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Everything posted by morgana

  1. Hi Bill, luv. I reckon you are right. It's so against the back end of mortice, I reckon a soft solder iron is in order. I'm busy cleaning up my house, as well as varnish finishing 2 violins, in this damp weather, and being disabled (not moaning, just saying) I am busy as a very busy bee. So, I reckon to put heat against the thing, then tap hammer it forwards angle to break it as the brass is quite thin, though brass is hard enough to need a good heat at weakest point. Once that thing is off using a good quick few taps, it'll shatter, then I can drill cut the actual swine, the angle against the end at 68 degrees, plenty of hard padding. Heat will just cause more swelling of the carbined steel so best angle tap see if it frees a bit and use a baring hard steel inserted into the angled drilled hole in the screw at 55 degree and it's going to cool down first, then tap it force it slowly towards coming out of it's jamming position, then as soon as you can feel it freeing, it'll come good outright twist at end.
  2. Whilst cleaning out my fish again full of cold me so v. Tired. I know that drilling into the screw is a stupid overkill, even with the brass eyelet out of the equation, it's going to be too hard to get through that solid steel. However, I have an embryonic idea. If I get a purchase on the screw after heat drilling at it's weakest point whilst wrapping it around the mortice with masking tape, like a buffering cradle, then wrapping stiffening sticks, to support the actual underneath of the stick at mortice and putting it in the hair jig. Then after I drill, or tip end soldering, get a 68 degree angle cut against the weak twine screw deep enough, I can maybe, using Bills advice on moving the screw down the mortice, with tap hammering, using a, well a tap hammer and a smal finely honed flat ended screw driver at that angle to see if the screw can be tempted to shift towards the exit of the stick end! If I can jolt itself towards without the encumbrance that's the trouble causer:- the brass eyelet which needs removing due to it's proximity inhibitating position but end against edge of end mortice channel then I can go to the top of the class, well A for effort anyway. Then I can get on with sleep food and actually finding the effin frog....AaaaaH!!!!! Then cuddling my fur kitten. And I will do it with photos too. So in the future if some poor, barstard who doesn't deserve to be given this situation, never caused trouble for anyone, always looked after others, never swore on purpose, or set fire to cats, went to church, Synagogue or Mosk, loved and cared for his or her mummy, daddy, sisters brothers, ferrets, whippets, hedgehogs, who wrpt at Lassie films, and apologised for everything doesn't end up in a high security mental hospital for the criminally insane, after this attempt, then God be blessed.
  3. Brad, luv that's the trouble, it's stuck with the wood tight as nun's corset, and the wood is very hard Brazilian and very slim in radius. I've written on here to you Bill luv, but I am being moderated so its not gone public yet. X
  4. Hi Bill luv, so sorry for being thick but what do you mean by a small abrasive wheel? Also, do you mean using it to cut actually through the brass eyelet until it has a parallel groove enough into it's side, then, with the flat headed small screwdriver, insert that into it and twist a quarter to actually split the brass eyelet, or loosen it so I can de thread it by its top bit to basically let it out of it's screw threaded eye, so then move it away from the but end position, enabling the screw itself to be extracted from it's rusted in solidly rusted in situation where it has no way of coming out without either hollow drilling into the wood or then soaking it in vinegar, and then clamping it and twisting it from into the mortise chamber? I think I might be missing a lot of brain cells lol! Will that screw come out without breaking it apart? Or tap hammering it out in the mortice using a lot of padding? Should I use oil, should I use heat, should I use vinegar? Should I just keep tap hammering it carefully like until the screw shifts down shaft towards the end so then extracate its protruding end with pliers twisting outwards carefully?
