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About bkwood

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  1. bkwood

    Viola Bass Bar

    I'm making my 1st viola, small - about 15 5/8". I am shaping the bass bar now, and made the profile similar to my violins except longer. I am wondering how much taller than a violin bass bar it should be. I am thinking maybe not too much. Welcome any advice.
  2. Old growth Redwood top. It didn't sound too bad.
  3. I am starting a couple small violas, and the material I have for the ribs isn't long enough for a one piece lower bout. I have never done a 2 piece bout on a violin before. Is it a bad idea for any reason? Is some kind of small contrasting inlay between the pieces good, or clean butt joint the best?
  4. Just so I'm clear, do your neck joints hold together mechanically? Or are we dealing with semantics?
  5. I was a cabinet maker before making violins. Dovetail joint as commonly understood is a mechanical joint. It locks together. The violin neck joint relies on glue to work. Maybe Jerry does dovetail joints on his necks, but it isn't common. And if his argument is that he gets to define dovetail joint to mean what he wants, well whatever.
  6. For what it's worth I have never atered the varnish for the f holes. It seems a natural shadow line is enough. I have only built a few violins however, and I confess it never occurred to me before.
  7. So long Addie. I enjoyed his posts too.
  8. Hide glue is a must for any joint that would ever need to come apart for any reason. For anything else, including center joint seams, I can't see that it matters.
  9. Judging what survives my dishwasher I'd think avacado glue is worth a try.
  10. Gorilla glue, if one were to use it, uses a slight amount of moisture to go off. Once it's set it is impervious to water. I have used it a lot in exterior general construction, and occasionally cabinetry. I don't know what advantage it would have on a violin except for the noted high humidity regions. In those areas whatever else happened to the fiddle the glue joints would never fail.
  11. One problem with Gorilla glue (if you're even serious which maybe you aren't) is that it expands as it cures, so parts need to be clamped well or will push apart with foam in between.
  12. Where is the post you speak of? I agree by the way, that Don's posts are invaluable.
  13. I agree. It may or may not be easy to clamp, but if it fits cleanly there is no need. Excessive pressure isn't called for with hide glue, good fit is. A couple minutes holding with your fingers is enough to set the pieces together, then set it aside overnight.
  14. That happened to me once. I was hollowing out the pegbox and levered my chisle too hard against the scroll. At first I was shocked. Then I saw that the split was perfectly clean. So I took a picture of the peghead with the scoll facing backward, for laughs. Then I glued the piece back on with hide glue and hand pressure for a few minutes. I didn't show at all and I don't even remember which fiddle it was anymore. Hopefully, your split is clean. Even if it's not perfect just glue it together as well as you can and see what the result is.