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Everything posted by bengreen

  1. I use Boveda packs for my bass rosin. Most soft bass rosins turn to bricks after a few months. It’s a waste, replacing them for something fresh while there’s still plenty left. The Rosin Saver came along, sized specifically for Pops, using the 73% RH Boveda packs and much of that waste went away. I use Oak rosin (square) so had to make my own container, but it was worth the trouble: I’ve been using the same cake of rosin for 3 years now. David, the reason I’m mentioning this here is that you already know replacing the packets can be a little pricey. They start out with the consistency of jello, and they’re dead when they get hard and crystallized. For me that’s after about 6 months. Boveda warns you not to attempt to recharge them, that the results can be unpredictable. But there’s tons of video’s from cigar guys (gals?) showing how to do it. I gave it a try. For me it’s just risking a cake of rosin. I soaked them in a container of distilled water for about a week (too long but I had a gig out of town). They puffed up, more feeling like water filled than gel. I let them dry off and stuck them in a sealed container with a hygrometer. They settled at about 86% RH. It turns out my rosin actually likes the higher RH so I’m happy. I’ll check them again in a couple months. Since doing that, I’ve seen an alternative rehydrating technique that makes more sense to me. Kind of a double boiler setup. Dead Boveda packs placed in an open topped jar which itself is placed in a sealed container semi-filled with water and left on a window sill or warm place to saturate the air inside. I still have one more dead pack. I’ll give it a shot and see if the result is closer to the original RH. Again, I’m just risking some rosin. You’re risking an instrument. But for what it’s worth....
  2. For final dimensioning you need to avoid tearout because you don't have enough material left to smooth again without weakening the stick. You can get away with a cutting iron if you're real careful with grain direction and scrupulous about sharpening. But for the end game, it's more forgiving to switch to scraper planes, both flat bottom and curved bottom (not spooned like an Ibex). Do a search for bow makers scraper planes. If you want a quick one stop place that only deals in bow stuff, you can try Lynn Hannings site. Jerry P commissioned a limited run to recreate historic planes he likes. He might have some left.
  3. Note to self: don't put the bow case on the roof of the car while you're loading the bass in the back. Hopefully even I'm not too thick to learn my lesson after doing it...twice! First time ran over my own bow backing up (luckily it was in a really tough case). Second time a kind stranger flagged me down in the street before it fell off...my stand partner's only decent bow I'd taken to rehair. Ugh! I have a murky memory of having to make a certain number of posts before uploading photos was allowed. Still the case? Any way around it? OP just joined.
  4. bengreen

    Weard frog

    Actually on second look, are you sure it's not a hole in the frog and some one hung it up on the screw?
  5. bengreen