  5. No Brad luv, I've done gone been there as the photo shows. I mean NOT drilling in at the end. I mean at the screw it self after getting rid of the brass eyelet screw from around the main steel screw then drilling, I mean drilling using as was said, a dentist drill bit on my rotary drill to break the screw, or, seeing as said to just leave brass eyelet, and break as just said using a dentist drill on dremel and break the screw at the closest position without marring the screw so as to twist off brass eyelet, as it is moveable as I said, from side to side on screw thread, not towards or backwards along the screw. So if I can break the screw cleanly, I hope to get the eyelet off of the screw at the break, then able to remove the embedded foward end towards the nipple end of the bow. Then remove the remaining part embedded in the upper end of the mortice using above said process. Or processes without splitting the actual stick at the nipple inside end, which at the moment is not split, however I have seen so many bows which have split due to twisting a frog around with stuck screw and eyelet. Then I will put up photos as doing it. I'm going to set aside a day for doing this and photographs of it, as well as tools, explaining the process as I am doing it. It's helpful chaps like you that can show me, and give me the help needed to attempt with care, this procedure, then the remedial work to tidy up my mess of my first mistakes as in, asking about it and understanding. Cheers, lads a chicks xxx
  6. Stradivari used rotten wood, but violins are and were made up from different woods
  7. Really? I find that the great unwashed can see crap when they see it and want the best. If you look at fancy photos, it's still obviously obvious that a newly handmade violin with superior looks takes a blink of the eyes to see reality and quality, compared to obvious Chinese junk.
  8. Sorry David luv, not to answer you till now. Yes, you are right, in little Britain ppl breed cats, dogs, instead of selling crack, being taxi drivers or going on the sick benefits. I'm not blaming them at all, this Island nation has lost it's ability to construct, mainly because construction was lucrative in the wars, so Scotland lost steel making, warship construction and Napiers fine gun metal workers, mining operations finished due to using atom splitting nuclear power plants. I think we have 4 nuclear plants. Selafield 1 and 2, can't remember the others, all completely overtaking electricity supplies formerly using gas oil reserves of which offshore we have plenty of reserves, our oil rigs churn out tonnes every second, natural gas, offshore still doing a healthy profit. Liverpool is the chief import exporters in the EU. We export and import a third of all international goods, including live animals (horrendously btw). Haleeood branch of the RSPCA was closed down this April/May. It held thousands of dogs, cats, horses, ponies, wildlife, and was shut down because of government funding and issues of animal welfare. Thousands of strays, lost, dogs, cats, unwanted kittens, where kept alive and that was horrendous it closing, as the staff lost their jobs, as they took in any living animal and had a programme with the PDSA to give poor people free neutering's and money tokens for free inoculation of any pet, so vets associated with and who worked with them also lost their pittance paid money. If you can imagine the scale of number of deaths of animals there because of local council thieves who control everything and we pay higher council tax than Londoners. The ever funless imaginary world of New Labour. We have internment camps for illegal immigrants who survive the journey only to be beaten up. Good on you and your sister Carol is a good girl. Xxx
  9. Thanks Mike and Bill luvs. I will have a go at that. My problem is that I am searching fomu tools, bits, bobs odds and ends, because of having work done in my house, so I had everything in boxes. So cannot find the things I need, like sooo many dremel ends and then Irush, don't prepare, as I used to by getting everything I need or may need, clsmpings, preperation as you all know is so important rather than fanny around. See, that partially destroyed eyelet screw moves sideways, hence, needing a willing victim with hands to trust me to hold with pliers, as I drill using your tips of how to do it, get that damned eyelet screw out of the situation. Once that has been exhumed from causing more damage to the outer edges of the mortice, then drilling v carefully into that screw will be about do able. The less damage from my idiocy and gung ho anger is to listen to you who know. Ta luvs. Also, Thanks for putting up with me. I've been really ill and violent ex. Broke my arm 4 times, my hip smashed. Thanks for your help xxx
  10. Ahhh, I'm very sorry for your loss. Loud Willy! Lol! Great name, meezes are very loud mouthed but they purr like an engine, it's very therapeutic. This Sooty character is very purry, furry and I rescued him too. Glad you are a cat lady too. Xxx Jerry P, and Josh Hernry, I've heard of him, thanks Dwight luv for the links. Here's my Poppy who I rescued too. I can't believe she's still gone. I used in read to her in bed.
