much better hard maple, shorter in height, the feet fit exactly which was lucky. OMG that viola actually sounds very good. Not the same viola! It's powerful, resonant, wonderfully dynamic and even though it needs to be a bit higher on the G string it is so much better. I have learned from all of that work that as long as everything on the instrument is correct in terms of weight, depth etc. The soundpost will not make sense to adjust unless you go through everything else that corresponds with that certain instrument, even if it is a mass produced one. Meaning that everything made is not exactly the same so judgment on just changing a sound post, after many years of believing that it alone, can do wonders for the tone, well, the sound post needs adressing within all other considerations. I long suspected this trouble and have now realised that all of the sound posts in the world won't make much difference unless they aren't there or are broken, twisted ill fitted, or made of straw ir prawns. Anyway, just to add on, that a decent sound post is one made from spruce, and aged and if anyone carves their own sound post or uses a machine to shape it, I congratulate you if you are good at whittling a circular dowel. A sound post gauge is a really needed tool. Because it gives you a chance at a fair contour each end and length too. Some old violins have a mark made by someone who either made said violin, or had set a sound post in thedaus gone by, on the back inside with a circle or even a gauze cloth cut round and glued in. Everyone I have seen seems to be further back and more east, as in to the curved edge right hand side, which seems too far back, when reading standard fitting instructions by divers luthiers, restorers, doctors, hypnotherapists and knicker wearing constables. An F hole, is a maker's showpiece of intricate carving, scraping and aesthetics of grave importance, so if someone comes out of the primordial sludge asks you to fiddle with his sound post, as his Del Gesu isn't sounding as good as it should then tell them, I will check your instrument out now preliminarily, and see if it could be something else after inspection. Then check for too tight, too loose, crack, bulging, soundpost shrinkage, neck gravity, either downward or upward, play the thing, then maybe you can actually know how to deal with customers which is 90 percent of running a viable business rather than the Victorian waffle spoken by cranks who also think that insulting people is the way to actually get the benefit of their custom. Explaining that in a way the average lay person understands, concisely, and actually multi tasking is the direction to become adequate and useful in this passionate niche business. Jimmy Hendrix, have you been experienced, well I. HAVE. Still working at it. Still gorgeous too. My fluffy kitten needs a cuddle now and I need to annoy my neighbours by playing my cheap viola. The thing is, ppl these days buy these instruments and think they will be all right just setting the bridge up, tightening the strings and then moaning cos their bow doesn't work. Try ABC easy as 123. Spoonfed ppl feed my pussycat.The Rosin goes on the bow by ruffing it up and rubbing up and down the bow hair after tightening the end screw. Aaaaggghh! Jeffrey, I'm sorry but I am fed up with spoon feeding players on here now. But I am grateful for the ones who have gone to great trouble to help me. Love Ya! XXX
  5. I was trying to diffuse the fighting with humour. I am no bot, and you need to understand that you ask questions and then try answering your own questions instead of actually reading other people's advise, replies. Please don't speak like this to me again I thank you. A strong metal coat hanger is useful for the task, as I have utilized this method. As long as it's definitely hard enough metal not to bend much, okay? Have a great day! Xxx
  6. Jackson I protest. You are a sataristical fibber! If you took me in the back, staring, yes...drinking...yes, but not out of the window. No position unattainable after a swift slurp! I like coffee I like tea, I like a Vodka and you can not not like me, he Lol! Sorry for being so in love with me, I understand XXX
