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About violinsRus

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  1. yes, interested to see belly, and ff's. also, what is thickness of back in center? Interesting slab cut back.
  2. Not to contradict Michael, but I think a worn area on a back can look similar, when pores become filled with grunge over time. This is a well known Strad, and shows some similarities. But one certainly can't assume that an old piece of maple is Cremonese, just because the pores have darkened.
  3. This may be no help, but an acquaintance has an old American church bass with spruce back and belly that I thought was rather unique. I'm not sure what it would be good for, as it's not likely to work as a modern cello. but the spruce back is rather interesting, quarter sawn if I recall correctly, and in good condition. I have never seen that before or since.
  4. Thanks folks, and Evan, your points are all good. I've found I can also make better vibrato progress with sticky finger tips, even used a little rolled up tape to hold the tip in place. I'll try the rosin dust, sounds smart. I do revert to spittle on the finger tips, sure helps at this stage. I have been playing for decades, vibrato too (which I used to think was decent), but I find I never paid close enough attention to everything. Now with a much better instrument and bow I'm motivated to refine things further before I'm too old to change, hence the focus on improvement and details. Will keep at it! Hmm, do I go practice now or do I go carve the next belly and back?
  5. I've recently made an effort to relax my fingers more during vibrato, so the first joint is more flexible. I find that with moist finger tips this works well, but with dry finger tips (worse in dry winter weather) the fingers tend to slide out of position. And if I press harder to keep the finger tip in place I lose the flexibility, and it feels and sounds cramped. does this sound familiar to anyone? I'm avoiding moisturizing lotions, as I suspect that may not be a good idea for the strings or instrument. But if anyone has thoughts I would appreciate it.
  6. I don't think I'll deviate from the 130 neck on my builds, to keep to the standard. And the bridge position can be fudged slightly from the notches to get you 195, that would be one approach. Others here on MN have made that suggestion before. Unless you have a real reason you wanted the bridge at 197.
  7. Yes, I've often wondered if anyone made a copy of his instrument, the arching is dramatic. And I was also surprised how nice the varnish looked, even though there was just one small patch of red-orange left on the back, and mostly yellow remaining. It made one think that a lot of the color had worn off over time...
  8. if the cello has 'high action', it takes excessive finger pressure to stop the string. Lowered action, also at the nut, can make string instruments easier to finger, but get a luthier to check it if you suspect that it could be lowered.
  9. Well, to my eye in the pics the scoop depth looks like a lot more than 1.0mm, or the camera/lighting is distorting it. I'd be interested if you put a straightedge across the scoop and measured the depth in this region, if it is really 1.0mm! Nice work, and great wood! Keep up the good work.
  10. I'm sure you are learning to read music too, that would be an important part of playing in an orchestra. Had a student come to us who could play quite well, but had learned everything by ear, and it took quite an effort to get him into reading music after the fact. Good luck!
  11. I have also enjoyed Nicola Benedetti's helpful material , and there are many other sites available. Nothing replaces a good teacher however.. Some teachers I know also refer to and the older videos at in the end it's about putting in the hours. didn't someone say that to master something it takes 10,000 hours? Best of luck!
  12. violinsRus

    Cello ID?

    Since C. Jacquot was mentioned, this brand is often on the back, seen in the ff's. Maybe elsewhere in the instrument as well. I don't know if it was always used on his instruments, but I've seen it.
  13. I have seen it done, you soak the wood in water and hammer it, and it parts on the growth ring.
  14. Several have expressed helpful suggestions that you let this pass, since it's likely going to be a waste of time. Join the club, we probably all have 'horror stories' about items or instruments we bought only to find it wasn't fully described. Like the plywood cello I once bought listed as vintage.. : It's OK to live and learn, and just move on. my 2 cents...
  15. I'm inclinded to think it's white oak 'split', as used in basket making since colonial times. Known to be very easy to bend, which is something a self-taught maker would be looking for..