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  1. I think this one is meant for luthiers: https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/27/21.80 :-)
  2. Probably the biggest factor in depth of absorbtion is the gel time of the glue. Heated surfaces plus thin fish glue will give plenty time to suck in. I once made the mistake and sealed ends of fresh maple billets with slow drying paint (brown)... even though it was as thick as latex paint I used before it got sucked 2" deep into some pores. Luckily, I was able to cut off the ends on most billets and the few brown pores were invisible in sunbursted mandolins.
  3. I think I can see a very similar soundpost crack as well, so likely someone sat on the poor violin (or the case) and caused both cracks at the same time.
  4. I've used this type of repair for split or broken arrows (kind of paleo/indian style). Even if the arrow breks right across (common in arrows of dogwood offshoots) I just cut both parts at 30 degrees add few drops of CA glue and wrap tightly with thin sewing thread, then I smear few drops of thin CA over the whole. It's five minute repair versus much more time to make new arrow. The arrow never breaks in the same spot again. I have some arrows that got this two-three times and now (for good reason) serve as my kids' arrows.
  5. Perhaps something like this, they can ship to lower 48... https://www.amazon.com/Regal-Flame-Signature-Ventless-Fireplace/dp/B06XQ3TG5X?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3 I would read MSDS first to check percentages...
  6. Isn't bioethanol commonly available in the US? Here in EU it is all the rage in fuel - just this january norms for gas changed to allow up to 10% (or15?) of bioethanol in gas. You can buy bioehanol as fuel for stackless fireplaces in various clarity and the one I'm buying is anhydrous with few grams of MEK and bitrex adeed per 1000 liters of the anhydrous. I checked directly with the manufacturer and thay sent me all the MSDS papers and norm sheets concernind bioethanol they produce and the stuff is at least 99.9% ethanol. I've used pharmacy grade pure ethanol (96%) before and also denatured 95% stuff (containing gasoline (lame attempt at translation of our word) as denaturant, as used in hospitals for desinfication) but this bioethanol is the best for spirit varnishes and FP by a LONG shot. I posted more about that last year. The best thing is 1 liter goes for under 2 Euro...
  7. Well I didn't actually BUY any of those instruments new. I'm not that old. I was given the guitar when I was 10 or so and found the mandolins later in attic (they are the most common attic find around here aside from old broken fiddles). The first of the mandolins had totally destroyed top and that is what brought me to luthiery - I made a new top out of spruce shingles - so I guess I should be gratefull to the company :-)
  8. Hand up here :-) I had all plywood child guitar and few mandolins made in 70's or so when I was young... But they were all that was available here (and common folks could afford) back then... This factory was what remained of the schonbach industry during communist era and they struggled since 90's to keep pace with Asian and Romanian imports. Heck, I almost fofrgot I have one of those old plywood boxes for my kids to strum on. Good for campfires and canoe trips :-).
  9. The temperature difference between the outside and inside air causes drop in humidity inside the box. If the rise of temperature is not too high and you use some way of adding moisture to the incoming air you should be fine. But using some trustworthy hygrometer to check it before you sticjk your nice new violin in is better than finding a open seam or worse open centerjoint on your newest instrument.
  10. I used to use suntanning tubes years ago and for me the distance was as close as possible for best effect of the light but far enough from heat that could cause cracking which would be my main concern. You should find out how much heat your setup generates and avoid overheating (and overdrying) the space inside the UV cabinet. Use ventialtion and moisture source to keep the box safe fr the instrument. You can stick your hygrometer inside for few hours close to the tube and check recorded maximum temp and min/max humidity...
  11. I visited the Vasa museum and it is treated with PEG1000 (polyethylene glycol). There is section in the museum that explains the process applied to the ship after it was pulled out. ther eare some wood samples that were left untreated just to show comparison how the wood degenerates after drying.
  12. I cut two billets of similar blue spruce that was cut at local cemetery... even in the clear parts there will be some knots deep inside, the blue spruce is planted as ornamental because it has lots of branches as young tree. The tree I cut had very little twist under bark (you can notice that when you remove the bark) but the central part of 5-6" diameter twisted really lot making my first split into halves pull quite a bit of wood from central parts. The grain count was something like 3-4 gpi so nothing a respectable violin maker would touch even with 10" stick. I got some compression wood as well.... I still have the wood at our weekend house drying in the attic... I just can't throw away wood.
  13. I wish there would be internet and this back when I started: https://fixitwithshading.com/csvm-construction-log/ (gives good overview what's taught at VM school)
  14. I personally think that we should keep up with the age we are living in. The schools were the only one good way of learning in the past before books became widely available. Now in the age of internet and almost unlimited instant access to information the game changed a bit. Like most of the succesful programmers learned to code themselves and from communication with others (mostly via internet these days) I believe you can learn most any other job this way if you have good critical thinking and patience. When I started there was no VM school around and books in library were very few. After internet the door opened widely for me and saved me lots of experimenting and learning from my own mistakes (I posted some time ago how I heated my first batch of hide glue). Few years later they opened a VM course at local high school and I visited the workshop just to see what they are doing (few friends of mine studied there) and already then (I have rad and absorbed every book on VM and woodwork available) I saw that what they are doing/learning is not really that great way of dong it. I even enrolled in the school well AFTER my university studies and just to get the "papers" (law allowed luthiery work just to persons with the certificate from school) but I quit it within few months before I got into the building when the laws changed. The school course lasted 10 years or so before they closed it later. Now, almost two decades later I can see that NONE of the school absolvents became luthiers. From about 150 or so... I don't know about success rate of other schools, but for me, not going there was the good decision... The only problem is with hand skills that noone sees over your work and corrects you immediately but with some patience and intelligence that can be overcome.
  15. You can also use white glue for sealing endgrain. I've used latex paint in past or even ordinary white wall paint in a pinch (on spruce) and it worked well.