Nick Allen

It works for guitars. Why would violins be any different? You're already laminating two different woods together.

So like re tie it on the end, and wrap it in string and CA glue? Isn't that essentially what they do at the factory anyways? Also, I did make sure to file the string retainer hook smooth. Still broke...

Hello all, I bought a Larsen A for my viola I made, and as my luck would have it, the string broke off at the loop with a decisive *plink!. I paid close to $20 for a string and am wondering if anyone has any methods for fixing a string at the loop? Any advise would be appreciated! Thanks

I think in lieu of spruce, jelutong is being considered. As if one did not have easy access.

I thought the violin sounded like a small cello in concert. Very powerful and nasal sound, especially on the D and A. Could have been the playing technique, though.

That was just my, albeit pessimistic, initial assumption. But I could be completely mistaken. Personally, I know the struggles of starting up/going without. Good tools really are an investment. Invaluable, but will for sure benefit the person just starting out. OP, if you're still active, do you have an email at which you can be reached?

I found that if you shape both halves at the same time, any error is doubled and in symmetry.

So it can be resold for a profit?

The Hoffmann and Hammer offerings are very reasonably priced.

The location of the pins is more or less arbitrary. You can locate the pins along the center line for simplicity, or in the boutsif you want, off center. Just drill your holes in the lexan/template material. Then strike a center line on some plywood, and trace your template on it, flipping it to make a whole form. You can now either drill the holes in the wood through the existing template holes, or do it after you rough cut the form. Then, rough cut the form. Now, you have some locating holes that will hold your template down and in the same place every time. From here you can either hand finish the form, or take it to the router table.

Do violin neck heels even need stiffening? Obviously cellos, perhaps even large violas. For sure basses, too. But violins?

I think square/rectangular in cross section is what is typically used. A lot of guys rout the channel while the neck is till a block for ease. I'm not sure if a veneer is used. I don't see why one would be, though.

Your first fiddle looks good. The f hole especially. The two suggest things that I can see would be the corner shapes. Too long and chunky. You can make a cutout template of some corners that appeal to you or work off of a nice set of photographs to dial them in. Second is the neck button. It's far too wide. It should take on more of a circular shape, almost undercutting near the edge. Your varnish looks nice. What kind is it, and how did you go about getting a nice even color? Good work, and keep it up!

I'm planning on going to see it on Wednesday and Thursday. Is it really that much of a bust?

I personally like Psarianos Special. Not very invasive and smells nice.