  7. Hello, am I invisible? Have I ceased to exist? Also, why does there have to be nastiness again? Stop fighting or Georgie will smack, she will smack! I've made and set sound posts to around 800 violins some of mine which I made, and needless to say, so I will, have shed blood, swore, prayed, cried, and effed up a few F holes, by being crap and amateur in those dark, lonely cheerless hours, learning how to not give up and just go down the pub and have a fight, BTW, those S shaped sound post setters, in my opinion, and bitter experience are too wide for violin F holes. They are fine for big violas say 16 inch violas upwards in size. I tried that clasping one and it's also a pain in the arse. String is stupid and pointless to the point of ridiculous proportions for setting in a sound post. If your sound post has fallen down and needs re setting, and you have never re set one back in and you are not near a violin repairer, but you have to play the violin, viola whatever. Maybe you ARE one of those rare creatures, hardly seen in the open, especially in the daylight, mainly kept in captivity now, a violin player, which get's it's money for playing music well enough to actually get paid real money for playing (rare enough) and your Guarneri's sound post, fell, in a bizarre set of circumstances involving a projectile vomiting violin playing creature, in a cyber café close by Notre Dam, on the very day before it was burnt down in a mystery blaze, who had chosen the precise moment when you opened your violin case, taken out your precious fiddle to finger practice Mahler, when the full force of the prawn, oh and carrot infested sick spurged with hurricane force issued from said fellow creature's mandibles, through your F hole, with resultant sound post dislodgment...hmmm. Bit of a sticky situation and, as Shakespeare said, before being pelted with rotten tomatoes at the Globe, and quoteth I, The Bard, "What do you bloody well mean! not too far fetched." The Audience, retorting, "Oh yes it is!" Quothe I The Bard, "Oh no it's not!" Which we all know became extremely popular AND the standard comedy routine used worldwide (and on Maestronet quite a bit too much)... Now where was I? Quell Ca Chouse, ooo eh la sichuaaachioneh? Eh le mantanant la coat hanger, wire of course Mai wee! Also la cutting tool of zee choice, zee metal snipper cutters. twist de metal, snip wiz ze cutters, shape de la coat hanger to an elongated S shape...use de sharp cut end as zee proder of zee prone naughty, sicky post, Dans la position air mae wee afterwards of zee cleaning Dans la Guarneri.. Ou e la prod la twist insertionay Dans la eff hole of la right hand side oui? Ya, then, shwoosh, slide upwards twist, stick a la post Dans eh la positionaire profound, a la oop! Bon! Perfecioneh!! Eh! ! Magnefique! Merci, merci you are too kind.
  8. A sound post should be slanted towards the bridge foot slightly as in 3 degrees from perpendicular to the bottom of the sound post and less than 6mm thickness of the sound post with the grain of the wood 33 degrees of angle against the grain of the top plate, if it sits underneath the back of the bridge foot towards middle and not too tight, it will vibrate in unison with both backwards and side ways motion rather than a raspy sound, which comes from hard wooden sound posts too thin and too tight, it will sound much clearer, project best and will brighten up the sound. And dynamics will respond better due to the correct pressure of the post connection between the two plates. Also in bigger instruments like the viola it stops buzzing on the C string. Do it when on medication or if you're into Sadistic self harm....
  9. Hi everyone, I have 10 Gut strings, unused with the red silk ties on them.They are all sealed in the original wax paper pouches. I've got 110 left. They are exeptionally good, in perfect condition and tied properly. They have been tested out by me and other Philharmonic players who have had a good many passed around. Anyway if you want any before the lot go, get in touch with me via pm I am in Liverpool England but can post photos are attached. They are long enough also to get 2 lengths and they are still with extra length even halved! Bargain hunting baroque players welcome as well as mandolinists, guitar players who use gut strings, and the tone is very clear and presice. I can post securely xxx Georgina Walker
  10. Metal endpins unless buffered by a rubber stopper are one big vibrating nuicance and cause the bottom block to break too, so that I know from being around cellists. They like not getting a Pirastro A in their face, or the great greasing up as well as various other nightmares like seam splitsting due to tensile pressure, cases too small, no case fits a big cello with deep ribs. However the price is ridiculous. It's not justifyable, like string prices. And how does it stop upward outward distorsion. It's an endpon, no matter what it's made of. Not a supporting block, or a self cleating cellophane insert. That's my bag by the way so hands off, I have patented it...and it works.
