Nik Kyklo

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About Nik Kyklo

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  • Birthday February 10

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bow making, bow restoration, violin restoration

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  1. Thank you a lot Mr Darnton. It was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you @Mampara too.
  2. I would like to flute the baroque bow stick I make. Do you know how can I do it? (without power tools) An example of fluting I would like to imitate is the following: https://tarisio.com/archet-revolutionnaire/nicolas-pierre-tourte/ Nicolas Pierre amonf many others used this technique of rod flitting. How did they do it? Thank you a lot
  3. Before a long time, I left a new violin on sunlight (not directly). It was close to finish and then I saw a same crack on the lower part of the top. I could not find the reason, except - improperly treated wood from supplier, because then I was not treating my plates in any way. Cracks.. The worst point is the black line they left and whatever done in retouching it cannot hide the problem. So, not retouching but - clean the crack and use titebond original and color if needed inside the glue. In my case I opened the plate and did the right job from inside.
  4. Thank you all for your interest. I am not referring to color changing. That is well known, from fuming to acids. I am trying to find a chemical (as safe as it can be) that will harden the wood. Chambers and vacuums need more space that I do not have at the moment. Another options I am thinking is: Wood ponding in destilized water (or boiling 48 hours). The changes are very small. I would like something more. As for the linseed oil, depending on the washing or boiling method I see completely different results. For watery and fully penetrating to thick and not easily absorbable. What would be the ideal? Probably a fully penetrating but easy drying. So, washed linseed oil + turpentine or sicative and then UV?
  5. Of course you are not wrong. Good wood is the first step. I agree. As for treatments I give an example: Bolander notices at his book "1000 Bows and a tribute" a fragment from A. Riehers, that Tourte was rubbing sticks with linseed oil and let them to the air in order to harden and strengthen them. This is a type of treatment.
  6. Hello. Since I am working at home, I am trying to find a safe way to treat wood for bow (pernambuko, acacia, Brazil wood and other species I use). Formalization, phenol (cancerous), orthomethylophenol (toxic), formaldehyde (cancerous) are some of the treatments I have on list that are not good for home use. Acetylation seems safer but how could I do it at home? Chemical methods seem bit dangerous for home use. Also, torrification or Yamaha method maybe are fine but the " 0 O2 chamber" is missing. What else DIY, simple and safe could I use bow wood treatment and hardening? *I read I think at journal of American luthiers that linseed oil enchaches only elastisity but I don t know if it s true.
  7. https://www.versteeg-geigenbau.de/index.php/en/dendrochronology/instructions I think you can find a lot of information here.
  8. Thank you for your interest. I tried lime on small pieces with some old marciana varnish I had. Of course it turns to transparent. What I can see is that it becomes much harder than gypsum. Maybe I had to pure more water at lime. That hardness propably is good. Is there anybody that ever measured elasticity and sound speed alterations before and after lime treatment?
  9. Thank you very much for your responses. I really don't know about limestone. I am using already plaster of paris. What I see (on some pieces of wood) is that lime makes the grains look better. Something that plaster does not. Also, it hardens a lot after time. Gypsum does not have such properties as far as I know. I agree that Hargrave has a very good explanation for plaster of paris. If there is color at varnish (first layers) then it goes into pores and it is a problem. It does seal the wood like seedlac.
  10. Hello. Does anyone used or uses lime as ground and treatment? There are many topics on Casein but I could not locate something on simple lime. As material (lime) absorbs humidity (which is good), protects and hardens at the same time. I don't know how caustic it is when used on wood and if it damages it rather than protect it. I think, since lime was widely used at Mediterranean environment, surely it was a known and useful material to luthiers. Thank you
  11. Thank you very much for your reply. I already tried these and made 2 -3 tailpieces in the past. I am just trying to find something closer to the original flat bottom tailpieces of Stradivari / Amati family etc. Something that has more detail's than Sacconi's patterns.
  12. Hello. I am interested to make baroque tailpiece for violin and viola. Does anyone know where can I find exact plans of baroque tailpieces (and if there are original to the instrument they belong)? I read some previous discussions here but there is not something specific. Ashmolean Museum's (and NMM) plans include tailpieces, but I am not sure what to choose. Sacconi has the Strad patterns but not exact dimensions. I don't know any other resources for tailpieces. Thank you
  13. Thank you all so much for your interest and your valuable information. It is a proof that this forum is a small treasure. Diogenes the Cynic philosopher (fragm. from Diogenes Laertius I think) said once: "The sun does not get dirty even if he gets into the toilets". (I remember the ancient text and maybe my translation is bad). In a messed up place like web, sun remains sun, here. I will try as mentioned the NaNO2.
  14. Thank you all for your replies. What I received is NaNO2. The NaNO3 was much more expensive (about 60E per kilo). I read too that is used in meats somehow (better I didn't know it). I had used on a viola vinegar with some iron wool in the past. The result was ok in first view but a bit green. After time it looks like it "eats" the varnish. I had use spirit varnish if I remember well. The result was very weird. If the NaNO2 has same effects of course I will not use it.
  15. I just bought for the first time some NaNO2 (Sodium Nitrate) to test it, how it works on spruce and maple. I had a bad relationship with chemistry since I was in school so I would like to know how safe is its use and how to use it. It is 1kg in a bag ( I bought it really cheap 6-7Euros). I read here https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/sodium_nitrite that this is toxic, harmful etc. Should I have to use gloves, mask or anything else, can I store it inside the home? What else should I take care of? Thank you