Guido

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  1. The antiquing looks rather screwdriver-ish.
  2. Finally someone talking sense. If $25k is a reasonable retail price, then $3-5k IS NOT a commensurate auction price. The view of the violins authenticity has OBVIOUSLY changed between the two listings; and one may reasonably assume that Metzler wouldn't have asked Tariso alone. Chances are they asked more than one auction house and may well have tried to get it certified but failed. Given this development, logic suggests that the violin is most definitely not a real Doetsch (and that has nothing to do with T2 being T2, or whatever other unrelated thoughts have been produced). That's just brilliant. Anyone got some fake modern Italians? Just take them to a reputable dealer and ask them to sell them as real ones with associated price tag. Just because you say so. Now that's how it works. It the view on authenticity would not have changed, they could have dumped it at auction for $10-15k, not $3-5k.
  3. I find that very interesting for a number of reasons and though other might, too. Here are a few thoughts: 1. Should you be interested in a speculative purchase of this violin at T2 you now know: it's most certainly fake. 2. I don't know if Metzler is (or was) in the category of "reputable dealer". If so, buyer beware. Independent certificates are soooo important (isn't that a great message, Martin?) 3. The good news is that nobody has bought it from Metzler for $25 and they seem to be willing to take Tarisio's lead and accept that its probably fake. Good on them.
  4. Here at T2: https://t2-auctions.com/auctions/lot/?cpid=3580346368&csid=2199076864 and here and Metzler Violins: http://metzlerviolins.com/michael-doetsch-violin-berlin-germany-1921/dp/29618 Same violin. Mmmmm.
  5. I wouldn't spray anything on it. Just leave as is. Or, if you really have to, do some French polishing (shellac) over it to seal. You get all you need in a hardware store.
  6. umm... different... instrument
  7. I had a similar case. Found it quite convenient to soak out the bass bar and use it again. Takes one or two days of keeping the paper towel moist.
  8. You can use your cast but should “correct” it by scraping or sanding the crack areas level. if you go to a repair of this degree you might also make mention of the step: clean the cracks. That’ll deserve some effort.
  9. You might consider to soak out the bass bar and use it again.
  10. See above. A Markneukirchen trade violin possibly from the 1920s. Looks like it may have a bass bar crack which could be cost-prohibitive to fix properly. The bow looks very interesting (from a distance) - and could be worth quite a bit of money.
  11. Guido

    ID. German violin

    I have tried few things with gut strings, Toro, Aquila, and ordered from stringking… now I'm back on Chorda mostly (shame on me). However, the standard Chordas are intended to be tuned at 440Hz. If you tune to a lower 'baroque' pitch, you'll want to try the heavy gauge Chordas. Also, I found the effect of different rosins to be greater than the effect of different stings (or brands). You may find this interesting:
  12. I generally like Warchal strings but for viola have only tried the Karneols so far (on a 16" viola). I was reluctant with my small viola as the Warchal strings seem to come in what I would call 'long' and 'extra long', at least according to the sting length recommendation on their package! The shorter ones still seem to be geared towards a standard 16" viola.
  13. I'm also trying to find the right strings for a small viola. Would you mind sharing, as an example, what is on the Vuillaume, or which strings might be a good staring point for a small viola in your experience?
  14. As for the outside mold rib joints: A. If they are pinched, can they be distinguished from a BOB construction? B. If they are mitred with the joint line in the c-bout, can they be distinguished from inside mold construction?
  15. It's been measured as part of ct scans. I've seen the Del Gesu Kreisler in a report stated as 1.875 Mass.