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Darrma's Achievements

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  1. I'm a relative beginner to playing the violin myself, having started about 7 months ago. I have been playing guitar for 20-odd years though. My teacher didn't have me use finger-tapes or markers of any kind, and I must say I'm quite glad. I think that not using tapes or markers allows you to place your fingers as they want to be instead of trying to focus on an edge or contact point to coincide with the tape. Most of the time my first position playing is now quite adequately in tune, however, I can't imagine how useful any sort of marker would have been for very long as the difference in being in tune and out of tune is incredibly slight. I can play a note that sounds almost perfectly in tune and then throw it noticeably out of tune by altering the position of my wrist slightly, never mind the finger. I think, as people trying to the learn the violin, this is just a hurdle we have to overcome over time (and mostly with our ears rather than our eyes). Progress feels slow, but if you keep correcting it does happen!
  2. Brilliant. Thank you very, very much for all this information (to everyone who has replied in this thread). Now I've just got to put it all to practice and get good at it. One thing's for sure: I'll certainly have no excuses now if my scrapers are dull
  3. Hopefully I will develop a feel for these things as I practice and gain more experience. Am I understanding correctly that the step of flattening the faces of the scraper on the stones is also something that need not be done very regularly? That the most regularly carried out steps will be to lightly top-up and burnish the edge and to fold the edge, as you show in your video? I confess that at the moment I go through the process of completely flattening the scraper on the stones and completely squaring the edge before I try to re-burnish the tool. I suppose this is making the process far more lengthly than it needs to be.
  4. Wow! Great video. Thanks for posting it Davide In your comments you say "Apply the smallest possible pressure" when I have previously (and unsuccessfully) been using as much pressure as I could reliably apply. Seemingly small, but very important difference, as highlighted by others here. I've found somewhere I can get a 0.5mm scraper from as well, so I'll try to make a couple in the shapes that you show. Thanks again.
  5. Davide, you illustrate it very well in those videos. I have never been able to sharpen any scraper to cut as well as that. I am definitely putting far too much pressure onto the burnisher when I do it -no question, and the same is true of the final step of folding the burr as well. I have a couple of unused rectangular card scrapers and I'd like to make one in the same shape you use. I cannot find 0.5mm scrapers though and only have 0.4 and 0.6, would the 0.4 be the better choice for this type of scraper? Thanks again, it's always a treat to watch and learn from your videos!
  6. Ah, I haven't come across this yet -a good excuse to keep watching them!
  7. I'm sorry I didn't get back to this sooner -I'm a couple of days late. Early experiments have seen me really enjoying using non-bevelled scrapers, just with the flat faces and a square edge that many in this thread recommended. I think I've finally got my kit fiddle to a point where I'm very close to applying the ground and varnish I purchased from Nunzio (Vernici Liuteria). He's currently completing a .pdf file to instruct in the application of his varnish and ground and, when that's complete, I'm sure I'll be read to start applying! Thanks again everyone for all the useful help and advice.
  8. Hi again folks, thank you all very much for the replies -I've got plenty of variations to try now, probably tomorrow evening. And thanks Evan for doing the illustration. I think I understand what you mean about no.5 too. So, just to make I'm on the right track: Using the diamond stone to square of the edge isn't necessarily a problem (so long as you can keep it square), but some people prefer to use a file. Once the faces have been flattened and the edge has been squared, as above, it is not necessarily necessary to do anything further; the scraper should cut in this state (and you all seem to be saying that is should be a very fine cut too, which is probably what I'm looking for in this instance). If I do choose to put a burr on my scraper after the above two stages, then try burnishing using a 45º angle as apposed to a nearly 90º. don't use anywhere near as much pressure when burnishing and try going over the same spot fewer times. Thanks everyone, if wasn't quite so late I'd have a go now! I'll let you all know how I get on And, Evan, here is the TCT burnisher I have https://www.workshopheaven.com/arno-carbur-2-solid-carbide-burnisher.html . I'm was more used to using the sort that you posted, but made of steel, so it's interesting to know that you can by TC rods too.
