Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Mik Kyklo

Members
  • Posts

    214
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mik Kyklo

  • Birthday February 10

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bow making, bow restoration, violin restoration

Recent Profile Visitors

1773 profile views

Mik Kyklo's Achievements

Senior Member

Senior Member (4/5)

  1. other than a router?? There is no easy way to cut maple by hand without effort. That 's the reason we invented machines. Every maker knows what you are talking about... If you want healthy hands for long and you want to make a lot of instruments I cannot think many ways. You buy a rotary tool (and you can find it VERY cheap), you use a proper bit, a base that you can buy find again VERY cheap or make your own https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/328668-my-new-home-made-dremel-purfling-router-tool/ and that's all. Some corners or edges you have to finish them by hand. You finish purfling chanel in less than 5 minutes (except corners). Once you try that - you never go back! If you look it from the capitalistic or marxistic point of view etc.> Time is money and effort is money too If you do it by hand - there is one way to make is easier // go VERY SLOW, be patient and stop imediately when you feel tension. Urstudien > Flesch > he wrote about how many violinists destroyed from constant tension and he proposed immediate breaks about 30-40 seconds, if I remember well, to restore the blood circulation.
  2. Some holes where used in order to place the frog in a solid base and work the underline (the 45 degrees at ebony) .. Otherwise you have to vise it from both sides. (about weight... No. It is pointless to make this hole to control something)
  3. Thank you very much for that.
  4. Please, can you tell me how you do it? I made various driers but never lead acetate. Now it is time. I have lead from old tubes. I cut small pieces plus -> vinegar (or acetic acid) + Hydr. peroxide? And when the oxide is ready, do I have to dry it and use it as powder inside varnish? I use pale siccative for years with no problems at all - except it is a bit slow / does lead acetate has any difference or it would be a time loosing process? Thanks
  5. http://www.rublevcolours.com/about-us/store-locator/ Rubluev color list is big enough and you can search for sellers from store locator. https://www.hammerl.com/ Hammerl? https://www.madinter.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=Color Madinter https://maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/search?controller=search&s=Color Maderas barber https://www.clou-shop.eu/holzbeizen/pulverbeizen/clou-spiritusbeize.html For aniline and water based dyes For Oils (personal choice) - Old holland
  6. I agree. You are right. But, if you make some frogs, screws etc.--- you can realize some things immediately... And I had very strict instructor... So, you mean it has good playing properties (Stiffness, Balance, weight etc). Ok , if you like how it plays, it is another thing / personal. Did I comment on that? No. If it plays great, that it is. I never asked details about the bow maker. I asked you just about a phrase (nice stick). Of course it would be unproductive to discuss about a bowmaker, because if you trust what someone told you, you do not ask at forum for extra opinions.
  7. Mass made bow (German?) .. Look tip and frog. Someone remade tip - revarnished (seem that does not know the job since looks unsealed/or bad varnished). Also messed up with tip corners at the back side. Frog is out of commenting - button too (out of center). Grip.. Off comment too. Put at least that leather straight... What does your bow maker mean - it is a good stick?
  8. First you have to know what horn you have and from which animal. Ox, deer, imitation etc. You can polish it nice if you have a rotary tool (dremel like) and attach polishing bit. With light sanding (1500-2000) and some rouge (very fine) you can make it shinny. Avoid oils. If it is imitation decolored shellac will help the result.
  9. I have no idea. If you google Kawasei you will find everything that is available on internet. Here you can buy just one (No 13 ) from ebay. I found it in 1 minute -- just google a bit...
  10. https://www.fine-tools.com/japcarv1.html Here you have the same in the set. Hm, you will have to find it in Japan, if you buy just one. Woodcarving - in violin making process has no use. (or maybe you can cut purfling ends.. Maybe) If you buy it from Japan or Europe.. You will pay a lot + import charges. Think about purchasing a grinder, find an steel rod and make it. (or a friend with grinder or milling machine)
  11. The varnish I made resulted very dark..... but I boiled the oil in aloes prior to make the varnish, so part of the colour comes from the aloes too. Colophony, except aloe, sugar etc (practices that are mentioned from Guidotti, Bonanni and many other writers of that period), obtain color from various metals that are cooked together. Also, the colophony at the OP is very expensive. Here in Mediterranean I buy 1 kilo for 6 euros. It is used a lot in white wine as preservative - and those who produce that types of wine buy tons. Quality colophony is cheap (and produce cheap results if not used properly).
  12. Thank you all for your comments! I will try some new things.
  13. @Dave Slight fantastic tool! Thank you for the link! Very intresting. A bit more complicated than it should, but very clever at the same time.
  14. Thank you for your answers! I already do that (square,octagon,circle). The same I do for bow making, so I already have a jig for square stick. I was just wondering if there is another way.
×
×
  • Create New...