violinsRus

Here's what I found helpful. Flesch fingering with Galamian turns added. Can't recall where I got this, but it works for me (rank amateur!), and as you say, easier to memorize and easier to train the fingers! 3 octave scales Flesch Fingerings Galamian 48 note scales.pdf

Agree. I would skip urea and stick with straight hide glue, thinned. I use Nick's method of working slowly around the plate. Good luck.

Thanks Davide, my experience exactly. I don't include spike lavender in any varnish anymore. Others may have different experience...

OK, so I mixed up some 1704 for kicks, with 55 grams of seedlac, and 200 ml alcohol. I added 2 grams of gum elemi, and let it dissolve for several weeks, mixing often. Then heated to boiling and filtered. Nice stuff! There is one surprise, that the consistency has turned out like slightly thickened gravy, like corn-starch was used! It gets runny when heated, but it's a bit goopy at room temp. It is very brushable, but just not anything like the 'spirit varnishes' I've purchased before. A completely different animal! What's up, is this bad, good or indifferent? Was there too much elemi? In a way I like it, as it doesn't run, and allows a bit of rebrushing as it doesn't dry instantly. The only down-side seems to be that it is a bit matte finish, and I have to be careful not to leave brush strokes. Anyone with comments? I've used oil varnishes on recent instruments, so my experience is limited. Thanks?

looks like it is!

I have the same issue in winter, and found that the tiniest amount of rosin dust is helpful. Just rub the edge of your rosin block a little bit. This was a tip from another MN member and it I found it worked for me...

Yes, probably right. From my limited experience that 'gunk stuff' is not a very good glue at all, rather a crumbly filler you can pick off with your fingernail. Part of why the neck came off in the first place. I do think it's worth scraping at least most of it out, so there is something for glue to stick to. A friend bought a cello case that came with 'free cello inside'. He thought it was a great deal. The neck came off in first few months, and the joint looked just like this.

you have in your hands a very cheaply made Chinese instrument, assembled with great haste and excessive 'glue' used as a filler. It really needs all that old gunk removed, the top block repaired (could be done with fitting in a piece of spruce), and the neck re-set and glued with hot hide glue. But one would certainly wonder if it's worth this much effort on such a cheaply made instrument. might be better to suggest buying a quality instrument.

The maple and the ebony could have been to prevent the endpin from distorting the bottom block wood over time. Hard to say if that is a repair or the maker's intent. Wow, those ribs look pretty thick, unless it's just the camera.

you might be seeing a neck graft on the violin, where the neck and scroll are different pieces of wood. I think those started in the 1800's, and even modern instruments can have them for a variety of reasons. Including just to make them appear older than they are.

Yes, you will find this is true.

It has been glued at least once before. I guess it depends on the rest of the instrument.

Have used Alphayue, they do seem to stretch for several days before stabilizing. Not bad though. I thought they sounded better than the Ascente, but I didn't try many sets of those. Corelli New Crystal is still my fav go-to student string, and if I'm in a playful mood, then John Pearse Artiste is an interesting $20 string set.

I have had significant trouble with students using the 'dampit' kind of internal humidifiers, which can drip and cause rib cracking and warping. I have never had trouble with the little in-case canvas tubes with crystals, like the Oasis, provided the users don't accidentally dump out the crystals. And provided distilled water is used. And I have had these in cases of rather fragile old violins with good results. Nathan has vastly more experience, but these have served me well so far and I still recommend them here.

I also give thumbs up to www.carpathiantonewood.com. Got nice wood, shipping was expensive, but the buying experience was easy and reassuring. Catalin was very helpful. You can choose the wood from the pics on the site, most of it is pretty fresh and should be dried further. There is ample extra thickness and length to the blanks.