bengreen

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  1. HI Nathan, There's one mechanical method you might try before going into destructo mode. If you (carefully) glue some wood to the pearl, it gives you something you can give some sharp whacks to break a hopefully brittle bond (or too tight a square machined fit.). I usually use CA but probably hide glue would give the best shear strength. Some caveats: Obviously, control where glue flows or you've just made matters worse. Give thought to how you support the frog. You can easily damage it. Especially vulnerable the front of the underslide and thumb projection if you’re tempted to press them against your bench as a backstop. You may end up separating the shell from its backing. No biggie. Repeat for the backing and glue them back together or make a new backing. If all works well you'll have to remove the added wood from the pearl. You can pare or file it down to where it's just paper thin and then moisten the remaining fibers with acetone and they'll rub off.
  2. What a nightmare the bedbugs were. Forget about the Raid, or any fogger claiming to kill them. I had to literally drown them in like a tablespoon of direct spray before I made any impression on them. Finally, like others, had success with Diatomaceous Earth. After two weeks or so they were gone. But the stuff is nasty and hard on vacuum cleaner bags. Blocks them up completely in minutes.
  3. Saw an ad for a 5 string bass with a stub extension to take it down to a rumbling Ab. Apparently the owner played a lot in theater pits and sawed off the scroll to maneuver through low doorways. He used magnets to hold the pieces together for decoration when he played above ground.
  4. Thank you for the Stumpy site reference. Thoroughly enjoying it. They didn't just go cheap, they completely re-engineered the wide blade platform and Tormek jig to much more rigid solutions than the OEM offerings, addressing at least half of my issues. I may go there, but.... I finally broke down and bought the new version of the Alberti disc sander. It's not only useful for my primary purpose, shaping the angled heads of bows and trimming face plates, but as a sloooooowwwww sharpener where heat just isn't an issue. Extremely rigid, has a vernier fine tilt adjustment, fast easy grit change, and table height moveable to give a belt sander like scratch pattern if needed.... Amazing tool though also much heavier (and pricier) than it's predecessor. I think I'll be doing most of my flat sharpening on it for now if for no other reason than to recoup some of the investment.
  5. Unless I'm missing something, above link is US site and cost is USD $389. Your first link was Maple Leaf in upper right and cost Canadian $479.
  6. I've got Work Sharp system. Can't recommend it. Looks great on paper but: 1. Turntable bearings poor, disc wobbles; 2. Sanding discs rapidly overheat tools and are messy to change. Magnetic diamond disc alternatives (and cloth disc for polishing) actually work decently and run very cool but pricey and diamonds wear too quickly for the price. 3. Bar which allows Tormek jigs works but also very wobbly. 4. Best luck I've had is with the flat platform that mounts next to the turntable and then using it in conjunction with my Veritas rolling jigs. But the plane of the platform needs to be parallel with turntable and the level adjustment is just weird, it's not positive or repeatable at all. By the time you've incrementally bought all the attachments trying to get it working right, you realize you could have just bought a better system in the first place.
  7. Thanks for the topic Rue. My guitar had been languishing in its case the last couple of years. Got it out again last night. Forgot how cozy and intimate an instrument it is. And nice to discover it doesn't irritate my increasingly shredded shoulder the way the bass I'm paid to play does.
  8. Have no idea if this is overkill or not but one teacher told me they soaked all their hair bundles in the tub (and let it dry as a bundle) before use because of having been burned by unscrupulous sources that stretched their hair before sale (longer hair fetches higher prices). The idea was to get the bundle back to its natural length beforehand rather than risk it shrinking on the bow. BTW their technique was one of Jerry's options: minimal wetting during rehair just to tame the combing. Does this actually happen with wholesalers? And would soaking restore the hair?
  9. What's the size issue for you? Greater stretch lengthwise between notes vs violin, width of fingerboard for barring chords or reaching your arm around the body to get your right hand in position? Different scale lengths are available without having to drop from an acoustically decent sounding box down a plunky, tinny travel size. A guitar that sounds yuck isn't going to encourage practise any more than a yuck violin. The only crossover I ever tried had close nylon string spacing on a crowned fingerboard. Didn't really work for classical. Probably a reason different styles of music have gravitated to different styles of guitar. I like glebert's recommendation. Some of your discomfort may be self induced. And a teacher conversant with multiple styles could probably help you zero in on an instrument.
  10. If you've not heard anything by Monday, let me know. I have #'s for some Pfretzschners and a couple of others at home that I can send you (I'm out of town right now). Generally hair a bit longer (21.5" to 22") and stick thicknesses about 1mm less than French bass bows. Also head smaller and usually narrower. Reid Hudson has some measures for two of his models on his web site. A lot of bass players like his bows. For some reason I can't seem to paste the address here but a search of his name and "bows" will get you there.
  11. Trouble is most bluetooth speakers I've tried have active equalization built in that favors the sounds that kids prefer: heavy, thumping bass that muddies up the mix too much for classical music. And to get that thump in a small package, they almost always incorporate passive radiators which introduce massive latency issues. BTW, I'm talking portable speakers. Haven't tried larger systems. In any event, pay attention to Bluetooth version. There's still lots of 2.0 stuff out there (including older phones) that didn't have enough bandwidth for high fidelity. Newer versions are much improved.
  12. Any idea what sequence of events was used to accomplish the Tourte inner ring? Don't know how common it is but I've taken to using a heavier gauge of silver on the bow end of three part buttons so it's not quite so worrying a possibility of cutting all the way through the silver when turning the collar. But sometimes I want to keep things lighter and am curious about thickening just the collar portion.
  13. Heat source isn't the issue. It would still be a stamp manipulated from a distance, i.e. at the end of a handle long enough to protect your fingers. Think of it like setting a neck. Unlike a cowboy aiming for the rump of a calf, the target facet for your branding iron is about 5-ish mm tall. You have x, y position to control (along the length, height of the facet), 3 rotation axes (slant to be parallel with the facet and 2 tilts so the depth of the impression is even top to bottom and from beginning to end of the lettering), as well as a z axis of how deep to go (how much pressure to exert and for how long). Then there there's the heat itself: not hot enough and you don't get much penetration, too hot and you burn a deep unwanted mortise into the side of the stick. The branding iron itself cuts off some of your view of the target and the whole schmear happens within about 2 seconds of contact with very little in the way of adjustment possible and no second chances. Are we having fun yet? I keep telling myself I'll build a guide jig to take some of the wobblies out of the process one of these days but never seem to get around to it.
  14. Answer lies in your question. Most bow makers would prefer those careful hands not be reduced to charred, smoking stumps. As mentioned previously: Branding iron... Hot!