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  1. I wonder what supplies the Ca into the reaction in the bucket... naturally the Ca(NO3)2 occurs on concrete or mortar of stable walls. Wouldn't addition of lime (or lime water...) help a bit with formation of nitrites? Then add ashes to convert to KNO3? Just musing...
  2. I wonder where the word "better" comes from when folks cannot generally agree whether one violin is better than another one (considering similar provenance). The scientist can measure properties and say the curly maple has significantly "different" properties from plain maple which is quite to be expected as the structure of wood is significantly diffterent from straight grained wood. But whether those values of (some of) the parameters are better suited for making great violins is questionable without building controlled batches of instruments and their proper evaluation (big problem in itself...). I often read violin makers prefer light spruce or high speed of sound or medium density or some other parameter but I don't recall makers bragging about such properties of maple, except few that want dense grain and just about everyone nice wide slanted curl. I did similar research years ago with my friend, we checked about 100 mature maple logs (40cm + diameter) from one single slope of which about 5 had curly grain. 2-3 were good enough for violin making which seems to match the slovenian data. BTW, here is one curly beech I pass around often. Straight tree. When the tree wants to grow curly it will....
  3. I've used anhydrous (99.9+%) alcohol for almost 10 years now and it IS much better than 90 or 95% alcohol for shellac based finishes. I haven't had a shellac go bad even when diluted in bottle for well over two years while with water containing ethanol the shellac generally goes bad in a year or less. Alcohol does absorb water but likely not at crazy speed. https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/14392/ethanol-and-water-hygroscopic-equilibrium-concentration I've used this stuff and I go though a liter or so in few years and it still works the same. The amount of water in the air entering the bottle while I pour some alcohol or in the shellac bottle is negligible even at tropical lever RH. Definitely! I buy anhydrous bioethanol sold as fuel for fireplaces. Here it contains only traces of bitrex to make it undrinkable, otherwise 99.9% ethanol. No poison like methanol. May still be hard to get in some parts of USA.
  4. I haven't heard from any respectable maker that they use curly maple because of acoustic reasons. Most of the makers actually never made violin(s) out of plain maple to compare... Most of old factory violins were made of curly maple and thay sound like they do, some better, some not so much. Natural figure in stump is result of the bend in the wood so the outside fibers necesarily "fold" as their path is shotrer. Visually this is very different from curly pattern. Curly trees are curly along large part of the trunk. In most extreme cases up into thicker branches. The curly pattern gets stronger as the tree grows. It's very likely genetic predisposition of extreme cambium growth. The stump or crotch areas have the curl combined with the natural deformities of wood. I think curly cracks cross-grain much easier than plain maple - rib bending of curly maple tells it clearly.
  5. OMG. After reading the paper I'd like to get the lab-rats to actually make instrument out of the wood to show something. I don't see any proof of anything in the paper. Just comparison of wood properties of samples from two logs. They somehow assume that higher density is better quality wood based upon citation of another paper. These guys pretend they know what makes great instrument but in reality they never made one or most of them don't even play. I know personally few folks from that university department and they are pure theoretics, they can measure wood samples properties, that's all.
  6. Many makers do care if they manage to sell their instruments and eye-catching wood helps a bit as players are the customers... :-)
  7. Here: https://trianglestrings.com/applying-removing-rib-protector/
  8. I don't think so with spruce what happens here is mostly just a form of regeneration of the single plant. The root system of spruce may sprout new trunk or two but will not "migrate" or grow over larger area. They mention possibility of natural layering of spruce but I think that happens less often and only under very specific conditions but certainly not systematic rooting like strawberries or blackberries. I have never seen spruce layering on it's own in the forest (probably because there is shade, bugs that kill damaged trees and way too much plant competition) and even artificial layering or rooting of spruce offcuts is not simple. That old swedish spruce gows in an open almost arctic area so it developed some new tricks to survive.... Plums (I've got plenty of them in garden) or aspen will sprout new tree from root system few meters from the original tree, if you try to dig it out (move it) you'll find out it has almost no own roots, it just grows from long shallow root of the original tree. Eventually it will develop it's own root system but I'm not sure if they are still interconnected under gorund or not. I ususally cut through the main root if I want to keep and replant the new sprout so it grows new roots faster and I can re-plant it in a year. Same applies to aspen, if you won't cut the sprouts you'll have one big forest in few decades. I was thinking more of the forestry researchers. Here, the forester maintains the woodland but most of it is not old growth natural forest but managed forests where owners want to maximize profits.
  9. I think best for this cello would be selling it on evilbay as is. Some beginning luthier might consider it good project to hone (and show up) his skills and in the end he could sell it with no loss...
  10. That is not shared root system but one single surviving root system that sprouts again and again over thousands of years. I think cloning (or vegetative propagation) is more interesting for maple than for spruce for violin makers. There is no consistent answer what properties violin makers want in spruce but certainly there are such in maple - great figure. There are folks who do that. Forresters are mostly interested in fast wood production e.g. good growth with less defects.
  11. You can try Tru-oil, which is commercial product, it is basicly highly modified oil varnish without resins. I've used it on mandolins (and many other makers do) and it works very well. Michael Darnton showed one of his violins few months ago where he used it. Linoxin varnish is spirit varnish where linoxin replaces the basic bulk of resins.
  12. You have to try submerging in pure acetone :-) That works. After reading the OP, I would suggest just using high gram strength hide glue in full strength (no extra water) . That should grab in a minute or so. I'd hold it for two minutes and put it aside to dry in a position that will not create undue stress on the crack. I've used liters of CA but I would not use it here unless it was some junk violin and wanted to do quick&dirty job to make it playable in 15 minutes.
  13. Many del Gesus are barely over 350. 351 or so... They certainly aren't 3/4s
  14. HoGo

    kiln dried wood

    There are many types of kilns these days. From simple heat/air circulation with controlled RH of air to vacuum or microwave systems that work on different principles. Some od them may move some sap/resins from inside to the surface and cause the surface darkening as natural result of the process.
  15. What do you mean by vibrational properties? What does it mean "better" vibration? These are extremely vague terms that may "impress onlookers" but are hardly quantifiable or traceable into quality of instrument. For me every piece of wood is "regular", it's all growing on trees. "Tone"wood dealers often spread BS stories that make beginner thing that "tonewood" is some sacred species growing in secret places known only by them and processed in some special correct manner, but in reality it is JUST wood. 30 years ago I had the same bad understanding when I tried to get some "tone"wood for my first attempts but couldn't locate any local seller, everyone had just regular lumber. It took me few years of reading about wood processing that it is just pieces of wood selected by various criteria that can vary from place to place but generally aesthetics and lack of natural growth defects are the most important to most. After that you can find dealers preferring any other random property from density, speed of sound, crossgrain stiffness etc. Much of my "tone"wood came directly from forest from maple trees that would otherwise end as "regular" lumber or spruce logs or splits that were destined to be sold for firewood but otherwise ticked all the boxes of "tonewood".
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