  9. Ah, this looks more complicated than I had thought, haha. I don't have access to a grinding wheel and, honestly, they do intimidate me quite a bit Maybe it would help if I explained my current (and unsuccessful) method for sharpening a new scraper: Flatten both faces of the scraper completely on a 300 then 1,000 grit diamond stone. Flatten the edge to as perpendicular as possible using the same stone (I have done this previously by holding and rotating the scraper over the stone, but the idea of clamping the scraper and moving the stone seems to make much more sense). Alternate for a short while between those two processes to make sure I have the faces and the edge completely flat without any unintentional burr -to be clear: my goal here is to end up with a scraper that is completely flat on both faces and completely flat on the edge; as if it it been cut with a very fine laser from an elliptical cylinder-type shape. I then place the scraper flat on my workbench, nearly overhanging the edge and, using either a specific TCT scraper burnisher or a regular 'big, old screwdriver shaft' type, I proceed to apply pressure in a smooth but heavy motion across as much of the perimeter as I can realistically get to (repeatedly) before rotating the scraper and carrying on. I do this slightly off-level, with the handle of the burnisher slightly down which, in my mind's eye, creates a small burr close to parallel to the face of the scraper, going off over the edge. I do this for some time... (I should point out that, by this time, the ineffective nature of my method is beginning to reveal itself to me). Eventually, I stop and, holding the scraper vertically, run the burnisher nearly perpendicular to the edge I've burnished in a fast, smooth motion, in order to (I imagine) fold the burr over. (I am now fully aware that last 10-15 minutes have largely been spent in vain). I then face my disappointment as the scraper is only questionably sharp at best. Is this even along the right track, or am I simply going about this is completely the wrong way? Is the use of a file on the edge, rather than a diamond stone, what I'm mostly missing? Am I simply getting my wires crossed and the process of filing the edge isn't meant to leave no burr at all, but to perhaps start a burr that will be refined later with the burnisher? Sorry, and thanks for all the replies so far -your patience is appreciated
  10. Thank you for the reply uncle duke. I was late in saying thank you because I didn't fully understand your reply the first few times I read it and so it seemed better to keep having a look. I'm pretty sure I understand your method now though. I don't have a good metal file, would it be sufficient to use my diamond sharpening stone? And even to use it in the grooved piece of wood as you have suggested? Thanks again!
  11. Hello! I've a question for anyone who knows: How do you sharpen your scrapers effectively? I've not done too badly with a standard, straight-edged card scraper, but I've yet to find a good and reliable method for sharpening my curved scrapers and I know they're not cutting anywhere near as well as I would like them too. I'm just coming up to preparing my kit violin for varnish and I've love to know how to get a good edge on my scrapers before I begin the task I've found a lack of information in this regard when looking previously so maybe this can be useful to other amateurs as well
  12. Well, the drawing will be good at least, haha -I'll have to keep my fingers crossed for everything that comes after!
  13. Hi Addie, Thank you for the answer, un-important I know, but it was confusing me nonetheless. And a big thank you for the forma drawings you created and shared. I think I've settled on the 'Titian' as my first instrument to concentrate on (at least, assuming the information provided on the Strad poster proves to be digestible by myself) and I hope you don't mind if your drawing of the 'P' is the basis of it.
  14. I have a question for anyone that might know... I'm looking at the file Addie created for the 'P forma' (not the 'P (B)' and not the 'P 1705'), is this the same forma that is often referred to as 'P MS44'? (also a silly question, why is it referred to as MS44?)
  15. Hi JacksonMaberry. Thank you, yes, I am aware of these (you might have missed my previous post near the bottom of page one, where I asked about perhaps using Addie's forma instead of trying to construct my own from the posters). I believe this will be the route I will go down but, as Jim says, looking at the forma from a geometric perspective (as in the F. Denis approach) might be very useful/insightful as well, even if I do not ultimately use the template I produce with it.
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