• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kwebb

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1154 profile views
  1. Davide, I remember seeing one of your videos that feature your lining clamps. It inspired my very first attempt at making my own. They work but the nice thing about my new design is that it doesn't require a spacer between the screw and rib/lining to prevent scaring the surface from the screw tip. In my tests, the clamps have been plenty rigid. I find that if linings are bent properly, it doesn't take a lot of force to clamp in place for gluing anyway. They provide significantly more force than clothespins with rubber bands. If it were an issue, there are plastics that can be printed which are infused with carbon fiber which would significantly increase the strength. However, that would also increase the price. I have also been playing with cello lining clamp models which include a thicker frame to resist flex.
  2. The ones I have modeled are based on the cremona tools version but thinner and with a smaller mouth for the reasons that you mentioned. I wanted them to be able to fit close together regardless of the curve you're clamping the lining to. Also, the cremona tools version is like $5.63 while I should be able to make mine from plastic for less than $2 per clamp.
  3. I have been designing a lining clamp to be 3d printed. I have prototyped several already and have a few local violin makers trying them out to get some feed back. They are very small in size and have a mouth opening of 7mm x 10mm. The Knob is 9mm in diameter. If there's enough interest, I might be able to have them printed in large quantities to sell. Made from plastic, they would be significantly cheaper than other options available.
  4. Thank you for your extensive critique. I really want to get better but I don't know many violin makers in person. Online is the only place I've been able to get feedback so I appreciate you taking the time to go into such detail. Regarding the corners. I didn't work from a template and instead used measurements and my eye. You mention that they look good individually but not together. What features cause them to not have the same feel? For the f-hole nicks, I placed them based on the drawing I have. Does this measurement change between different models? And yes, unfortunately made the inside treble one too large. I used fiber purfling and I don't recall the measurements off hand. I have received a couple suggestions that I should make my own purfling so maybe I'll try that on my next instrument. It's just so much more convenient to order strips and get to work. Thanks again for your comments.
  5. I have always wanted a set of Herdim assembly clamps but the price tag was too significant. At nearly $15 per clamp, that's roughly $480 for a full set. I reproduced these clamps using 3D printing and produced a set that is functionally identical. My clamps even have the slot and pin that prevent the clamp head from twisting off alignment with the lower clamp face. I produced an entire set for the cost of hardware (threaded rod, thumb nuts, spring pins,) and plastic ($0.10 per clamp.) Total cost for my custom 3D printed set was $60. Outside of this, they weigh less than half the original Herdim version. I think that's a pretty significant positive change. Lightweight clamps are always better in my opinion. I think there are a number of areas that I could expand this idea to such as custom printed repair clamps.
  6. Almost ready for varnish. This is violin #4
  7. Thanks! It's based on the Messiah. It's the only model I've ever made actually. I have another one that's ready for varnish too. I think I'll branch out for my next violin.
  8. Thank you! It's Joe Robson ground/varnish. I can't remember exactly but I think I used a mixture of greek pitch brown with a small amount of purple alizarin mixed in.
  9. Finished setup on my last violin over the weekend and took some time to document it with proper photos. I'm quite proud of this one. Edit: for some reason the thumbnail below appears a little dark but the full view shows the appropriate brightness. Not sure if it's my computer or that way for everyone.
  10. Thanks. I used a combination of dyes (aniline dye and india ink) that absorb into the curl before sanding and polishing it. It allows for a nice transition between the root varnish > neck > pegbox varnish. I don't like hard transitions where the varnish ends. The chisel rack has an angled bottom. It allows the chisel to fall to the bottom and seat properly but can't fall out due to the other horizontal spacers.
  11. Thank you. For that varnish I used Joe Robson's ground set as well as the aged wood gold and finished with the greek pitch brown and some oil paints. It's not my favorite due to the antiquing but I do love how prominent the maple figure is.
  12. #4 is coming to a close. This one is turning out to be my best work yet.
  13. Cool - glad to hear that you like yours. I have put quite a bit of wood through it now and I'm very impressed. I agree that dust collection is a must. I already had a cyclone separator and rigid duct piped through one side of the shop. It's doing a great job of collecting everything the drum sander generates.