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uncle duke

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Everything posted by uncle duke

  1. Two days until the break of spring here ........ hurry up.
  2. I use the point system starting at 100 and subtract 1 for each mistake and try to stay as close to 100 as possible. Is an average of 75 acceptable?
  3. Coming from one who still thinks the world is flat..........
  4. Seems the tree needs 2000 mm of rain per year to grow - that is close to double what S. Florida/Keys get per year.
  5. Thinking about it some - a few individuals could come up with some sort of morse code using the valves to pass messages during a performance.
  6. The only thing I can offer is that during performances I found myself looking farther ahead than I would during normal practice sessions. Don't know why other than making sure no mistakes would happen or at least be ready for them .
  7. So.................. off topic slightly. Here are measurements for a block of wood to make a homemade shaper. 5 1/2" L x 2" W x 1 3/8" H 1. Lay flat, from the right side measure left 1 3/8". 2. Measure up from the bottom 1 ". 3. Drill a hole all the way through to the backside starting where you use 1 and 2 to make a starting point. 4. After drilled hole is big enough to start a 130 reamer carefully ream through to other side, I think, this may be able to wait for a bit. At the least start some of it. 5. Make the bed for the 2" #4 or #5 plane iron to lie flat on. From the left side to where the hole is make that side 1 5/32" high and the backside of the block 1 1/8" high. These two last measurements here may be 1/64" off - be careful. 6. Blade bed must be flat, no bumps, which is why I used pine - less work scraping. 7. From above the hole cut down to expose the area where you can see the reamer. So I guess ream the proper size hole before cutting down to expose just half the circumference of the hole. 8. So..........got interrupted again. ask question, if needed. later. Note - you will need a known good peg to help with when to stop making the hole bigger. Other things - I am going to assume only amatuer makers will try this way so some other things I thought of are when you do finally align the blade with the known good peg don't turn it counterclockwise - it will cut thus messing up the good peg. Something else is to lightly score your unturned peg right up next to the collar. That will let you know when to stop. I noticed I added a 1 mm chamfer to the entrance of the hole - that enbles me to see where to stop turning up along the collar. Do have a real sharp plane blade and sort of perfectly square with itself. I just clamp the blade down on top but you can add a piece of wood between blade and clamp for better holding power. You could align the blade with the reamer but a good peg will work.
  8. I use forstner bits hand powered after plate is thinned completely. Start on the outside carefully and finish thru from underneath. Then knife work, fret saw, a stout piece of coping saw blade with tape around one end for finger grip holding power if I don't feel like knifing the entire run, rattail file for the holes along with sandpaper to smooth out the file work. Probably forgot something but oh well.
  9. I made one out of soft pine thinking it wouldn't work well and ended up doing 14/15 violins worth of pegs. It's pretty much wore out now so I'll make another. Can a homemade endpin making block work to make endpins?
  10. Well, that is less than a hour. Seems like a good wintertime project.
  11. If I had to choose between locust and osage orange for working/splitting I would choose locust - slightly easier. I do notice locust has those open pored grain lines similar to oak.
  12. Motley Crue may of never been the same without him.
  13. Can that single piece be made in less than a hours time?
  14. I just remembered something - I believe I use a small frame fret saw with 43 teeth per inch to do those flat areas so I guess you can say I cheat but it does give a good straight cut, sorry for the previous.
  15. Looking at the last free plate done a few years ago it appears to me that I left the cut proud and finished the flatness with a small flat sanding something, probably a file with sandpaper. Being an amatuer I find just cutting out the holes undersize and finish out the rounding with a rat tail file wrapped with sandpaper gives the shaping I need.
  16. Excused - Australian - Wattyl or instant estapol is an oil modified urethane varnish. Compatible with shellac as a sealer as long as coats are kept thin. Cannot be exposed to the extremes of sunlight and heat. Is capable of doing the job for finishing guitars. The above may not be what Andreas was refering to but the name was similar. Guitars, hmm.
  17. First, you have to do the crack repairs and try to make them look like they were not there in the first place. Then, those peg holes may need bushings installed and drilled/reamed for new pegs. Then, you see those dark patches and circular sanding marks? With those still on the wood you can't say an unvarnished new violin appearance. But if you can get the wood repairs done you can still put something on there for a finish and have a violin but it won't be worth any money afterwards and may very well sound sort of ho hum for a violin tone.
  18. I learned everything violin playing wise using one of them, under lengthed at that. I thought of maybe drilling a horizontal hole in the tip to install weight like a nail or nail shaped piece of lead so that the tip end of the bow would stay on the strings better. I have never used a full length fiberglass bow though, are they better than the shorter ones?
  19. One of you is right and the other one of you is wrong. I could tell in the first few seconds that right forearm weight controls what is happening.
  20. After getting a plate thinned down before ff hole cutting and bass bar gluing do you make note of the tone of the plate firstly, cut the holes, glue bass bar and return to the tone of the blank plate?
  21. That was yesterday. Today, 10 " of snow. They say we haven't had that much here in 129 years or so.
  22. While reading through yesterday, laughing some, wondering some, dusting off clothes between reading/working breaks etc., allowed me to hog out four insides of plates while you guys were at it -so imo. not a bad day.
  23. I may be wrong but I think I read long ago where some were allowed to go back and cut leftover stumps for wood from the earlier years.
  24. While thinning interior of belly plate #3 it bottoms out m5 wise lower than the first two - same billet, same thicknesses. So............. 2 hrs. later plate 4 rings lower than 3. Must be the tree.
  25. So before firing up ol' betsy [drillpress] I was wondering how you guys who use a punchpress mark the soundpost belly area. Just one mark, mark the perimeter or two marks?
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