• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bkwood

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Northern California

Recent Profile Visitors

1388 profile views
  1. Might as well throw my two cents in as an Old Time/Bluegrass player. If you're playing classical music you're not going to want these I'm told. But after using Helicores for a long time I switched to Prims Orchestra (heavy) stainless steel strings. They're relativly inexpensive and have a good response and last forever. Highly recommended on my side of the tracks.
  2. Bandsaw. I think trying to rough out f holes with the scroll saw would be more tedious than it's worth. I use a knife. I cut the sides of the f holes perpendicular to the curving top which would be hard with a scroll saw.
  3. Yes, I know many think that. Certain techniques are kind of a religion among woodworkers and I understand that and for the most part admire it. My joints are very good, even invisible, and let's just agree to disagree if you want to believe otherwise.
  4. Like was said just cut through the joint with a table saw or what ever. I always make my boards extra wide so I can do this a time or two if necessary. Also, if your glue is too thick the boards sometimes do not mate perfectly giving the problem you describe. PS Nobody on this forum likes this, but if you're having trouble making a perfectly matching joint using a plane, you can set up a perfectly straight sanding board (I use an old 24" level on its side) and glue sandpaper to each edge. Put 120 grit on one side, and 240 grit on the other. I clamp it to the top of my table saw. Don't use too much pressure. I get perfect joints from this no matter what they say. Planing is great and rewarding if you get good results, but in the end the point is a good glue joint, however achieved.
  5. I'm curious how you would persuade the crack to close. If it was amenable to being closed it likely wouldn't be open. I think adding wood as David says is probably the way. Could cut very thin tapered strips of spruce and lay them firmly in the cracks, slightly proud to be leveled later. This might be a repair where cyano acrylate makes sense, so you could carefully position the pieces first and then apply glue. I guess the issue there is clean up though.
  6. bkwood

    Viola Bass Bar

    I'm making my 1st viola, small - about 15 5/8". I am shaping the bass bar now, and made the profile similar to my violins except longer. I am wondering how much taller than a violin bass bar it should be. I am thinking maybe not too much. Welcome any advice.
  7. Old growth Redwood top. It didn't sound too bad.
  8. I am starting a couple small violas, and the material I have for the ribs isn't long enough for a one piece lower bout. I have never done a 2 piece bout on a violin before. Is it a bad idea for any reason? Is some kind of small contrasting inlay between the pieces good, or clean butt joint the best?
  9. Just so I'm clear, do your neck joints hold together mechanically? Or are we dealing with semantics?
  10. I was a cabinet maker before making violins. Dovetail joint as commonly understood is a mechanical joint. It locks together. The violin neck joint relies on glue to work. Maybe Jerry does dovetail joints on his necks, but it isn't common. And if his argument is that he gets to define dovetail joint to mean what he wants, well whatever.
  11. For what it's worth I have never atered the varnish for the f holes. It seems a natural shadow line is enough. I have only built a few violins however, and I confess it never occurred to me before.
  12. So long Addie. I enjoyed his posts too.
  13. Hide glue is a must for any joint that would ever need to come apart for any reason. For anything else, including center joint seams, I can't see that it matters.