carl1961

My wife, she does not play the violin, had something similar, (rotor cup damage),she could not raise her arm past her shoulder . Your friend need a rope hung on a hook -or pulley, like over a door area, or from the ceiling where your friend can stand up. and use that rope with good arm to exercise her bad arm. My wife has completely recovered, she had to retrain her muscles. something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Vive-Shoulder-Pulley-Rehabilitation-Strengthener/dp/B071149H43/ref=asc_df_B071149H43?

Here is a good ( I think so) information on amber varnish, i used his Venetian Amber Varnish, even though I don't know what the hell I am doing! http://www.jamescgroves.com/germanambervarnish.htm I used Vernici Liuteria varnish too again I don't know what I am doing!

After installing another sound post, and moving it to normal location , about 4mm behind bridge foot and new strings (Addario Zyex Medium Tension) and letting sound post settle a week, Violin is much better on the G. recorded with cell phone test.mp3

download 7zip and use it to unzip. https://7-zip.org/

that sound file was two years ago at first putting that violin back together. G string was defiantly worse last weak. today I removed the strings looked in the tail pin hole , sound post was straight but it was not correctly behind the bridge foot. moving it more towards the middle direction, the post was to short. I am currently fitting a longer post.

Sorry I meant Knilling Perfection Pegs, the slightly thread in.

I will do that , After I replace the strings and before I install a longer sound post. here is the original first done 2 years ago, if you can bare the playing! last test.mp3

Thanks @Michael Darnton , very interesting, I will try this, I hate the thought of having to open up this old violin. First I going to replace the strings with new ones these or 2 years old, and Note were the sound post is currently. when I removed the strings the sound post did not fall (been 2 years since installed).

your right I just turned it around , actually there just chopped, and posted fast so they or not in the top , bottom middle locations , I can do a better job tomorrow and make the templates too.

there may be a rule, those or viewed from inside as you scrap and thumb plane. I used hide glue and glued the cracks and then put a patch inside peg box. didn't do to good hiding it. I used Wittner Finetune Geared Violin Pegs so there is no pressure on the peg box like traditional pegs

I forgot I posted these pictures a couple years ago https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/gallery/album/213-charles-hammermiller-1906-violin/

I was hoping someone could point me why you would have a Weak G string while D, A and E or ok. when I had the top off to fix the cracks and checked plate thickness the top is thin in spots as low as 1.5 mm around the neck cheek areas . I tied moving sound post and nothing is touching the body ( Chin rest, tail piece etc.) I was wonder if it could be a bad bassbar? Picture from before the cracks was fixed.

some from the Betts CT Scan, I could do some templates from the right locations with fusion. the CT scan is correct measurements according to Roger Hargrave article

I used https://download.slicer.org/ to load the Dcon files, but as for the stl file I got it way back here on a betts post that a guy uploaded. I use fusion 360 to edit and mess with the stl file. it is so high resolution fusion 360 take a while to render. but without the high resolution, parts do not look right. for 3d printer slicer I use Simplify 3d and Cura , latest cura is even better than simplify3d now. https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/

Zip worked here also, running windows 11, and application installed