bkwood

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About bkwood

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  1. bkwood

    Bridge Carving Question

    Or you can cut the bridge down around the E string groove until there's just a nick, unless you want to raise the E string anyway for some reason.
  2. bkwood

    Bridge Carving Question

    Although it probably isn't causing your problem I would free the E string from being pinched. That could make a difference. While you have the bridge out you can lightend it up if you want to before you put it back.
  3. bkwood

    Bridge shape to suit music style?

    I play old time as well. The myth that it's easier to play double stops on a flatter bridge is alive among old time players, but, as you say, it has nothing to do with it. It does have something to do with double stops played between adjacent pairs of strings though, the same as single string playing. Why someone wants to try to play triple stops I don't know. Also requires slack bow hair. My bridges are just slightly flatter than a classical set up, but much flatter than that and I have trouble playing clean single notes.
  4. bkwood

    Alternatives to e string parchment

    I have several fiddles with Prim Orchestra strings, and none of them have ever had any problem with an E string digging into the bridge. If one did then I'd try one of these techniques to stop it. But I'd never bother to do it pre-emptively. And I hate those little plastic sleeves, which are too soft to do the job in the first place. I've had them rattle when I left them on the after length so now I remove them.
  5. bkwood

    How to glue purfling

    I put the purfling in and leave it there. Flood the area around the purfling with cyano acrilate and it's glued. I was warned against trying this on this site, but tried it anyway, and it works perfectly well. The glue works down between the purfling and the sides of the channel without soaking into the wood, which might cause later finishing problems. I used to break purfling trying to pry it out of the channel to glue it and push it back in, but not anymore. Another time saving method I've found to work well is to forget pre-bending purfling on a bending iron. It is hard on it and it breaks and seperates etc. Instead, start by cutting your first miter and lay that end of the purfling into the groove. Then aim your heat gun on the purfling and lay it into the groove as it bends to fit. When you get to your next miter stop and carefully cut it. Etc. There are many followers of tradition on this site, and I respect that and learn lots reading what you all have to say. But sometimes you can save yourself lots of time trouble and still have a great result.
  6. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    That makes sense. Thanks.
  7. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Yes, it appears to be all the way around, although it is so well done it almost can't be detected. The most obvious place shows in the picture I included earlier.
  8. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Yes, I didn't notice that until I photographed it. What would the purpose of that be? The top seems very thin, at least at the edges and the f holes. Why laminate the edges? Appreciate the information from Blank face too. These are things I would not know how to discern myself.
  9. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Thanks for your interest. Here are a few more pictures.
  10. bkwood

    First build plans

    I agree with using both the Stroebel book, which has a full set of plans, and Johnson and Courtnall's book. Those are the books I started with and still use.
  11. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Here are some pictures of the violin. It's hard to photograph the label with an ipad, but one of the photos shows the date with the last numeral hand written. It is probably written in ink I'm thinking now. I am not attached to what the monetary value of this violin might be. I'm just getting information for the owner. The construction seems very light. The body is considerably narrow in both bouts than I am used to, but length and scale length are about standard.
  12. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Quite possibly. I'm not sure it's pencil though. I just got it and haven't had time to inspect it closely. I will take some pictures in the next day or so.
  13. bkwood

    Matteo Goffriller

    Can anyone tell me any defining characteristics (or evidence of fraud) for a violin I am setting up for a friend? It is certainly old by my standards, 150 years or more judging from the family history. I have no experience judging old masters, or much of anything else for that matter. The family who entrusted me with it has been told the label could be fake, and they aren't particularly concerned about that. They consider it a family heirloom and would be happy just to have me set it up and play fiddle tunes on it for them as it has been stored for a great many years. The label says Matteo Goffriller fecit, and below that Venitius anno 1729. the "nine" is written in pencil, and it's possible the "two" is as well. It isn't spectacular looking, but tidy.
  14. bkwood

    Speeding up suntanning

    Potassium Chromate in water.
  15. bkwood

    Violin top too thin in one spot

    I would use a very thin patch of spruce and thin glue over the spot in the top, with light pressure, to conform to any irregularities. Then use a chisle and scraper to finish where it wants to be. You probably won't even notice it when you're done, and you won't worry about it any more.