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Guido

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  1. … not buying anything at auction. Yeah, right.
  2. Says the size is L, won't fit me anyways. I'm always amazed at these contrived family/ musician/ heirloom violins that have always been played (without bow).
  3. I have a contemporary Brazilian bow and apart form the maker's stamp in the usual place I noticed this little one here on the bottom facet (see pic). Anyone know what this may signify? Just curious as I have now come across the same mark on another Brazilian bow by a different maker
  4. Silver is obviously heavier than whalebone, but: - there are different gauges of silver wire in use (don't know what's on your bow), and the weight also depends on the length of the lapping and what happens under the leather. - you can use a thin lead band under the leather to compensate for the lighter whalebone and try to match the current balance. I would use the current handling as a benchmark, and if the bow is just perfect as is, I would certainly not do anything... lapping is transient and a plastic whalebone doesn't make it a museum piece.
  5. On this forum bad new is always enthusiastically dished out, and people rather say nothing than something good. Mind the silence. You should have that violin checked out properly. I'm with chrissweden though; it's story looks like the equivalent of having a campfire inside your living room, oblivious to the damage you do to your house, or the fact that houses may have some value.
  6. The dots are all over the wood. I think we are not looking at a “print” but there must be an other issue with similar result.
  7. What would I measure and what sort of margin would I look for? Something like: a post fitted symmetrical to the bar and clearing the crack by x?
  8. Based on the above, my first one to try would be Amber, and then I'd also try a Dominant weich (which has surprised me more than once).
  9. I was leaning that way, too...
  10. I know, I know, if you call something a sound post crack or not depends on whether you are selling or buying. I'm just wondering from a repair perspective. Plaster Cast & Co. or just a couple of cleats? The violin would be worth the effort of a SP patch, but if it doesn't look necessary, of course I'd be happy to avoid it. What do you think?
  11. I don't have the violin, can't check anything over, or take more photos. If a discussion of those pics alone isn't going anywhere then that's fine, too. Just thought this style of Stainer model looks rather Klotz-ish, incl. the ffs, the head, and maybe even the varnish/ wear. Narrow pegbox at the a-peg another feature visible here...?
  12. Does this look like a good Mittenwald violin from the 18th century? This is a purely academic question for me.
  13. Looks like the neck was screwed on from the outside diagonally down from the finger board gluing surface, and the screw would have been hidden when the fingerboard was glued on. This feature was discussed on this forum before and associated with some English makers if I remember correctly. Can't recall further particulars, maybe someone else can.
  14. Tarisio (and T2) are very professional. probably what some would consider the industry standard. At tarisio, items are often sold as "by" with the auction house' reputation on the line - they are very careful, and very reputable. Buying there is in many ways close to or better than retail (minus the after-sales service). T2 does not make attribution. Generally items offered are speculative in nature, or need (sometimes extensive) restoration. It is meant to be a platform for the trade where knowledgeable buyers/ dealers get their stock. Labels are mostly to be disregarded, and condition issues are often underestimated. If you think every violin with a Roth label is a Roth you should not shop at t2. Or if you ask if t2 is not as reputable it shows that you shouldn't shop there.
  15. I've got a surprisingly similar looking thing (violin) currently sitting in the scrap wood box (but not yet cut up). In terms of origin, mine doesn't fit with anything I know. Any chance you got cleats on the back centre seam? Yours has just like mine a super shallow neck mortice in the upper block. Maybe someone can put a region and time to that practice?
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