Nick Allen

I would not use a *fret saw for this operation. You're better off with a coping saw if you're gonna do it manually. Although a band saw is ideal for this.

Okee. Who am I sending it too?

I share the feeling. I had to clean a buncha mildew from a nice Gemunder cello not too long ago that a dampit caused.

I'm dragging my little feet in shipping the neck and fingerboard assembly.

The truth is usually somewhere in the middle.

This is a no-brainer with several elegant solutions. I vote tape on a stick or clothes hanger wire with a lil hook on the end.

I watched that video just now. I love seeing masters at work. A little jolt of inspiration. So. I did what David said and kept the grads thicker. They're about 3.0-3.1 right now. I left the soundpost area proportionately thicker, too. The whole babe weighs 65g right now, sans bass bar. It has a nice flex to it, healthy, and springier than the one that proceeded it. The signature modes seem to be high, though. But I don't know if I can trust those figures as I still don't have a firm grasp on the process. Is the plate too heavy yet? Too thick? Also, you're right, E. I have to source some better aged spruce. Be more selective as I'm transitioning from buying wood for the sake of anticipating wrecking it in the name of learning how to build a functional instrument into being able to reliably build something that can sound decent.

It really depends on if you have the necessary tools and skill. This job can easily be fudged, leading to much worse results. Personally, I would inspect the crack to see how old it is and if it may need cleaning. Also, see if the crack will go back together with some light finger pressure. If all of that looks good, then it can be glued back with fresh hot hide glue, clamped with a c clamp that can appropriately slip under the scroll. Then you have a choice of doing either an internal patch if the crack is bad enough(requires more time and skill) plus a bushing, or you could do without the inside cheek patch and go for an internal carbon ring reinforcement bushing. Those would be my avenues, but someone else should chime in if my methods are flawed or there is a better option.

You're gonna be in for a lot of sadness if that is getting you down lol.

The shipping always gets you in the end.

Ba-dum-tschhh!!! Nice looking Del Gesú you got going there.

If the neck root extension is properly sized and joined with HHG, then it should have held. As one can see, there was a large gap, big enough to "throw a cat through", as is said. That seems like it was the culprit. It looks to me as though the button broke free as a result of the root coming loose. It just took a ride. You can correct me if I'm wrong, also. At least the back will be quite easy to remove now, granted it wasn't also put in with white glue. Was white glue even around pre-20th century?

Never would have considered reel chalk for this. Might have to pop on down to the Deopt real quick.

Just like everything with violin making, you can convolute any step in the process.

Perhaps I should stick with the basics until I'm good enough to do less conventional stuff.