    Weard frog

    Looks like what I've seen I've seen at Home Depot. Construction screw. Supposed to be able to turn them with square, Phillips, star and one other (I forget what) screw drivers and be resistant to the head stripping out. What it's doing in a frog I have no idea, though it kind of makes an interesting visual impact regards placing the pearl decoration some place other than in the center.
  6. Ok, thanks. I'll tie a fat knot and give a good tug before buttoning it up. I've washed a few plastic forks in my time. May as well do one more. It's more of a friendship gesture than anything else anyway.
  7. Hi. Anybody have experience hairing this kind of plastic frog? Should I ... Tie a normal knot, plunk it down into the front compartment and let the constriction at the bottom of the ramp hold in place? Try to plug it? Throw it in the trash? Actually, last one isn't an option. Doing this as a favor for a violin teacher friend who wants to donate it to his school. Thanks
  8. Me too, thanks Rue. So just not a feature of the Home page anymore. Hopefully safer from trolls this way.
  9. Just wondering, is there any plans for or means of bringing back the consolidated listing of new posts that we had on the home page before it was so badly trolled? It was pretty handy if you followed more than one forum.
  10. You have to make a distinction when some grits are capable of making a perceptible change in the shape of what you're applying them to vs just affecting the surface reflectivity. There may be no perfect dividing line but that doesn't relieve you from keeping the difference in mind whether you're doing new work or restoration.
  11. Works amazingly to keep bass rosin soft. I've been using the same cake of original oak rosin for about three years now. Have to replace the packets about every 6 months, but they're cheap compared to the rosin. Thanks for the tip on soaking. I'll try it.
  12. I was taught to think of micro-mesh 3600 and above as polish, anything lower as sanding. It was also recommended to lube with a bit of paraffin for the last couple of grits (8000, 12000) to make it pop. That does make the ebony appear blacker but the effect fades rapidly and I don't bother with it anymore. 12000 grit is like a mirror. The above is more about making a frog. The practical application is that I always use a backing for 3200 and below (a block for the flats and the back of a gouge for the sides) to prevent distorting or softening the edges of the surfaces. Then I'd just use my fingers at 3600 and above. Unless you're doing a repair, I'd be hesitant to do anything to a frog other than wipe it with a soft cloth. Removing the tarnish from the silver is pretty routine but even then you have to realize you're removing some material each time you put compound to it. And ideally it's not a great idea to put anything slippery (polish, oil) on parts of the bow that the player actually grips, though I admit I'm guilty of it occasionally too. For what it's worth, here's the micro-mesh / sandpaper conversion chart and you can make your own judgement.
  13. I was going to give you a step by step of how I've done it on pants (my tux is 30 years old). It involved buying a new zipper at a fabric store, remove the slider and substitute new for old with some cutting and stitching at the ends. But these things look interesting to me: https://www.fixnzip.com https://www.zipperrescue.com/ Worth a look. Of course the simplest would be to just slide the broken one to the end of its travel and leave it there, using the working slider to open and close the case.
  14. Hi, There's a kind of roundabout method you can use if you can find a midi file of the piece. When I wanted to shift the Bach Cello Suites to Double Bass I imported a midi file of it into Muse Score and then was able to change the key. It did need a little cleaning up because the midi split it over several channels. A source of midi files is: https://www.classicalarchives.com/midi.html or even IMSLP. However, I did run into this score: https://www.8notes.com/scores/29610.asp which is transposable on the web site. I'm not familiar. Was this the piece you wanted? The same service also has a midi (again transposable via the web site) at: https://www.8notes.com/scores/29602.asp?ftype=midi These guys are new to me. I'll have to explore their offerings myself. One added benefit of going the midi route is that most smart phones have midi apps available that will perform the piece for you. You can mute the solo instrument channel and have an effective music minus one accompaniment to practice to which can be broken into small loops and tempo (and pitch) adjusted. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  15. Is John Stagg unwell? Retiring? Bow book facebook page has older picture of him with caption: "Found this while we were packing up the workshop - probably taken some 20 years ago, when John was in better health."
  16. You guys may be talking at cross purposes. I'm getting the impression damage is to the stick, not the frog.
  17. I love the concept. Have they held up well in use?
  18. I went with plan 1 -1/2 and it's held up for 3 or 4 years now. Neck-graft-ish but chiseling below the base--and for the full length--of the existing mortise to expose three large surfaces for long grain gluing. Then re-carve the throat and the mortise. Extremely important to support the sides of the head before beginning. I glued some maybe 5 mm thick basswood sticks I had left over from when I used to use them for spreaders. They worked fine and were easy to file away later. I probably have some pics if you opt for the low tech approach. BTW someone mentioned just gluing the blown out piece back in place. The reason I had to do the graft was because someone before me had tried the simple glue job and it failed the first time the hair was tightened. There's just not enough gluing surface for such a highly stressed area. When Jerry mentions roller coaster exciting, the picture that comes to mind is your (what you thought was) adequately supported bow head jumping out of place as soon a machine powered force is placed upon it and mayhem happening before you can hit the off switch. A mill head is going to exert more driving force than say a rotary saw doing a spline. It's a tricky shape to secure. Good luck.
  19. Maybe it would help if you reframe the original question. Was there a problem you're having with your tips that led you to look at that tool?
  20. But I get the impression a lot of folks here are talking bone. And I suspect a lot of these bows are going to perhaps future professionals but at the moment sword fights and chewed heads aren't out of the question. Mammoth might be a bit much.
  21. A machinist student in one of Lynn's classes made me forms similar to Fiddler 45's pic out of heavy steel ingots. They retain heat like crazy but the down side of that is you're going "ooch, ouch" while handling them. They work great but wood works fine too. And the wood you can customize easily. Just a bandsaw cut in a block of wood a little deeper than the final curve you want. That nick you see helps to avoid inadvertently prying off the vertical part of the tip (which rotates in towards the wood when you tighten the clamp). And there was the warning to put a piece of paper between wood and tip to prevent any colorant in the wood staining the tip.
  22. Pic helps a lot. Thanks. Organic stuff really doesn't hold up very well. Easy to disregard when it looks so lovely to start out.
  23. Normally agree that white lapping looks tacky, but here the black and white mirror exactly the tiles on the button and visually tie things together. I've never done other than simple pearl insets so can't judge fleur and am the last person to ask about authenticity. But that head looks beautiful to me and the workmanship very high level. How does it play?
  24. I get it why people would use Mammoth exclusively, beautiful and easy to work. Crossing borders with it though...risky. But is there a reason no one is mentioning Tip Armor or Casein as an alternative to bone? They're slightly more expensive than bone but lots easier to work. Your time has to be worth something. If you're committed to bone, Lynn Hannings sells a powder (described as caustic ash?) that actually does work to soften the bone fairly quickly. I'd have to go back through my notes but my vague memory is that you mix it about 1:3 or 4 with boiling water then soak the tip for like an hour. Take it out, rinse and clamp it in a form, along with the ebony veneer (itself pre-softened in boiling water), slightly more curved than the face of the bow and let them dry. The form can be a simple band sawed piece of wood. Lynn still sells the stuff: https://shop.lahbows.com/collections/tools-stuff/products/soda
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