Andreas Preuss

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About Andreas Preuss

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    humble craftsman

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    delgesu1735@yahoo.com

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    Tokyo

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  1. So here is the latest graph after a few sound adjustments though. I waited by purpose a month, knowing that the playing characteristics need to settle in. Presumably this is a stretch in effect. So now its a flat walnut back. Graduations made from the outside with the goal of creating a thicker Island in the center. So I was removing wood only in the upper and lower bout. In the center I touched only the bass side C bout area. So very roughly (measured with a Hacklinger) it looks like 5mm between the C bouts except on the bass side where it goes down to 4.5. Upper bout thinnest spot aroun
  2. @Don Noon The neck should have dropped by now maybe 2-3 mm?
  3. Fantasies are the wings to lift the mind to the truth! I always thought the central pin hole is more to get an idea of the arching height, so when you see a small dot while planing the outside arch you know where you are. (or better just leave the nail inside.) Over time it seems that makers like GDG moved the pin hole a bit upwards. Maybe this was for double purpose, arching height ( a bit off center doesn't matter) and for marking the thickest spot on the back. With your idea there would be a a sort of triple purpose.
  4. Testing glues right now for this kind of repair.
  5. Tomorrow I have to steal some LEGO parts from my kids! That's great!
  6. I have to confess that the chisel there wasn't made by me, though it is entirely hand forged. The credit goes to Stefan Valcuha who took in Renes shop a big concrete nail, a forged it with the help of a burner to what it is now, saying something like 'You need a purfling picker? Here we go!'
  7. Thanks! It needs a bit trial and error to set the needle fixture to the rail. But once it works, it works. At the beginning you need to get the right feel to hold the wood piece and maybe you mess up one or two. The most surprising compliment I got for it was 'C'est pas bete'. (Guess you know who said it)
  8. The thing is, more than often our premade assumptions prevent us to explore new variables of the existing concept. I have to say clearly that making alterations and expecting a ‘positive’ result just by doing it, usually doesn’t work. Each alteration needs the sound re-calibration for the entire structure mostly to get rid of the negative side effects.
  9. @Don Noon Finally had some time to listen to the YouTube with earphones. It has an interesting smokelike nasalness to me. Its just the right dosis and evenly distributed on all strings giving your instrument a distincive sound. It seems to react pretty well to the bow too. Hard to judge from a video, but never got the impression that the violinist had to fight against the instrument. I like the timbre of E and A string the best. If I had made this violin I would put the following improvements on my list Work on getting more depth on the lower strings. One could say that t
  10. Hmmm sounds almost as if we were talking about Chemo therapy. You get rid of the disease but the side effects will kill you anyway. I only noticed that on my new concept violin there are some abnormalities for the signature modes, despite it sounds pretty good. So now I am looking into some well examined changes to get the result I want. At least, reversing bass bar and sound post is always reversible to the original.
  11. Pretty cool. What is the weight of the finished fiddle? I mean in terms of aircraft engineering it should be as light as possible. (Guess why I am asking.)
  12. Yes, this can be seen on those holographic pictures. If this would work, it would be a quite new and elegant approach in killing the wolf. This is something which extremely matters to players.
  13. I think damping is only necessary on the top plate. For wolf notes I thought it has more to do with the thickness and arching of the top. The lower and the thinner the more likely you will have a wolf, or not?
  14. I didn’t go too much into cello acoustics so far. There is a chance that for low sounding instruments the bass bar must be under the bass side bridge foot. Thanks for the response.