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About bkwood

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  1. Looking for spatula

    I use a set of feeler gauges.
  2. Seeking Arching Templets

    I have made 3 fiddles using the top template you providedand they all have a distinctly different sound from the first 3 fiddles I made using Strobel templets. I have used wood from the same tree for all these fiddles. For my style of playing (folk and bluegrass) I prefer the grittiness (I guess I would call it) I get from your templet. The last of these fiddles was a 5 string, carving the top the same, and keeping scale length the same, just widening the neck and adding half an inch to the peg head. The result is pretty good tonewise, but the C string, being short, is a little harder to draw a tone from - different from the other strings anyway.
  3. Dimensions and shape/profile of linings

    I do this every time and could never understand why it isn't the standard way to go. Never had a problem .
  4. Bonmusica Shoulder Rest?

    It's too bad the Bon Musica chin rest is constructed so clumsily. It's like somebody fooled around with an erector set to make it. In fact, having all that metal so close to the back made me nervous when putting it on or taking it off. I gave up on it as too clunky, though the general idea of it is good if it could be manufactured better.
  5. Nut groove

    In my opinion trying to match the string diameter is a lost cause. If the width of the groove is slightly small it will pinch the string with unpredictable results. If too big the string will rest on one point at the bottom of the groove and able to move from side to side. A small triangular file will make a groove for each string with the correct depth being the only issue. The string will bear evenly on two points near the bottom of the groove without being pinched or too loose.
  6. Nut groove

    The only epoxy I use is thick and I assume EpiGlue would be too. I realize now, reading your post, that I misspoke, or whatever you would call it. I meant to say fine Ebony dust, not epoxy dust. It takes very little. Just sand a scrap and pick up the dust on the edge of a knife or something, and lay it into the old nut slot, pressing down a little. (First put some tape to shield either side of your repair). Then put a drop of cyanoacrylate (super glue) which will soak right in. Ten minutes later file it down and cut a new slot. I actually did this today when I wanted to change the spacing of strings on my new 5 string violin. Worked great.
  7. Nut groove

    Pack fine epoxy dust in the old groove, then add a drop cyanoacrylate.
  8. Saving the mold

    I've thought of making a mold like that. But how do you keep the shape of the garland when gluing in linings after removing it from the mold?
  9. Any theories on what caused this damage?

    Hard to say for sure. They look like gouges to me, that have filled in with gunk of some kind, maybe someone trying to disappear bare wood. Shoulder rests are probably a frequent cause of damage for people who, like me, are always trying to fit their rest in the case somehow.
  10. Any theories on what caused this damage?

    It could have been where the previous owner stashed the shoulder rest in the case.
  11. Saving the mold

    By full thickness do you mean as thick as the ribs are wide?
  12. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I am a fiddler, of the folk and bluegrass kind, and probably don't get to the upper positions enough to notice such subtle shaping. I will pay more attention now, though.
  13. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Thanks for that clarification, David. It was not clear to me until now. Makes sense in a way. Especially if it keeps the players happy.
  14. Violin neck (side) concavity

    Okay then. New to me, and I don't see it on the violins I have. And on the violins I make it's never occurred to me to leave anything but a straight line on the joint. Nor do I see why it would result from shaping the fingerboard, unless, I guess, one is trying to compensate to keep the edge of the fingerboard exactly the same all the way along despite the scoop. Is that what we're talking about, an itty-bitty variation of width in the edge of the fingerboard? If so, I vote to keep the joint line straight. Granted, I am self-taught, so tell me any advantage to doing otherwise. It seems to make little sense to me still...
  15. Violin neck (side) concavity

    I'm not trying to be dense, but I would call that convexity. Concave describes an inward curve. I suspect I'm still not getting something though, so if you'll indulge me...