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About bkwood

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  1. That bears repeating. Many lowly amatures don't know that, and only want a fiddle that plays well, doesn't need repairs, and sounds good to them.
  2. Okay, thanks. I actually don't do that. I play on steel strings, and when I put on a new set I often pull them a little sharp as seems necessary to help them settle in. I've never had a bad outcome. I also play them hard to help them settle in.
  3. Carefully? What's that?
  4. Clean the crack as well as you can, or adding glue probably won't do anything.
  5. How narrow is the sound post?
  6. bkwood

    Japan Drier

    I agree. But I am not interested in making my own varnish. I found Hidersine varnish worked very well for me in the past. I only need a few ounces at a time. Hidersine is unavailable anymore. Other varnishes I can find on the internet are largely from Europe, not the US so shipping cost is greater, and it's hard to know how they will work for my purposes. But regardless, I welcome recommendations for good quality small batch oil varnish that dries on its own.
  7. Sage advice. I glued a square from a leather glove on a board and use it regularly as I'm working. I've got a stick of stuff I rub on the leather but don't remember exactly what it is. I also made an inside strop for the other side of a curved chisel by gluing leather around a dowel. I'm not sure how well that works but no harm.
  8. Is that why you’re a ‘dinky member’?
  9. bkwood

    Violin Bridge

    I always buy blanks and fit and finish them. When referring to "cutting a bridge" how many of you do that? Is that what the OP wants? Should be easier and cheaper to find someone to fit a new bridge than to cut a new one.
  10. Llike you, I decided to make a viola after making several violins. Reasons I chose Strobel's plans are that I was familiar with his violin book already, and I specifically wanted to make a smallish viola which his plans are for. I hadn't really known that there isn't really a standard for viola dimensions until I looked into it. His viola book is much slimmer than his violion book, and refers you to the violin book for many things. Avoiding the problems Manfio mentions is a good recommendation, but of course getting there might take more than one try. My viola came out nice and seems to play well. But the person I had in mind to show it to lives on the other side of the country and didn't make her annual trip to the west coast this year due to Covid. Good luck. Think about the size. Strobel's plans could be modified if you want to make a larger viola than his plan. Larger might improve your odds of an open sounding C string.
  11. The value of these contour lines is mosly in determining symetry when you’re fine tuning your shape. They’re kind of meaningless otherwise without more information in my opinion. That’s what I use them for.
  12. I agree with that. The surfaces mate perfectly. Looking at the maple carefully it seems perfectly clean. One thing I did not do is apply glue to both surfaces, only the ebony, and maybe the room was cool enough that the maple was too cool. I usually use a heat gun to warm both surfaces, and my shop is usually warm. And I don't tend to contaminate glue surfaces with other materials. Like I say, it's mysterious. But I'm going to clean both surfaces and reglue them with all that in mind.
  13. I took off the strings to see, and it's not what I had convinced myself it would be. I was pretty sure I either wouldn't see any glue or else I'd see the problem would be the ebony hadn't bonded. Actually, there is a clear glaze of glue on all the ebony surface but no evidence of glue on the maple. I've made a dozen fiddles out of the same tree, so I don't know what's going on. I suspect that in some unknown way I contaminated the maple surface with wax or silicone myself before the original glue up, and that I didn't clean up what I didn't see the second time. I don't understand how, but What else could it be? Paint thinner, naptha? Suggestions for cleaning the surface?
  14. Over a year ago I loaned a few of my fiddles, one at a time, to someone interested in buying one. He brought one back saying the fingerboard had fallen off. That seemed weird but I told him I’d repair it and get it back to him. He was actually more interested in another so the fiddle sat around for a long time before I got to it. When I did I took the opportunity to refinish it before returning the fingerboard. A couple weeks ago it was finally done and I loaned it to a friend of mine. He brought it back tonight to play some tunes with me, and as he opened the case and took it out the fingerboard slid free again. The first time it was an anomaly. I reglued it well, after cleaning both faces. There seemed to be no glue showing on either piece the first time. I’ll see what the latest looks like tomorrow. But could their be a contamination issue from the fingerboard blank I used? Has this happened to anyone? For an area with that much contact to fail twice without even stress on the joint doesn’t make sense.