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About balen

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  1. Yes its full size, has purflings, fair wood, back, neck and ribs are generally in good condition, top had has its wear and repairs in time. The violin has a beautiful look. Has a very nice reddish brown varnish. I wonder what does R and S means under the button. Do you think it's about hundred years old? Anyways I will give it some good love, fully restore and clean it, put some goods on it and can't wait to see how it will sound. I imagine it will be quite sweet and mellow.
  2. You're right Martin, here are some additional shots:
  3. Hello guys, I just found this one, looks like an old czech one but cant recognize the brand. I presume it's at least 50 years old.
  4. looks like a baby alien to me.
  5. 2,5-4 is too low for steel imo, at least for orchestra play. It takes away so much from projection, and with some problematic instruments lower frequencies of the G and D sounds too weak and dull. I generally set up mine as 5,5-3,5 or 5-3,5 depending on the instrument, fingerboard, instruments condition, strings and the player. For cello I use 7,5-5,5. 8 seems to be a bit high for most players. For violas I may use 6-4, but of course it depends on the variables.
  6. balen

    red flames

    Mike sorry for the late reply, I actually don't know the type of the pigment. It was an orange pigment from kremer, added to the oil varnish without mulling it.
  7. a miserable life while there are people out there like burgess or holmes. Just joking tho. And old topic but I wanted to say something too; The real answer is depends where you live. In my country(Turkey), since regular living is very expensive enough, violin making is quite a bit luxury job, where you don't have enough demand basically. I'm also an academician at the university as also being a luthier. So ı'm lucky. But for most our graduates, life's quite hard. And they are changing their careers to be music teachers. Since people earn less money, they want you to make instruments
  8. Being a straight razor user and a sharpening addict; I have lots of stones. Natural to synthetic, cheap to expensive. Aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, arkansas varieties, belgian coticule, ceramic stones, roszutec stone, regular clay based japanese stones, high end japanese ceramic stones, lots of national natural oil and water stones like turkey oil stone and etc. Plus diamond pastes, diomond sprays, cbn sprays, lapping films, Shaptons, naniwas, ceraxes, kings, suehiro you name it Ive got it. Even my masters thesis was about sharpening stones and bevels.If I could only get a nice shiny charle
  9. The best steel I've ever used for knife is dictums hss blades. I guess those are m2 or even m6 steels, with a hardness of 65hrc. It takes a bit longer to sharpen than regular alloy steels but they last 2 to 3 times compared to pfeil knives. Plus they don't burn easily when you regrind them. One disadvantage of them since they are not as pure as other steels there is a limit how sharp they can be. They can be sharpened to crazy sharp not to scary sharp. To me scary sharp is when you touch the edge you get that tickly sensation on your back and on wood it just polishes it while its cutting. Sinc
  10. balen

    File question

    Hello people, I have an old little half round file passed from a friend. I've been using it for some years and its still cuts quite well, almost like a vallorbe. It has a lion logo on in and "made in germany" on the back. No brand name. I looked but couldn't find any info. I wonder if anybody knows which brand this might be? and old f. dick or pferd maybe? Also how do you compare pferds to vallorbe? In my country they are a lot cheaper than vallorbe. I didn't like bahco files, but if these are good p/p files I may give them a try since vallorbe's are a bit too expensive for me.
  11. balen

    red flames

    You know Daniel, I'd took this photo and uploaded to flickr, it was done by my previous teacher, as far as I remember this was an oil varnish with a bit of pigments in it from kremer. No particular staining, grounding or primer was applied to this particular one, so pigments alone may help a lot to achieve what you've asked for.
  12. I've been using the myrrh for some time, as I said before its a gum resin which means its a gum but also a resin complex. Thus solvent is important. Since gums wont dissolve in alcohol but in water, if you dissolve it in water you get the gum part, in alcohol you get the resin part. In water you almost dissolve half of the myrrh you've put into it. Which is enough for me. Gives a nice light golden stain, and improves flames too. Since gum arabic is a pure gum its very natural for it to completely dissolve in water just like any pure gums. What I was talking about; is gum arabic seems like
  13. So albumen in vb as a protein acts as a sealer and a hardening agent.The honey and sugar for hygrosocping and gum arabic as an ahdesive for the varnish. Which has been used for ages as adhasive. I had bad memories with vb, used same recipe used here but with brown sugar, it nicely applied to wood and harden it, but it was so hygroscopic, it didnt accept my spirit varnish and rejected it. I had to remove the varnish 3 times. After that I though there may be a problem with my spirit formula, and decided to apply oil varnish. Darn thing evet didn't accepted oil varnish too. With so much effo
  14. With little hot water and heat from a hot iron, bridges can be straightened with a basic clamp jig. Generally need to be clamped a few hours. But this only works for a short term, then most possibly the bridge will warp soon again.