Nick Allen

The dimensions of the root are pre determined. This needs to be addressed first and foremost. The heel and root should be prepared so that the only modification you are making to it is planing where it should contact the button as you go down. There are four areas where you will be removing wood as you move: The bottom of the heel, the back of the mortise, the right side of the mortise, and the left side of the mortise. You need to make sure that the sides of the mortise are very straight as you go, so that there are absolutely no gaps between them and the root. Same goes for the back of the mortise. You make use chalk when you get close. Most importantly is where the root contacts the button. This provides a great deal of the support, and is imperative that both surfaces mate perfectly. The overstand should come out to around 6.5, the projection should be 27. Some people go for 27.5 so that the violin will settle into 27 later, so up to you, and the neck stop should be 130 on the nose. Don't measure this from the but to the purfling. Measure it from the but to the edge of the top. You can make little sanding sticks to make the job less daunting. I'd suggest putting some 150 on a stiff tapered stick with spray adhesive. You can shape them any way you like to aid you. Also, when you're sure that everything is in place and ready to glue, rehearse your gluing action several times before you go about doing it, or you just may find that you have a neck with a fingerboard projection of 29mm in the morning.

I just broke one. Only because I accidentally put it on the A peg... I tied it and glued it in the pegbox and it holds fine. Whoops.

I kind of like it.

To me there is no need for such monstrosities in a violin shop as a 30" bandsaw lol.

Are you sure that all violins that have the stamp under the button are fake? Not saying that this one could be, but I have a book about Hopf violins and makers from that region and some of the genuine examples in the book had the stamp. At least I hope that I'm recalling correctly. I could be wrong.

Damn. I'm getting used to a new keyboard on my laptop. I hate Chiclet keyboards!

Yeah I'm aware of the Crater guide system. For all blades 3/16" and under I always recommended it. Believe it or not, the do use band saws in metal working to cut holes out. The machine cuts and re welds the blade on the spot once it's fished through the starter hole. Cool stuff.

Do you have the Denis book? You should draft a design with those principles. I think you only need a few base measurements like overall length to start with.

Delta isn't actually Delta anymore. It's just a namesake. The "Delta" rep comes to my store and he mentioned to me how the company was new and still feeling things out. The new company under the "Delta" brand is trying to build it back into a reputable tool company from what I've heard.

Has anyone mentioned this yet? https://www.cremonatools.com/pegas-scroll-band-saw-6448.html

No

No Romberg flat I see.

If you look at Stead's original* forms, they have inserts at the corner block locations. That's where the side grain split off with the block when removing the Garland from the form. So he added inserts to build that area up again.

However long it's still in good shape. Could be indefinite.

I think geared tuners are the inevitable future.