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Advocatus Diaboli

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  1. If your aim is to accurately capture instruments, this is the only polarizing filter I’d recommend. https://breakthrough.photography/products/x4-circular-polarizer Lighting is one of, if not the, most important aspects. Sounds like you already have decent glass (second most important, IMO), so that’s what I’d focus on. I’ve shot nice instruments with broad spectrum LEDs and tungsten hot lights, but I only use strobes if I have the option. Sometimes it’s not practical to travel with them and can’t rent them locally, but 99% of the time they’re what I use.
  2. Varnish texture becoming a little more apparent after a year.
  3. Untrue, like Michael said. All things considered, it has quite a bit about it that’s original.
  4. Assuming you’re talking about authenticity, there’s no reason to question that. John Becker restored it early in his career before Bein and Fushi sold it to Bill.
  5. I think I sent it to you in 2016, so it’s probably long past its best. I judge by smell and test strips. I’m going to keep that to myself for the time being
  6. I let it sit in a bucket until it smells almost sweet, or at the very least until it smells like freshly cut grass. Drain/strain the liquid, boil/skim, and maybe dilute if needed. I add some alcohol to it to prolong the shelf life. Making it is only half the battle, though. Applying it wrong will kill reflectivity and chatoyance. In a best case scenario it gives the wood a grey color with red flames and winter grain lines (spruce). The depth gets better with varnish on top.
  7. Having grown up with antique furniture made of both walnut and cherry, my vote is cherry. The color is in the brown side, but certain finishes and/or stains can turn cherry that color. The wood structure also looks just like cherry.
  8. Aloe ferox is going to be a slightly different color, but otherwise react similarly. Aloe Vera is a bit different, even though it contains aloin. How old the resin is makes more of a difference than the species, IME.
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