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  1. Thanks for letting me know this; I’ll look at pictures of his and others’ bows and try to identify this if I ever see it.
  2. Here is a picture of a bow that reduces diameter from the button to the thumb position from 8.5mm to 8.25mm and remains at 8.25mm till about 12cm when it increases to 8.7mm at 14cm from the button and the diameter begins to decrease toward the head at 19cm. I have commonly seen this, not on just this bow.
  3. Would this account for a handle narrowing from the button to the thumb position? What difference do you see between hand planed sticks and sticks with their handles turned on a lathe?
  4. I read and misunderstood much of this a while back. After looking at it now, I see that I falsely assumed the progression of the length increments. After comparing this with the Woolhouse account pasted below and referred to in the afore article, it appears much simpler. All you need to do is draw the Vuillaume diagram in actual life size, starting from the frog end, the cylindrical portion measures out to 110cm, then mark all the mm increments all the way to Vuillaume's 22 mm perpendicular, which will totally add up to, not including the 22mm, 700mm. With this explanatory millimeter rule, all you need to do to arrive at the 0.3 mm diameter decreasing increments’ positions, is to calculate and mark them below the drawn millimeter rule at each decreasing perpendicular on Vuillaume’s chart, calculating their diameter in mm starting with 8mm at the cylindrical portion, subtracting 0.3 mm at each perpendicular until you reach 5mm. With this length real life scale with the corresponding diameter incremental readings below the mm depicted rule, you will be able to size up and accurately carve any bow stick to the chart’s model, which is the model Vuillaume and his students employed, and this enumerated chart will likely prove to be a worthwhile life size reference for checking any Tourte model’s bow’s accuracy of craftsmanship. I’ve noticed two different bow models: the Tourte model, and countless bows with a model that decreases in diameter from the button/frog end to the thumb position and then increases in diameter toward the middle of the stick and progressively decreases toward the head. I don’t know where the second model I’ve seen originated.
  5. Hello everyone, I am trying to determine the precise design of the Tourte bow. I read in Fetis’ account of Vuillaume’s discoveries of Tourte’s bows and want to know if this account is precise and accurate. When you decrease the lengthwise intervals a cm at a time starting with the 11 cm cylindrical(length of which the diameter does not change) portion starting at the button, when you arrive at and complete the final distance of 1 cm, you reach a total of 66cm in length from button end toward the head of the stick. Fetis’ account depicts one more lengthwise decreasing interval beyond where we end up (at 1 cm being the last interval), as there is needed to be one more interval to reduce the diameter the 10th and final time from 5.3mm to 5mm likewise. I need to know the length of this last interval as depicted in the diagram to be the perpendicular y,z , how do we arrive at this final decreasing length, and there are a total of 4 cm unaccounted for which we need to reach the 70cm the account states is the length of the stick minus the bow head; how do we finally account for the total length of the last 4 cm. Fetis gives an additional perpendicular length B, D at 22mm as depicted on the chart, and could this be the length of the head? If so, the length of the head added to the length of the button, approximately 1.5 cm would equal 3.7 and add this to the 70 cm the account gives for the length of the stick minus the head and we reach 73.7 cm for the entire bow length. If I am erring please let me know; and could you please let me know how I am mistaken too. Thanks a lot in advance everyone.
  6. Rimino

    Bausch Bow

    Hello everyone, is there something I need to better describe my post or is there something else the reason why I don’t get any responses? Thanks everyone.
  7. Rimino

    Bausch Bow

    Hello everyone, I have a Bausch pernambuco bow, 74.1 cm and 54.5 g without hair, that I bought from a friend (who I also purchased from a while back an authentic Ludwig Bausch bow stamped under the frog with tiny silver bird’s eyes on each side of the frog that I showed to a professional appraiser). It isn’t stamped Germany on the shaft and is nickel-silver or just nickel(?). Can anyone tell if it is from the Bausch shop when Ludwig Bausch or his sons were alive? Thanks a lot everyone.
  8. Ok, I’ll try to wait till then, I’ll call soon.
  9. I can sharpen without the usual sharpening device with an angle and wheel, but do you use one of these? They seem to do a perfect job really fast. If a blade is not square, do you use a special grinding wheel to correct this or some other way?
  10. Thanks a lot for all this information. As you do this, I think you cut the sides of the mortise slightly narrow at first so the space gets ?mm beteeen neck and button, then you adjust the back of mortise that faces bridge to proper finger board projection; then adjust sides of mortise and neck between neck and button with chalk repeatedly until It fits perfectly, and then take the one or two last shavings to create the 1/4 mm gap between neck and button. Is this correct; if so, how ?mm initially close do you bring the neck to the button when you first start out? Do you draw with a stick of ordinary chalk on the sides of the mortise, put the neck in and take it back out of the mortise and check the sides of the mortise to see where the chalk rubbed off to see where the adjustment needs to be made?
  11. Thanks a lot for this. Neck setting is becoming clearer and way more simple to me now. After two or three neck sets and putting a wedge under the fingerboard last of all on my last violin, I’m armed with some experience and now these sound principles and skills.
  12. I use it to glue the blocks in, but the blocks separate a little too easy. I used hot hide glue before but I think it held too good and I had to really force the mold out.
  13. I don’t use it on the violin, just to glue the blocks to the mold( do you know of a better glue to glue on the blocks?) I buy raw granules of glue and use cow hide to glue on the top and fingerboard and rabbit skin for the rest (is this correct?).
  14. I picked up a Sargent no 409 c (corrugated sole) smoothing plane (no 4) off eBay inexpensively, the sole was mostly flat but I flattened it more on metal with 150 grit sandpaper with a lot of 3 in 1 oil which a plane collector told me to do and granite and likewise with the blade which I finished off with stones and a strop all in less than an hour, the plane is extremely easy to use and well balanced and heavy and and it flattened the top wood very easily and quickly.
  15. Ok, which fit do you check with the guage you talked about?