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About bkwood

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    Northern California

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  1. Any theories on what caused this damage?

    Hard to say for sure. They look like gouges to me, that have filled in with gunk of some kind, maybe someone trying to disappear bare wood. Shoulder rests are probably a frequent cause of damage for people who, like me, are always trying to fit their rest in the case somehow.
  2. Any theories on what caused this damage?

    It could have been where the previous owner stashed the shoulder rest in the case.
  3. Saving the mold

    By full thickness do you mean as thick as the ribs are wide?
  4. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I am a fiddler, of the folk and bluegrass kind, and probably don't get to the upper positions enough to notice such subtle shaping. I will pay more attention now, though.
  5. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Thanks for that clarification, David. It was not clear to me until now. Makes sense in a way. Especially if it keeps the players happy.
  6. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Okay then. New to me, and I don't see it on the violins I have. And on the violins I make it's never occurred to me to leave anything but a straight line on the joint. Nor do I see why it would result from shaping the fingerboard, unless, I guess, one is trying to compensate to keep the edge of the fingerboard exactly the same all the way along despite the scoop. Is that what we're talking about, an itty-bitty variation of width in the edge of the fingerboard? If so, I vote to keep the joint line straight. Granted, I am self-taught, so tell me any advantage to doing otherwise. It seems to make little sense to me still...
  7. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I'm not trying to be dense, but I would call that convexity. Concave describes an inward curve. I suspect I'm still not getting something though, so if you'll indulge me...
  8. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I am confused. Do you mean convex? Or are you describing something I am not getting?
  9. Saving the mold

    Piece of cake!
  10. violin linings

    I tried spruce for the the linings of my first violin. On another I tried red cedar for some reason. That was very hard to bend without breaking. Lately I use poplar. I seem to always have scraps around because I use it for paint grade cabinets, and it's readily available on the west coast. It's fairly light, bends nicely and is easy to trim to shape after it's in.
  11. Saving the mold

    Success! Thanks again. And the David Sora video was good.
  12. Saving the mold

    Thanks everybody. I do have linings on both sides. I've always done that because it seems to me it sets the shape better that way. I haven't trimmed my blocks any yet. That's a good idea. And keep my nerve. Back to it.
  13. Saving the mold

    I should have mastered this by now. I am ready to remove the garland from around the mold on my 6th violin (which is going to be a five string). Each time before I have ended up cutting it out, or using a collapsible form I made. I made a new mold for this violin, telling myself I wouldn't be timid about getting it off this time. And yet, I can't seem to do it. The ends don't want to clear the linings. Is there a trick?
  14. Soundpost setter review

    Yes, it works very well. I usually use it to get the post roughly in position, then use a standard S shaped setter to push and pull post into final position. Then gently pull the clip from the post.
  15. aniline dye

    Sorry about that. I see some discussion about faded dye there, but not specifically aniline dye.