HoGo

One should decide whether the vibrations of the angle grinder or similar powerful motor and associated collateral damage to hands holding it are not worse than use of gouges. Perhaps gouges pushed by upper torso a'la chinese workers at factories or planes pulled by both hands may be better alternative.

here? https://www.dictum.com/en/herdim-reamers-drills-jbg/herdim-peg-reamer-violin-pointed-spiral-edges-uncoated-730523

I guess they call common EU beech (fagus sylvatica) "red" becaise it's heartwood is reddish/pinkish..

I don't think any producer of laminated woods uses hide glue. I wonder what thickness are the laminates in the Ebonprex? Is it layered like a plywood (but in one direction) or thicker pieces glued together.

I looked up red beech and see only references to NZ/AU and south africa species of trees. :-) If you color/densify/laminate thin layers of wood the result is just as much impregnated by glue as the resin impregnated type.

He doesn't say it straight, but general rule on evilbay and similar sites is that if the seller doesn't say MADE BY XY but rather just notes that the violin bears label of XY means it is NOT real. If he states violin by XY and you 'll find out it is fake you can open dispute and try to get your money back.

Here it is for sale: https://www.carousell.sg/p/good-european-violin-20th-century-1227254333/

I'm far from expert but the quality of the label looks like a photocopy. May be just a camera/flash effect but there are hundreds of violins on ebaly looking much like this with fake labels of made up or existing deceased makers.

I think the general dendrochronologies are good for general dating of ancient wooden objects but folks like Ratcliff specifically date violins and do comparisons to spruce used on violins of various regions. Some of such data may be public but I guess the exact measurements of the old valuable violins may be in posession of the few folks who do this (for living?). If the whole data set was public, anyone with some skill in matlab or python or other computing language/package could do their own dendro...

DOn't panic It's impossible to tell from just one posted picture from smartphone with lot of optical distortion and possibly also adjusted by the SW in camera. That can be VERY deceiving so folks here can detect all kinds of POSSIBLE things (folks here like to speculate) but that doesn't mean it's actually so. As I noted above maybe your bridge just got kicked and shifted a tiny bit to bass side in your case and you just need to put it back and all is well...

You can pull out your violin and safely rehearse all the way and if you put your hat in front of you you may even end up with some profit

I guess the felt is there just to protect top while it is installed and/or while unstrung. The description tells it's adjustable and the setscrew under fingerboard may supply the adjustment of the elevation of the "tailpiece". You can estimate that thin thing will bend a bit under tension as well.

I don't see anything magnetic in the device. It's wedged in the slot at the base of the neck and the setscrew adjusts it's projection angle and thus break angle of strings. I wonder about difference in tone from standard tailpiece.

My violin also has the e string notch about 1mm closer to edge than the G string slot but the reason is the slight asymmetry of old deformed arching that makes the bridge lean towards G side a bit. Unless I cut bridge with one foot slightly taller I would either have to place it asymmetrically on top or cut the notchess off center. On the OP violin/setup I'd just try to move bridge to the right a bit so the strings are within acceptable limits (whether perfectly symmetric or with more platform for e) and check if the feet are reasonably centered between f-holes. Since the violin looks quite new with no apparent arch deformation or worn spots the fit should still be good.

That is a myth repeated once again. I've tried it and white glue will hold quite well even on liberal layer of old dry white glue. Thickness of such glue layer makes it slightly weaker but still I got 50/50 glue/wood split separation when I tried to break glued spruce sticks. From my experience I would opt for tiny drop of gel CA on sealed surface of form. I've used two tiny drops to glue nuts to end of fretborads of mandolins and they hold well and are easy to separate with single sharp blow of screwdriver handle + sqare poiece of wood. The CA dot is easy to scrape from both surfaces and can be dissolved with acetone if needed.