  11. Jacob, luv, that violin is really lovely. Isn't that the weirdest happening! I mean, the odds on your violin being sold back to you from a house clearing stranger to you make me feel like taking up gambling! And believing that a quid on a 100 to one bet in the 4 oclock will win. And that there are aliens and that I am one. And that strange things happen for a reason not sure about the chances of me actually selling a violin, now that IS too far fetched, even so, I wonder what happened to the owner of your violin? Xxx
  12. The O P doesn't want a "fiddle" Jacob luv, he wants a violin lol only joking with you luv, your violins or fiddles are very lovely and very well constructed and carved out with expertise and, truth saying, your varnish is coming along very very well. Honest Injun here, I'd Love to play some of your violins. Xxx
  13. I have fello makers and restorers in Liverpool UK. I sold my cello, I restored to a fellow luthier, Jan Shelley. If you want I can get it off him and sell it to you. I wanted it back for a while now. He says he will sell it back to me for £500. As he has worked on it himself after buying it for a pittance from myself. It's very well worth the price as it's had top notch restoration on it. It's a Galliano. More likely not. More likely a Florenzian from late 1700s. I don't really think I can play cello. I can't but on that cello I can. What upsets me is that I would love to get it back off him for myself as just restored a Tourte cello bow, and I spent so ling on the cello. It's big. Very easy to play and it took me many months of day in day out restoration. No back cracks, however, the centre seem had to be drawn back together, the neck was broken and Jeffrey Holmes, as well as others told me how to repair it successfully and I managed to do so. If this is worthwhile me keeping I would but I don't have time to become a cellust, shamefully. I would love that instrument back though myself. So it is good. Very good. Ya!
  14. I think her cello looks very good. Anything looks good in black and white though so it's not being funny it's just that it would be better in colour.
  15. I know David. I should be on show at The Albert Hall...actually, I am going back to work. No, not selling on eBay, but playing either violin or viola. Maybe both, female multi tasking doesn't stretch to the ability of successfully playing a violin and viola at the same time. I'm available for weddings, funerals, Christenings, public houses, train stations, oh yes, orchestras, folking folk bands, The BBC...maybe not that last one. Just to make it very clear I do not involve myself with playing Mahler.
  16. No! Talent has to come with concienciousness, dilugence, determination, passion, hard bloody work and, what men hate, but grow into human beings by. Failure.
  17. Nice one, Viola luv, some really stupid, dangerous lads out there. On here too. When do men grow up? Not one. But male cat ladies do, usually by being caught out by their women and dumped. or messing about on here! Lol!
  18. The difference between them is that many anecdotes and stories and facts are missing. I know because the original was in the William Brown Library, in Liverpool. I read it and he really knew alot about Stradivari's homes and quoted from certain people who where around. Such as The Bergonsi family, and other sources like parish record office paperwork he was very happy to quote apparently ver batum, regarding the sad, criminal act of his remains being egsumed from The Catholic church, can't remember the name, for heresy, because he was not a good, in that parish's eyes, man, so also about his time in Florence, and the place catching fire the roof, and him being burnt very severely, trying to save his varnished instruments, also his children and wife receiving burns, some first degree burns, as the roof top was of thatch, he says that Stradivari lost a child to that fire. And saved most of ninety or so instruments. I should have kept that book as the wisdom and unscrupulous behaviour of our library of rare documents suffered from exploitation too. poor Stradivari He was convinced I read, also of Stradivari's infamous ground, was obsessed with his belief it was albumen, animal fat and mineral ground to seal the pores, stiffen the wood and honey was mentioned but he was not sure enough as he became rather confused at times over specifics, regarding the use of fish glue, and then he was more confusing regarding templates of various dimensions so, well, I should like to see that original reprinted book, as he seems to believe that Stradivari was a double edged character. He was convinced that he was not treated fairly by his fraternity, nor the Florence influences and the woods, and practices he used, in build quality, Sacconi desperately hangs his hat with as to Stradivari's singularly perfectionism in every detail of everything that made those Florentine instruments thicknesses breadth and depth, of the quality which was made so very very highest level craftpersonship. A Good read. I'd say, Saconni knew maybe the most about the man.
  19. Hi Bill, luv. I reckon you are right. It's so against the back end of mortice, I reckon a soft solder iron is in order. I'm busy cleaning up my house, as well as varnish finishing 2 violins, in this damp weather, and being disabled (not moaning, just saying) I am busy as a very busy bee. So, I reckon to put heat against the thing, then tap hammer it forwards angle to break it as the brass is quite thin, though brass is hard enough to need a good heat at weakest point. Once that thing is off using a good quick few taps, it'll shatter, then I can drill cut the actual swine, the angle against the end at 68 degrees, plenty of hard padding. Heat will just cause more swelling of the carbined steel so best angle tap see if it frees a bit and use a baring hard steel inserted into the angled drilled hole in the screw at 55 degree and it's going to cool down first, then tap it force it slowly towards coming out of it's jamming position, then as soon as you can feel it freeing, it'll come good outright twist at end.
