bengreen

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  1. I love the concept. Have they held up well in use?
  2. I went with plan 1 -1/2 and it's held up for 3 or 4 years now. Neck-graft-ish but chiseling below the base--and for the full length--of the existing mortise to expose three large surfaces for long grain gluing. Then re-carve the throat and the mortise. Extremely important to support the sides of the head before beginning. I glued some maybe 5 mm thick basswood sticks I had left over from when I used to use them for spreaders. They worked fine and were easy to file away later. I probably have some pics if you opt for the low tech approach. BTW someone mentioned just gluing the blown out piece back in place. The reason I had to do the graft was because someone before me had tried the simple glue job and it failed the first time the hair was tightened. There's just not enough gluing surface for such a highly stressed area. When Jerry mentions roller coaster exciting, the picture that comes to mind is your (what you thought was) adequately supported bow head jumping out of place as soon a machine powered force is placed upon it and mayhem happening before you can hit the off switch. A mill head is going to exert more driving force than say a rotary saw doing a spline. It's a tricky shape to secure. Good luck.
  3. Maybe it would help if you reframe the original question. Was there a problem you're having with your tips that led you to look at that tool?
  4. But I get the impression a lot of folks here are talking bone. And I suspect a lot of these bows are going to perhaps future professionals but at the moment sword fights and chewed heads aren't out of the question. Mammoth might be a bit much.
  5. A machinist student in one of Lynn's classes made me forms similar to Fiddler 45's pic out of heavy steel ingots. They retain heat like crazy but the down side of that is you're going "ooch, ouch" while handling them. They work great but wood works fine too. And the wood you can customize easily. Just a bandsaw cut in a block of wood a little deeper than the final curve you want. That nick you see helps to avoid inadvertently prying off the vertical part of the tip (which rotates in towards the wood when you tighten the clamp). And there was the warning to put a piece of paper between wood and tip to prevent any colorant in the wood staining the tip.
  6. Pic helps a lot. Thanks. Organic stuff really doesn't hold up very well. Easy to disregard when it looks so lovely to start out.
  7. Normally agree that white lapping looks tacky, but here the black and white mirror exactly the tiles on the button and visually tie things together. I've never done other than simple pearl insets so can't judge fleur and am the last person to ask about authenticity. But that head looks beautiful to me and the workmanship very high level. How does it play?
  8. I get it why people would use Mammoth exclusively, beautiful and easy to work. Crossing borders with it though...risky. But is there a reason no one is mentioning Tip Armor or Casein as an alternative to bone? They're slightly more expensive than bone but lots easier to work. Your time has to be worth something. If you're committed to bone, Lynn Hannings sells a powder (described as caustic ash?) that actually does work to soften the bone fairly quickly. I'd have to go back through my notes but my vague memory is that you mix it about 1:3 or 4 with boiling water then soak the tip for like an hour. Take it out, rinse and clamp it in a form, along with the ebony veneer (itself pre-softened in boiling water), slightly more curved than the face of the bow and let them dry. The form can be a simple band sawed piece of wood. Lynn still sells the stuff: https://shop.lahbows.com/collections/tools-stuff/products/soda
  9. In today's Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/science/2019/jun/17/reversible-superglue-proves-strong-enough-to-hold-average-man Apparently they glued a butterfly wing and unglued it without any tissue damage. The vegan in me should object but in reality it's a lot easier being veggie in the kitchen than the workshop.
  10. For what it's worth...both tracts are rabbit holes I fell into and wasted way too much time with. It's wood. You don't need to be that technical. It won't do anything for the quality of your bows. Most sticks can be adequately defined by grads at six evenly spaced points connected by long smooth planing.
  11. I remember trying a bass made by David Weibe for his wife Sue (Lipkins). Walnut. It sounded exactly like it looked: dark, rich, mellow. I wish alternative woods worked as well with bows. Sent you PM regards template.
  12. Congrats Joey! It's about time for a FB dressing on my 5-String this summer (probably do some pearl dots at the same time--doesn't seem to be such an act of shame anymore). I've got your article flagged.
  13. Firefox has an issue right now where all the certifications for ad blockers and other plugins show as expired and are disabled. A fix is in the works but there's a work around by adjusting a value in about:config. I can look it up again of anyone needs.
  14. Sorry for the side trip there. I had a friend's bow blow out the entire underside in front of the frog for about 2 inches. Shown to a local bow repair expert, he told me to go away. Called Lynn Hannings, my former teacher, and she recommended I rebuild the area using G-2 epoxy. I did so, covering with as much original wood as I could find. Three years in, it's still playing professionally. I wonder, there still a reasonable amount of structure under the nibbling, if it's feasible to use Jerry's optical epoxy technique, perhaps with some transtint added to match the color. It would give both structural strength and a workable surface. And it wouldn't prevent you from eventually doing a graft.
  15. Unfortunately, I haven't found logins to work on archived pages, though sometimes search boxes do. If you couldn't enter without a pass, than neither could the crawler. If your photos were displayed openly on web pages like my friends were, it's pretty easy to just right click on them and download. If right clicking is disabled you can have your browser display the page source code and they'll usually be a media tab where you can see all the images and vids in one place with a handy download button. The cynical me says EVERYTHING is saved somewhere. The folks at Wayback are one of the more benevolent parties doing so. In the case of Lucchi, the results may not have gone back far enough if we weren't entering the Url he had originally used for his site. Wayback began crawling the web in 2001. Any luck contacting the folks you found on whois?