MikeV

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  1. Thank you for the details, looks like it's not a trivial repair. The estimate is much appreciated.
  2. Pretty nice condition otherwise. It's a midgrade instrument with nice wood. Unknown maker.
  3. Would this crack require top removal? Ball park cost?
  4. MikeV

    ID a revarnish?

    How can you tell it's stripped and revarnished?
  5. I'm asking because I've been on the lookout for one and like to be educated on the subject. Most of the better Roth violins I've seen have better wood, tiger stripes, but I've also seen some early copies that weren't as nice to look at. Wasn't sure how much weight I should put on the violin appearance.
  6. I know Roth had made many violins up to this time, but wasn't sure if the early 20's was a demarcation between the period he was more involved in making violins himself vs. becoming more of a violin factory use of workshop. AFAIK the grading system was introduced somewhere around 1924. Was this just a better way for him to differentiate his base level vs. high level product? Or was it a move to mass production and a wider product set?
  7. MikeV

    ID a revarnish?

    Yes they do. How much does this clear coat affect the instrument? Is removal practical?
  8. MikeV

    ID a revarnish?

    Was wondering what thing to look for. I was looking at the violin above and didn't look like an obvious revarnish, but was told it was suspected to have been revarnished. In the particular case of this violin, I think a coat may have been added, but not sure.
  9. MikeV

    ID a revarnish?

    Are violin revarnish obvious? Does crazing hit at a revarnish?
  10. MikeV

    Scroll Origin?

    Could this be French? Eye is rather small.
  11. Has anyone seen this Franca stamp vs. France stamp before?
  12. Yes, but I don't know if this is spelled correctly. In most cases I've seen labels used, hadn't seen it stamped right on the maker's label.
  13. Anyone ever see this on a violin label?
  14. Thanks for the responses, they have all been interesting. Is there a recognized "standard" setup for bridges? I'm ask since many of the violins I've seen have bridges with different appearances. From symmetrical, to low, to sloping. How can I tell if the bridge is technically "correctly" setup? I had some concern with string height and potential damage to fingers. I get varying answers on the subject.
  15. My son visited with his Uncle this summer and he mentioned violin bridges are cut differently based on whether you fiddle (Irish Music) or play classical music. Where the fiddlers prefer a step angle to the E string. Any validity to this? Do players or style of music end up preferring a particular bridge shape?