  20. Whilst cleaning out my fish again full of cold me so v. Tired. I know that drilling into the screw is a stupid overkill, even with the brass eyelet out of the equation, it's going to be too hard to get through that solid steel. However, I have an embryonic idea. If I get a purchase on the screw after heat drilling at it's weakest point whilst wrapping it around the mortice with masking tape, like a buffering cradle, then wrapping stiffening sticks, to support the actual underneath of the stick at mortice and putting it in the hair jig. Then after I drill, or tip end soldering, get a 68 degree angle cut against the weak twine screw deep enough, I can maybe, using Bills advice on moving the screw down the mortice, with tap hammering, using a, well a tap hammer and a smal finely honed flat ended screw driver at that angle to see if the screw can be tempted to shift towards the exit of the stick end! If I can jolt itself towards without the encumbrance that's the trouble causer:- the brass eyelet which needs removing due to it's proximity inhibitating position but end against edge of end mortice channel then I can go to the top of the class, well A for effort anyway. Then I can get on with sleep food and actually finding the effin frog....AaaaaH!!!!! Then cuddling my fur kitten. And I will do it with photos too. So in the future if some poor, barstard who doesn't deserve to be given this situation, never caused trouble for anyone, always looked after others, never swore on purpose, or set fire to cats, went to church, Synagogue or Mosk, loved and cared for his or her mummy, daddy, sisters brothers, ferrets, whippets, hedgehogs, who wrpt at Lassie films, and apologised for everything doesn't end up in a high security mental hospital for the criminally insane, after this attempt, then God be blessed.
  21. Brad, luv that's the trouble, it's stuck with the wood tight as nun's corset, and the wood is very hard Brazilian and very slim in radius. I've written on here to you Bill luv, but I am being moderated so its not gone public yet. X
  22. Hi Bill luv, so sorry for being thick but what do you mean by a small abrasive wheel? Also, do you mean using it to cut actually through the brass eyelet until it has a parallel groove enough into it's side, then, with the flat headed small screwdriver, insert that into it and twist a quarter to actually split the brass eyelet, or loosen it so I can de thread it by its top bit to basically let it out of it's screw threaded eye, so then move it away from the but end position, enabling the screw itself to be extracted from it's rusted in solidly rusted in situation where it has no way of coming out without either hollow drilling into the wood or then soaking it in vinegar, and then clamping it and twisting it from into the mortise chamber? I think I might be missing a lot of brain cells lol! Will that screw come out without breaking it apart? Or tap hammering it out in the mortice using a lot of padding? Should I use oil, should I use heat, should I use vinegar? Should I just keep tap hammering it carefully like until the screw shifts down shaft towards the end so then extracate its protruding end with pliers twisting outwards carefully?
  23. No Brad luv, I've done gone been there as the photo shows. I mean NOT drilling in at the end. I mean at the screw it self after getting rid of the brass eyelet screw from around the main steel screw then drilling, I mean drilling using as was said, a dentist drill bit on my rotary drill to break the screw, or, seeing as said to just leave brass eyelet, and break as just said using a dentist drill on dremel and break the screw at the closest position without marring the screw so as to twist off brass eyelet, as it is moveable as I said, from side to side on screw thread, not towards or backwards along the screw. So if I can break the screw cleanly, I hope to get the eyelet off of the screw at the break, then able to remove the embedded foward end towards the nipple end of the bow. Then remove the remaining part embedded in the upper end of the mortice using above said process. Or processes without splitting the actual stick at the nipple inside end, which at the moment is not split, however I have seen so many bows which have split due to twisting a frog around with stuck screw and eyelet. Then I will put up photos as doing it. I'm going to set aside a day for doing this and photographs of it, as well as tools, explaining the process as I am doing it. It's helpful chaps like you that can show me, and give me the help needed to attempt with care, this procedure, then the remedial work to tidy up my mess of my first mistakes as in, asking about it and understanding. Cheers, lads a chicks xxx
  24. Stradivari used rotten wood, but violins are and were made up from different woods