  11. Hi Evan, luv. I know I would like to ask you for advice but, I would rather not. I know how to finish a violin as well as start, middle and er nd but I am not sure yet that you would stick your neck out and put examples are your crafting of a violin and it's varnishing up. I am a woman and have. So here goes. As long as ppl put a colourless varnish to give depth to the underlying wood figure, and the carving is not bloated by coloured varnishing and, that the micro millimetres of layers, give everything depth and translucency within the under layers, then your eyes are deceived until someone goes and slaps some French polish, or rubs out the chanteuse of seeing coloured layers as a homogeneous depth, well, basically if everyone wants to know what to put on top of their coloured layers, just plainly speaking with respect, if you want a piano, then rub out the final layer and use button polish. If not, use oil based yellow Damar based oil varnish. Don't rub it out. Leave it to dry slowly with plenty of air. Apply with a varnish sponge. It keeps your important wood finishing skills intact and if you don't mind, stop slagging off me and women. Okay? I will post a photo of my finish in detail just to prove that I am worthwhile maybe listening to without being attacked. I actually make violins you know luv. X
  12. From China? Or red maple? One piece backs from red maple aren't easy to carve unless they are softened. They tend to split, if dried out. I tried carving a piece from Canada off someone and it was no use, it bit down my tools very quickly and needed a wooden chisel hammer for everything. It's like working against the grain and too tough, waste of time. Maple or Sycamore is dependant on softness against hardness isn't it? If it's well moisture content without being soaked okay, it's still brittle. And ruins tone. I have some Fine Cut logs tight sized but as the tree was being topped slowly, bit by bit Brough down. It's split naturally outwards from it's heart. I'd rather that it will be a two piece back than a one piece shattered backed in the future.
  13. Hi Dorian luv, I did ages ago but went on here to try and find a thread concerning soaking hardwood in anything and was warnings, I did and I panicked and got it out and ran away with fear as it distorted as if you can see that at the titsy end, now buggered up of the bow. Can't I just get my dremel and an attachment drill head behind the eyelet screw as it's right up against the end of the already marred mortice? And burr into it at angle with using buffers of shamgered aluminium tin can lid thingys I have made. They are great. Tubbs swore by them, then hit someone else if it went wrong, fell out of the pub, and cuddled his shop cat or bundle of horses hair, dependant on how drunk he was lol! X photo of the head. It's a hammer head, it's nicely cut, sorry again about the photo. Its sharper cut thsn it looks on the picture.
  14. Snow violins which where sold on eBay years ago I bought two, first one sounded good and played almost perfectly but was very graduated, thinly, had a paper layer of coloured spray type varnish and the maker died I was told. I sold them for £250, both. They are great as long as you realise that this maker, is dead. Long gone. V. Sad. Mean it, I am not being sarcastic at all. He was the raised grain, making teaching master. They had everything apart from the weight, depth and fullness of tone.
  15. And if we buy it, whether or not to varnish already off the shelf or billets, I would hate to think that anyone cutting down ancient forests would not be crushed to death by a freak accident, you understand that comments are not taken with senses of humour by ppl on here. You know...You have to not be cryptic in a pathos enriched comment. Just buy my wood. It's real...wood.
  16. I tried as you can see, by drilling and damaged the edges of the mortice. Oh well its only some cheap rubbish bow, so who cares. I can keep it to play twinkle twinkle little star. I wonder if I try taking photos in daylight, I can get a better shot. I am getting a new phone at end of this month so better photos.
