Mik Kyklo

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About Mik Kyklo

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  • Birthday February 10

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    Male
  • Interests
    Bow making, bow restoration, violin restoration

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  1. Hello. >We speak for a cheap bow, with copper wrap. (Copper wrap with silver imitation has a very low cost, but it needs some hour for wrapping, and remake the grip too. So, we forget this step) First, you stabilize the wire with spots of CA glue (and at the same time it has to look nice, as it can be). Then you give a clear shellac coat, with a brush, in order to unify and protect the wire. At the end, you give a wrap with clear tape, as you said.
  2. Hello. thanks for your comment. I do not want a homemade "napalm" too. That is why I ask if others have experience of such a process.
  3. Thank you for your answers! I do not understand why so many are repeating "cook in an open container". I do it already. The question is not about that, so I consider them as "off topic".
  4. I have some of them with handles, too. But I rarely use them. This is what I am doing. It does not mean that I do not like to try new methods. Bottom line is --> if I want to give a try, I have to find a magnetic/ heat plate, for lab use in order to have stirring and stable/even heating in the same time. Thank you so much all, for your interest and your time.
  5. Thank you. Exactly. I was thinking of that. Silicone corks give a range to 240 C. Is the solution to buy a flask with a NS 29/32 joint? 01 - Thank you 1 - Does oil produces so much gasses and high pressure, with abscence of oxygene, in order to explode? I never practically heated oil that way. 2 - "large metal plate between the heating coil and the jar" --> I have it already 3 - Yes.... My wife does not let me to "cook" around our house.... if she smells a drop of cooked linseed oil, I will stay locked outside... {One reason more to find a way to cook without smell
  6. Hello, I would like to know if there is any problem, cooking Linseed oil/Colophony type varnishes in corcked erlenmeyer flask. I cook till ~280 C and I am using a simple electric cooking plate (so tempereature let's say that has not so much stability -- it is not like pro magnetic/heat plates that are used in labs). (By the way how can I check temperature in a closed flask? I have an infrared thermometer.) Is it safe or am I making a kind of "bomb" by heating oil/resin in the absence of oxygen?
  7. The problem begins from the question. Texts about varnish that can come to my mind even BC are many. But books were not the source ideal of information. We begin from Pliny and Dioscurides and even BC. For the 'general public' history begins with the: Hermenia / the byzantine manual and Theofilus / Monc before schesma. Renaissance (and all western civilization) is based on Aristotelic thought (after the acceptance of 'logic' as we know it today). Second were the neoplatonic ideas. Aristotelean work about materials and chemistry was known. These texts were passed to Byzantines
  8. Excuse me for interupting with a close related theme. Strobel at his Cello making book has a varnish recipe with resin and walnut oil. He just have a reference in his other books. Can anyone share the recipe/process since I have only his violin making book? I would be interested to hear your ground/vanishing plans. Thank you!
  9. Ducane family was know for transitional bows. Never heard this name on violins.
  10. There are many makers all over the world that using Acacia. I had better results with IPE and also Acacia has various problems at colouration.
  11. Yes you can. To unstuck the screw. The w40 goes everywhere, and even inside cracks. But, after w 40.. Some alcohol or aceton and no problem. Also, w40 dries - is not non drying oil. Do not confuse bow stick restoration with violin plates. (by the way, you never used oil for bow screw??) You can use cyanoacrylate, epoxy, hide or whatever u want for cracks.
  12. All these thing you describe are very easy for repairs, from the point of a bowmaker/restorer. This bow needs nothing new. Just a bit of care during repair. +the stick will also need corrections Just think that this piece has no value as construction. You can fix it only if it has some qualities at playing (that I am sure that has few.. Or very few) or if you have some personal history with the item. (I am telling that to you friendly, in order not to loose your time or money).
  13. Thank you for the details. For how long do you cook the oil? Since you use only heat, would it be good to use any drier (lithopone, zinc oxide etc that will not affect the color)?