Steve Rodriguez

Members
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Steve Rodriguez

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  1. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Guys, thanks for all the input; I do appreciate it. I think this Pegbox forum is awesome and it has really helped me on this first violin. bkwood, what is most appealing to me about the concave sides is that there is a possibility it may help my playing. As there are no frets, maybe this kinda serves the purpose of giving my brain the added sub-conscious association of width with the note so maybe my playing accuracy will improve. I don’t know for sure though, but I am making this violin for me to play and I have been thinking to implement that technique which you see described in those links above. My original question revolved more around what happens to the the neck near the neck-fingerboard junction; this was a bit uncertain before but this question has been answered. Regards, Steve
  2. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Bkwood, to clarify; the convexity when looking down the end of the fingerboard would be the curve from left to right on top of the fingerboard.
  3. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Bkwood, the convexity I see would be the curve seen on the top of the fingerboard if you are looking down the fingerboard from the end like you would down a rifle barrel; that’s not what we are talking about.
  4. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I really appreciate the help David. I see now that it is okay to have a bit of asymmetry then in the neck concavity from side to side. I was thinking of making the "side" concavity less on the E string side than the G string side of course, and this would match the concavity on the top; in the end the thickness of the fingerboard sides would be uniform from nut to end of fingerboard. Regards, Steve
  5. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Okay, here's a crazy question regarding the violin neck side concavity; I'm still working on my first violin. I've read postings regarding fingerboard side concavity. The neck sides should be shaped to fit the side concavity of the fingerboard since the neck sides are flush with fingerboard where they join, so if the left side of the fingerboard has a different degree of concavity than the right side then the neck will also show asymmetry (left side versus right side) in this respect, but it is so slight that we don't care correct? Thanks, Steve
  6. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Thanks Tim. Yeah I shouldn't get ahead of myself I guess. I might as well not rush cause I'm going to be the one playing this violin. I really appreciate your help.
  7. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Thanks for the guidance Carl. I second the thanks to Tim for the pictures; really awesome indeed, and so different than I would have expected regarding the arching. Tim, I have to add that you violins look super nice. Thanks again for you help. Steve
  8. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Tim, great practical ideas. I have looked at less expensive violins but nothing noteworthy. I'll try those ideas. I am really trying hard to get my head around the arching. It is taxes the mind to think about how they came up with the design for the arching in the first place. I appreciate you posting pictures but I don't see the link, or rather there is nothing to click on that is active. Help! Lethbridge violins thanks for being in the same boat as me on the first violin and getting thru it. I got the confidence now. I got to finish this by Christmas so I can put it under the tree; present to myself. regards, Steve
  9. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Tim, thanks very much for your input and help, and it does make sense not to get this first one perfect. I'll think I'll take your advice and move on and not be so critical. regards, Steve
  10. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Thanks for the help guys. By the way, I measured about 2.9 to almost 3.0 mm in an area a little more than one square inch area around where the soundpost will be. This might be a bit thin but hopefully will be okay. The plate shows to be 70 grams right now. Steve
  11. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Don, Thank you for your input, I'm starting to feel more confident again. I will weigh my plate and use that figure to help guide me too. One thing I have been learning is that there is not much room for error in violin making. Regards, Steve
  12. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Davide, Thanks for the advice; it's easy to get caught up with just thinking about thickness. I have to work on getting my tools sharper too. If this one doesn't sound good in the end, who knows I might try to make another one. Thanks, Steve
  13. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Nathan, Thanks for the numbers. I have 2.8 between the FF's and 3 at the post area, I flex the plate and feel it move kinda nicely, but I don't have a reference point for feel as I haven't built a violin before. When I tap it, it sounds like D on the piano, if I take off more it might go below D. I have around 3 to 3.2 in the lower C's. I might take off more in the extremes of the flanks. It is funny about the "OP" grads y'all; I was thinking the OP was a certain part of the violin plate. . I like John's idea of considering the points of stress on the violin; that makes a lot of sense to me now as to why the grads are thicker in certain areas. Yeah, this is one heck of a journey. Thanks y'all.
  14. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    Nick and Nathan, thanks for the help. Nathan, this is a dumb question but what are the OP grads; I have seen this term used before. I will try to work the thickness down more carefully going forward on the back plate. I have to say that making a violin is one the hardest things I have ever done; very humbling for sure.
  15. Top Plate Thickness Concern

    I'm making my first violin and I am a somewhat concerned about the thickness of my top plate as it is nearing completion. My target was to make the plate 2.8 mm in the upper and lower bouts, and thicker in the C's, around the f-holes, and in the center of the plate. I have an oblong spot of around 2.2 to 2.4mm thickness about a square inch in the lower left bout that kinda runs parallel to the edge and starts about 3/4 inch from the edge. The rest of the lower bout fluctuates between 2.7 to 2.8mm; a few spots can be found down to 2.5mm. The upper bout is a bit more consistent in trying to keep 2.8mm. I'm worried that this 2.2mm area is too thin, but then maybe it is okay; I'm not sure. Should I just thin down more of the left lower bout and perhaps even the right lower bout to make it all more symmetrical? Maybe also the flanks of the upper bouts? Should I just leave it alone at this point? The grain spacing is about 1.0mm, and I'm using the Titian plan. I appreciate any advice. Thank you. Steve