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Mik Kyklo

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About Mik Kyklo

  • Birthday February 10

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  • Interests
    Bow making, bow restoration, violin restoration

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  1. I agree. And also this gentlemen does not need a "lawyer" like you. Of course he has my respect, as you have and as everybody else /(your comment is off topic). OP is about rosinates and I just gave him a (maestronet s) way to save money and have the same or even better results. https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/337747-iron-rosinate/ https://violinmakersbc.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/violin-makers-journal-vol6-no4-june-july-1963.pdf (p 26) https://archive.org/details/distillationofre00schwrich/page/94/mode/2up?q=resinate etc.
  2. Of course. And other are much smarter... They buy semi finished instruments and sell them as handmade. Other are just dealers. Maybe they are sensitive/allergic to wood dust. Burning house down with rosinates? What are you talking about? p.s. for sensitives there are "masks" and "protection"
  3. Is this a kind of product marketing? You bough all of "his" products? It is very "known" and easy to make rosinates (especially after Michelmans' publications). Why even do you have to buy something you can do with materials that cost almost nothing/ and you can Google and have the recipes? (some colophony, metal oxides, alkalis etc.) Search here and Mr Noon has a nice about Iron rosinate if I remember well... (You can save many bucks from your future purchases.)
  4. Hello! I would like to make something (DIY - simple as it can be) that will serves me as cross clamp and as edge clamp. I have made, years ago, some simple crack clamps and work fine. I was wondering if I could do the same for the cross and edge. Thanks!
  5. other than a router?? There is no easy way to cut maple by hand without effort. That 's the reason we invented machines. Every maker knows what you are talking about... If you want healthy hands for long and you want to make a lot of instruments I cannot think many ways. You buy a rotary tool (and you can find it VERY cheap), you use a proper bit, a base that you can buy find again VERY cheap or make your own https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/328668-my-new-home-made-dremel-purfling-router-tool/ and that's all. Some corners or edges you have to finish them by hand. You finish purfling chanel in less than 5 minutes (except corners). Once you try that - you never go back! If you look it from the capitalistic or marxistic point of view etc.> Time is money and effort is money too If you do it by hand - there is one way to make is easier // go VERY SLOW, be patient and stop imediately when you feel tension. Urstudien > Flesch > he wrote about how many violinists destroyed from constant tension and he proposed immediate breaks about 30-40 seconds, if I remember well, to restore the blood circulation.
  6. Some holes where used in order to place the frog in a solid base and work the underline (the 45 degrees at ebony) .. Otherwise you have to vise it from both sides. (about weight... No. It is pointless to make this hole to control something)
  7. Thank you very much for that.
  8. Please, can you tell me how you do it? I made various driers but never lead acetate. Now it is time. I have lead from old tubes. I cut small pieces plus -> vinegar (or acetic acid) + Hydr. peroxide? And when the oxide is ready, do I have to dry it and use it as powder inside varnish? I use pale siccative for years with no problems at all - except it is a bit slow / does lead acetate has any difference or it would be a time loosing process? Thanks
  9. http://www.rublevcolours.com/about-us/store-locator/ Rubluev color list is big enough and you can search for sellers from store locator. https://www.hammerl.com/ Hammerl? https://www.madinter.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=Color Madinter https://maderasbarber.com/tonewood/en/search?controller=search&s=Color Maderas barber https://www.clou-shop.eu/holzbeizen/pulverbeizen/clou-spiritusbeize.html For aniline and water based dyes For Oils (personal choice) - Old holland
  10. I agree. You are right. But, if you make some frogs, screws etc.--- you can realize some things immediately... And I had very strict instructor... So, you mean it has good playing properties (Stiffness, Balance, weight etc). Ok , if you like how it plays, it is another thing / personal. Did I comment on that? No. If it plays great, that it is. I never asked details about the bow maker. I asked you just about a phrase (nice stick). Of course it would be unproductive to discuss about a bowmaker, because if you trust what someone told you, you do not ask at forum for extra opinions.
  11. Mass made bow (German?) .. Look tip and frog. Someone remade tip - revarnished (seem that does not know the job since looks unsealed/or bad varnished). Also messed up with tip corners at the back side. Frog is out of commenting - button too (out of center). Grip.. Off comment too. Put at least that leather straight... What does your bow maker mean - it is a good stick?
  12. First you have to know what horn you have and from which animal. Ox, deer, imitation etc. You can polish it nice if you have a rotary tool (dremel like) and attach polishing bit. With light sanding (1500-2000) and some rouge (very fine) you can make it shinny. Avoid oils. If it is imitation decolored shellac will help the result.
  13. I have no idea. If you google Kawasei you will find everything that is available on internet. Here you can buy just one (No 13 ) from ebay. I found it in 1 minute -- just google a bit...
  14. https://www.fine-tools.com/japcarv1.html Here you have the same in the set. Hm, you will have to find it in Japan, if you buy just one. Woodcarving - in violin making process has no use. (or maybe you can cut purfling ends.. Maybe) If you buy it from Japan or Europe.. You will pay a lot + import charges. Think about purchasing a grinder, find an steel rod and make it. (or a friend with grinder or milling machine)
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