bengreen

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  1. Pic helps a lot. Thanks. Organic stuff really doesn't hold up very well. Easy to disregard when it looks so lovely to start out.
  2. Normally agree that white lapping looks tacky, but here the black and white mirror exactly the tiles on the button and visually tie things together. I've never done other than simple pearl insets so can't judge fleur and am the last person to ask about authenticity. But that head looks beautiful to me and the workmanship very high level. How does it play?
  3. I get it why people would use Mammoth exclusively, beautiful and easy to work. Crossing borders with it though...risky. But is there a reason no one is mentioning Tip Armor or Casein as an alternative to bone? They're slightly more expensive than bone but lots easier to work. Your time has to be worth something. If you're committed to bone, Lynn Hannings sells a powder (described as caustic ash?) that actually does work to soften the bone fairly quickly. I'd have to go back through my notes but my vague memory is that you mix it about 1:3 or 4 with boiling water then soak the tip for like an hour. Take it out, rinse and clamp it in a form, along with the ebony veneer (itself pre-softened in boiling water), slightly more curved than the face of the bow and let them dry. The form can be a simple band sawed piece of wood. Lynn still sells the stuff: https://shop.lahbows.com/collections/tools-stuff/products/soda
  4. In today's Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/science/2019/jun/17/reversible-superglue-proves-strong-enough-to-hold-average-man Apparently they glued a butterfly wing and unglued it without any tissue damage. The vegan in me should object but in reality it's a lot easier being veggie in the kitchen than the workshop.
  5. For what it's worth...both tracts are rabbit holes I fell into and wasted way too much time with. It's wood. You don't need to be that technical. It won't do anything for the quality of your bows. Most sticks can be adequately defined by grads at six evenly spaced points connected by long smooth planing.
  6. I remember trying a bass made by David Weibe for his wife Sue (Lipkins). Walnut. It sounded exactly like it looked: dark, rich, mellow. I wish alternative woods worked as well with bows. Sent you PM regards template.
  7. Congrats Joey! It's about time for a FB dressing on my 5-String this summer (probably do some pearl dots at the same time--doesn't seem to be such an act of shame anymore). I've got your article flagged.
  8. Firefox has an issue right now where all the certifications for ad blockers and other plugins show as expired and are disabled. A fix is in the works but there's a work around by adjusting a value in about:config. I can look it up again of anyone needs.
  9. Sorry for the side trip there. I had a friend's bow blow out the entire underside in front of the frog for about 2 inches. Shown to a local bow repair expert, he told me to go away. Called Lynn Hannings, my former teacher, and she recommended I rebuild the area using G-2 epoxy. I did so, covering with as much original wood as I could find. Three years in, it's still playing professionally. I wonder, there still a reasonable amount of structure under the nibbling, if it's feasible to use Jerry's optical epoxy technique, perhaps with some transtint added to match the color. It would give both structural strength and a workable surface. And it wouldn't prevent you from eventually doing a graft.
  10. Unfortunately, I haven't found logins to work on archived pages, though sometimes search boxes do. If you couldn't enter without a pass, than neither could the crawler. If your photos were displayed openly on web pages like my friends were, it's pretty easy to just right click on them and download. If right clicking is disabled you can have your browser display the page source code and they'll usually be a media tab where you can see all the images and vids in one place with a handy download button. The cynical me says EVERYTHING is saved somewhere. The folks at Wayback are one of the more benevolent parties doing so. In the case of Lucchi, the results may not have gone back far enough if we weren't entering the Url he had originally used for his site. Wayback began crawling the web in 2001. Any luck contacting the folks you found on whois?
  11. When you're interested in a site that's no longer up, give the wayback machine a try. Go to www.archive.org and enter the old url (or just try a keyword search). I ran the lucchicremona through and found 43 hits going back to 2014. Their crawler usually worms through sites about a half a dozen clicks deep, so you may not be able to access all of the content. I did this with a luthier friend who thought all her photos from previous work as a sculptor were lost when she dropped her old webpage. We found and were able to download them all via the wayback. Luckily her site wasn't that heavily layered, so the crawler got it all.
  12. HI Nathan, There's one mechanical method you might try before going into destructo mode. If you (carefully) glue some wood to the pearl, it gives you something you can give some sharp whacks to break a hopefully brittle bond (or too tight a square machined fit.). I usually use CA but probably hide glue would give the best shear strength. Some caveats: Obviously, control where glue flows or you've just made matters worse. Give thought to how you support the frog. You can easily damage it. Especially vulnerable the front of the underslide and thumb projection if you’re tempted to press them against your bench as a backstop. You may end up separating the shell from its backing. No biggie. Repeat for the backing and glue them back together or make a new backing. If all works well you'll have to remove the added wood from the pearl. You can pare or file it down to where it's just paper thin and then moisten the remaining fibers with acetone and they'll rub off.
  13. What a nightmare the bedbugs were. Forget about the Raid, or any fogger claiming to kill them. I had to literally drown them in like a tablespoon of direct spray before I made any impression on them. Finally, like others, had success with Diatomaceous Earth. After two weeks or so they were gone. But the stuff is nasty and hard on vacuum cleaner bags. Blocks them up completely in minutes.
  14. Saw an ad for a 5 string bass with a stub extension to take it down to a rumbling Ab. Apparently the owner played a lot in theater pits and sawed off the scroll to maneuver through low doorways. He used magnets to hold the pieces together for decoration when he played above ground.
  15. Thank you for the Stumpy site reference. Thoroughly enjoying it. They didn't just go cheap, they completely re-engineered the wide blade platform and Tormek jig to much more rigid solutions than the OEM offerings, addressing at least half of my issues. I may go there, but.... I finally broke down and bought the new version of the Alberti disc sander. It's not only useful for my primary purpose, shaping the angled heads of bows and trimming face plates, but as a sloooooowwwww sharpener where heat just isn't an issue. Extremely rigid, has a vernier fine tilt adjustment, fast easy grit change, and table height moveable to give a belt sander like scratch pattern if needed.... Amazing tool though also much heavier (and pricier) than it's predecessor. I think I'll be doing most of my flat sharpening on it for now if for no other reason than to recoup some of the investment.