Steve Rodriguez

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About Steve Rodriguez

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  1. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    Thanks guys for the input. Violin making may be more complicated than rocket science.
  2. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    Thanks Conor. I’m actually a pretty old school thinking kind of guy. I think i’m not going to mess with the b0 matching anymore;i was having trouble with it anyway. The violin is finished and I really don’t feel comfortable about doing anything more to it where I might cause any damage. I think I’m just going play it. I need to attend a workshop someday to learn better ways to do things I was having trouble with on this first one, like some of the more basic aspects of building. I appreciate the help. Steve
  3. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    Thanks Jezzupe. A whole slew of techniques for luthiers to use. I might try some more of these methods in the future, and for now just getting my feet wet a bit to understand some basics. Regards , Steve
  4. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    Thank you Peter, that is great information. Steve
  5. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    I was able to find my way around just fine by finding the index shown in the notes under the videos. Your violins look great; thanks for sharing with us. The B0 on my violin actually wasn’t E it was B. I must be misinterpreting my results or something, or my violin exists in an alter-universe. thanks, Steve
  6. Steve Rodriguez

    Lowering B0 mode at fingerboard of finished violin

    Thanks guys, great advice. I appreciate your help. i taped different coins to the underside of the end of the fingerboard, and I didn’t detect hardly any difference in sound quality but the weird thing is that the frequency goes up instead of down when mass is added to the end of the fingerboard of this violin (even my wife agrees). I am holding it inverted above the shoulder, thumb and finger pinching it at the lower bout side purfling, strings muted by touching my shoulder and thumping the scroll. Using the piano to compare the notes. Hi Davide; your videos sure did help me out with my violin making. Thank you. Steve
  7. If one were to lower the B0 mode on a completed, varnished violin, how much wood has to be removed to lower the B0 from E flat to match the lower part of the violin; D or even C. Here is a link to Patrick Kreit's page regarding B0. http://www.kreitpatrick.com/index_fichiers/Page21355.htm in the photo of the fingerboard, removing mass from area 1, 2 is supposed to lower the frequency. I thought I had read somewhere that removing wood from the fingerboard on the neck (left of where "0" is shown, and not on the part of the fingerboard extending by itself over the body of the violin) would perform that function, so maybe scraping the edges of the fingerboard would be good? It seems that planing just the top of the fingerboard area over the neck would mean that the current symmetry of the entire fingerboard is altered and would be worse than just scraping the sides of the upper part of the fingerboard. I'm not sure exactly where this operation should occur, and how many fractions of a mm for example would be necessary to lower B0 by an entire note. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you, Steve
  8. Steve Rodriguez

    Steve Rodriguez's Bench

    Thank you. if I were to make another violin I would try to use some deeper color in the varnish when doing the scroll volutes and in other areas while still trying to keep the varnish layers to a minimum for the acoustic reasons I read about on this forum. I used my fingers to apply the varnish but not the ground. i would also like to get a smoother transition between the neck and the varnish so it is not such a sudden change (line) but I wasn’t exactly sure how to do that; I didn’t want varnish to get into the playing portion of the neck really. With the corners I started on the back first so I would be better at it by the time I got to the front. It seems there was never anything easy about making this; every step was a challenge. I have a lot of respect for you makers. There is something about the arching of Stradivari’s violins that intrigues me. I used the arching examples from the Sacconi book and used the Titian poster, but I would like to do better in that area. Regards, Steve
  9. Steve Rodriguez

    Steve Rodriguez's Bench

    Thanks y'all. To record a sound sample, I would want to get a good microphone. I should say that in comparison to the fiddle I’ve been playing on which sounds about like a 2 x 4 piece of lumber with strings, my wife hasn't complained as much about my playing, but I need to give it more time to be sure. The varnish I used on the violin is Joe Robson's dark rosin clear varnish, and also the purple alizarin color concentrate varnish. Regards, Steve
  10. Steve Rodriguez

    Steve Rodriguez's Bench

    Thank you Rue! I really appreciate it. I used Joe Robson’s ground and varnish. Steve
  11. Steve Rodriguez

    Steve Rodriguez's Bench

    I thought I would post some pictures of my first violin which I have just completed; it took me a year to make in my spare time. The pictures were taken on my workbench, located in front of a north facing window. Most of the lighting is natural, and I also had some overhead LED room lights on as well. I want to thank all of you that helped me out with my questions; I appreciate all the advice you gave me . The violin sounds better than the old factory violin that I was playing on so I am happy about that. Thank you, Steve
  12. Steve Rodriguez

    Wing crack in new violin

    Thanks for the complement on the f-holes. I just tried to wiggle the wing near the crack to assess it’s nature and it’s not moving. I then got one of those dental mirrors and looked on the inside of the violin. The crack does not go thru to the underside. Do you think i should first put the violin in he UV box before gluing so to allow the ground varnish to cure for a better glue bond afterwards or glue first to maybe prevent the crack from spreading from UV effects on the crack if this is even a concern. By the way, that last ground varnish coat of Joe Robson’s is a 4 to 1 ratio of resin to oil; thanks Steve
  13. Steve Rodriguez

    Wing crack in new violin

    James, Thanks for the help. I don't know if I will get what I think they call that "ghosting" effect when coats of varnish are applied over it, but if it happens it would probably be a minimal effect, and this sounds like a good idea. I've been using two containers of water in the UV trash can; it is good to know that is the right thing to do. I appreciate it. Steve
  14. Steve Rodriguez

    Wing crack in new violin

    I was finishing up putting on the ground on my first violin and I noticed a small hairline crack, and so I'm kinda feeling down about this cause I've been working so long on this violin. The hairline crack doesn’t actually appear to be opening, so I don't know if it should it really be called a crack at this point. I didn’t put it back in UV container to cure yet because I didn’t know if that would make it get worse. By the way, my UV container consists of a 30 gallon round metal trash can with quantity 4, 17 watt single black light tubes. Internal temp of trash can is around 83 degrees when curing. Other than that, I have been using sunlight when I can; temp range 55F/13C to 65F/18C. I didn’t know if I should try and fix it first before putting it back in the UV container to cure, but then I wouldn't know how to fix it because there does not seem to be enough of a crack to put any glue into it, etc. Maybe I try and glue a small shaving of spruce underneath the plate with the grain running transverse to the grain of the top plate to keep it from spreading further? I don't know how to make the crack line disappear; maybe the varnish will hide it. I really appreciate any help. Attached are some pictures. Thank you, Steve https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/forum/4-the-pegbox/&do=add#
  15. Steve Rodriguez

    Overstand and Neck projection

    Thanks Nick, and I believe you are right about the figure. I was getting cross-eyed last night working on it; that heel still has just a hint of space under it that has to go away. That space that is hidden by the mortice; that is what has been strange to get used to working with; shaving down the front part of the heel so the back part can come down. What's crazy is how every change has such a big impact on the other parameters, and when you get closer to the end how careful one has to be. I appreciate your help. Steve