  17. Hi Dwight luv, who is Jerry Pasewicz? Sorry for my ignorance of this man. BTW I see you have a Siamese fur baby. How gorgeous. Have you still got him or her? My Meez Poppy, was run over 4 months ago by my next door neighbour. I am still devastated. Siamese cats are SO loving and loyal and intelligent, sensitive fur lovers. Back to this bow. I've made a mess of it. I seen to have completely lost it lately. I don't know! I asked about getting the brass eyeletted screw holder out as it's wrapped around the actual screw. The bow is worthwhile to me, can't read the stamp I think it says Jerome Thoubillaire Lamy. So faint. It's v. Hard Brazilwood octagonal and a decent enough bow to save. For me anyway. Thin pickings to get sorted before I get unable to work. Here's some photos. Sorry for the bad quality of them.
  18. I've read the post you have tagged and I see 2 VERY IMPORTANT big information gaps, which are:- 1. THE BRASS EYELET AND HOW TO GET THE THING REMOVED FROM AROUND THE SCREW AFTER DRILLING IT AND CRACKING IT IN SITU? 2. AFTER DRILLING INTO THE ACTUAL SCREW WHICH IS RUSTY AND HAS EXPANDED AND IS IMMOVABLE, AND THE DRILL HAS CUT THE SCREW IN HALF, HOW WAS IT REMOVED? Sorry not shouting I just wanted the questions I asked to stand out, for future reference as reading on a small iPhone screen is eye sight unfriendly. Thanks everyone x
  19. Hi Blank Face luv, thank you for taking time to find that thread. I will read that later when I have cleaned out my fish tank and put a dye on my hair. I digress, lol, yes I know it's very very difficult because I had a go a while back on a bow ending up with drilling into the frog from the slider so the top down into the ebony frog and I got to the old copper eyelet screw, even with a diamond headed drill, it took ages to drill into it to crack it, and the ebony around the drill bit was smoking and it caused a big hole in the frog and some splitting of the frog! Sickening isn't it! I hate those old screws, they were rubbish, to big and too hard metal. Thanks for your help x
  20. Hi Pruess, luv. I should have said that there is no frog on the bow in question. I do have another violin bow in same condition which DOES have the frog still attached, which is also a very nice violin bow. However I will keep things none confusing and stick to the bow without the frog. I will try taking a photo but I stood on my Lumia Phone it's still working but I can't get good enough photos at night. Probably should fix this phone first!
  21. Hi everyone, I can't find anything to attach to my drill that can get this screw that is solidly jammed in a violin bow I have. It's a decent octagonal violin bow full size but very tiny end nipple. Nothing will shift it and it's old, end button snapped off to the hilt flush to the nipple. I don't want to damage it. It also has the eyelet still attached broken down to the point where it meats the round screw eyelet itself and is extremely hard metal, brass. Any help appreciated.
  22. I understand Jeffrey. I'm sorry for any insults and arguments towards members on here. I will behave myself. xxx
  23. It seems I am not allowed to post. Can I not post anything anymore then? I'm being moderated. I feel very sad that this forum has become so wicked. I defend myself that is all. Others are allowed to post comments of the most vile kind and they are given free reign so why do I get moderated for good?
  24. I like the cello. That's the investment instrument. What is the sleeper? Gagliano? Oh well I wouldn't want to buy sight unseen with a single Tarisio expert piece of paper if I wanted to invest in a collectable, made by a faker. I'd like to go there just for the crack. And to actually get out of the house and have a browse, some booze, nevermind, it's bingo that night....
  25. Hi luv, I've got aged willow rib linings. And they are no way rubbish And can be soaked and do not split. Very old British willow. Dense. I can tell you how to clamp them and how to make the clamps. Honestly, making the clamps is better than clothes pegs. If inserting into c bout corner blocks, just a bit of a pain, cos you have to get them made first. Easy job, once learnt on a cross quarter piece of corner block. In En gg land made from right grain willow wood too. Saltwd boiled water to soak the rib linings, a router drill bit on a drill, or be posh and buy junk like a sremel and spend a year or years working out how to attach bits to it. Bloody nighmare, best use a regular old hand drill attached 45 degrees to a workmate bench. Anyway, a fine saw will do insertion easiest. Just be careful of over edging within the rib oe you will have a Strad built piece of junk lil! Pm me hunny. X