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Mik Kyklo

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Everything posted by Mik Kyklo

  1. Some holes where used in order to place the frog in a solid base and work the underline (the 45 degrees at ebony) .. Otherwise you have to vise it from both sides. (about weight... No. It is pointless to make this hole to control something)
  2. Thank you very much for that.
  3. Please, can you tell me how you do it? I made various driers but never lead acetate. Now it is time. I have lead from old tubes. I cut small pieces plus -> vinegar (or acetic acid) + Hydr. peroxide? And when the oxide is ready, do I have to dry it and use it as powder inside varnish? I use pale siccative for years with no problems at all - except it is a bit slow / does lead acetate has any difference or it would be a time loosing process? Thanks
  4. http://www.rublevcolours.com/about-us/store-locator/ Rubluev color list is big enough and you can search for sellers from store locator. https://www.hammerl.com/ Hammerl? https://www.madinter.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=Color Madinter https://maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/search?controller=search&s=Color Maderas barber https://www.clou-shop.eu/holzbeizen/pulverbeizen/clou-spiritusbeize.html For aniline and water based dyes For Oils (personal choice) - Old holland
  5. I agree. You are right. But, if you make some frogs, screws etc.--- you can realize some things immediately... And I had very strict instructor... So, you mean it has good playing properties (Stiffness, Balance, weight etc). Ok , if you like how it plays, it is another thing / personal. Did I comment on that? No. If it plays great, that it is. I never asked details about the bow maker. I asked you just about a phrase (nice stick). Of course it would be unproductive to discuss about a bowmaker, because if you trust what someone told you, you do not ask at forum for extra opinions.
  6. Mass made bow (German?) .. Look tip and frog. Someone remade tip - revarnished (seem that does not know the job since looks unsealed/or bad varnished). Also messed up with tip corners at the back side. Frog is out of commenting - button too (out of center). Grip.. Off comment too. Put at least that leather straight... What does your bow maker mean - it is a good stick?
  7. First you have to know what horn you have and from which animal. Ox, deer, imitation etc. You can polish it nice if you have a rotary tool (dremel like) and attach polishing bit. With light sanding (1500-2000) and some rouge (very fine) you can make it shinny. Avoid oils. If it is imitation decolored shellac will help the result.
  8. I have no idea. If you google Kawasei you will find everything that is available on internet. Here you can buy just one (No 13 ) from ebay. I found it in 1 minute -- just google a bit...
  9. https://www.fine-tools.com/japcarv1.html Here you have the same in the set. Hm, you will have to find it in Japan, if you buy just one. Woodcarving - in violin making process has no use. (or maybe you can cut purfling ends.. Maybe) If you buy it from Japan or Europe.. You will pay a lot + import charges. Think about purchasing a grinder, find an steel rod and make it. (or a friend with grinder or milling machine)
  10. The varnish I made resulted very dark..... but I boiled the oil in aloes prior to make the varnish, so part of the colour comes from the aloes too. Colophony, except aloe, sugar etc (practices that are mentioned from Guidotti, Bonanni and many other writers of that period), obtain color from various metals that are cooked together. Also, the colophony at the OP is very expensive. Here in Mediterranean I buy 1 kilo for 6 euros. It is used a lot in white wine as preservative - and those who produce that types of wine buy tons. Quality colophony is cheap (and produce cheap results if not used properly).
  11. Thank you all for your comments! I will try some new things.
  12. @Dave Slight fantastic tool! Thank you for the link! Very intresting. A bit more complicated than it should, but very clever at the same time.
  13. Thank you for your answers! I already do that (square,octagon,circle). The same I do for bow making, so I already have a jig for square stick. I was just wondering if there is another way.
  14. Hello! Once a year, when I have a little time free, I make some rods for soundposts, mainly for cello and violin, to have them ready for future use. I use a saw and a block plane. I tried the method that is described https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUmlMtpAj9o , but there are splits in many spots , too much sandpapering after and - a room of dust. Maybe this method works good for other woods but it is problematic at spruce (at least my experiance). Is there a fast technique that works for you? Has anyone tried the old dowel metal plate method, or it is a lot of hammering with bad results in the end? I am just trying to find a faster (funnier and fancier) method! Thank you all!! (I found an older post with some nice ideas - even I do not want to buy router to make soundposts.)
  15. Hello. >We speak for a cheap bow, with copper wrap. (Copper wrap with silver imitation has a very low cost, but it needs some hour for wrapping, and remake the grip too. So, we forget this step) First, you stabilize the wire with spots of CA glue (and at the same time it has to look nice, as it can be). Then you give a clear shellac coat, with a brush, in order to unify and protect the wire. At the end, you give a wrap with clear tape, as you said.
  16. Hello. thanks for your comment. I do not want a homemade "napalm" too. That is why I ask if others have experience of such a process.
  17. Thank you for your answers! I do not understand why so many are repeating "cook in an open container". I do it already. The question is not about that, so I consider them as "off topic".
  18. I have some of them with handles, too. But I rarely use them. This is what I am doing. It does not mean that I do not like to try new methods. Bottom line is --> if I want to give a try, I have to find a magnetic/ heat plate, for lab use in order to have stirring and stable/even heating in the same time. Thank you so much all, for your interest and your time.
  19. Thank you. Exactly. I was thinking of that. Silicone corks give a range to 240 C. Is the solution to buy a flask with a NS 29/32 joint? 01 - Thank you 1 - Does oil produces so much gasses and high pressure, with abscence of oxygene, in order to explode? I never practically heated oil that way. 2 - "large metal plate between the heating coil and the jar" --> I have it already 3 - Yes.... My wife does not let me to "cook" around our house.... if she smells a drop of cooked linseed oil, I will stay locked outside... {One reason more to find a way to cook without smell and fumes!} Thank you. I have wide mouth erlenmeyer flask but I do not use it a lot. An old small cooking pot is fine for normal cooking.
  20. Hello, I would like to know if there is any problem, cooking Linseed oil/Colophony type varnishes in corcked erlenmeyer flask. I cook till ~280 C and I am using a simple electric cooking plate (so tempereature let's say that has not so much stability -- it is not like pro magnetic/heat plates that are used in labs). (By the way how can I check temperature in a closed flask? I have an infrared thermometer.) Is it safe or am I making a kind of "bomb" by heating oil/resin in the absence of oxygen?
  21. The problem begins from the question. Texts about varnish that can come to my mind even BC are many. But books were not the source ideal of information. We begin from Pliny and Dioscurides and even BC. For the 'general public' history begins with the: Hermenia / the byzantine manual and Theofilus / Monc before schesma. Renaissance (and all western civilization) is based on Aristotelic thought (after the acceptance of 'logic' as we know it today). Second were the neoplatonic ideas. Aristotelean work about materials and chemistry was known. These texts were passed to Byzantines and Muslims. Amatis for example were living the Aristotelean ideals around them - they did not have to read a book on chemistry, proportions and varnish. Today we search on books and web for recipes. The old times, oral tradition was so powerful, as Instagram today. If you read ancient Greek and Latin you will find a lot o things.
  22. Excuse me for interupting with a close related theme. Strobel at his Cello making book has a varnish recipe with resin and walnut oil. He just have a reference in his other books. Can anyone share the recipe/process since I have only his violin making book? I would be interested to hear your ground/vanishing plans. Thank you!
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