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Everything posted by GeorgeH

  1. I don't think that any part of the button is even original.
  2. GeorgeH


    I am curious about what one does with an old violin like the OP's if the bridge feet have made in indelible impression in the table wood aligned with a too-long body stop. Would you still recommend moving it?
  3. You'd certainly need to pay him very well for his time.
  4. Respectfully, I don't understand why a luthier would refuse to work on an instrument solely because it was not purchased at their shop. I understand if they already have too much work and want to give their instrument purchasers first priority, but, for example, lots of people move or travel away from the place they purchased their instrument and still need repair and maintenance services. I also understand that some people don't understand that repairing and maintaining instruments by a skilled luthier is expensive, but there is no reason to cut rates because of their lack of understanding. Post your hourly rates and the price of routine repairs in the shop.
  5. This frog looks German to me. In my opinion, screws instead of pins in the liner, the round ferrel, and the shape of the thumb-projection don't fit a Tubbs frog. What "traits" did you point out?
  6. Ouch! Is there a way for a non-luthier to tell if a soundpost is too tight? Do soundposts installed in a humid summer get tighter in a drier winter?
  7. Thank you, Don and Jacob. @jacobsaunders, have you ever seen a soundpost crack that started at the soundpost without evidence of any physical impact?
  8. Still broken, no matter how you slice it.
  9. Yes. I expect that it started as a saddle crack. I was thinking that, too. So it would be unlikely then that a sound post crack would develop initially at the sound post due to plate shrinkage? I wonder if sound post cracks that start at the sound post without apparent cause ("spontaneous" soundpost cracks) are ever observed. Don, do you think that keeping tension on the strings of a violin in storage reduces the chances of a soundpost crack?
  10. @ghunt I can upload pictures in Google Chrome but not in Apple Safari on Mac. I emptied the cache in Safari, but still get 200 error.
  11. I recently found a very nice violin c. 1925 that had (probably) been in a case for decades. Soundpost was up with a lovely saddle crack running over it. I was wondering if this crack was likely started by plate shrinkage. While this crack is definitely worth patching, I began thinking about the violins I own that simply don't get played often (not never, but not often). All of these have had soundposts installed by an excellent luthier. I keep the humidity controlled, but I am wondering how often do seemingly spontaneous soundpost cracks occur, and what I can do to avoid them.
  12. True. But I am wondering also about more subtle causes, and how to avoid them.
  13. There is a nice curated collection of violins going up for auction here. Whether or not a particular violin collection interests me as a buyer, I appreciate a collection with a focus. https://www.invaluable.com/catalog/tx99ljjhci?size=50&page=1&categories=&searchWithAll=violin
  14. In the experience of luthiers and restorers here, what is the most common cause of soundpost cracks in the top? Impact damage? Plate shrinkage? Poorly fit soundpost?
  15. Is the back cleated? Can you see any pins in the top or back? Can you describe anything about the linings? From the pictures, the rib corners do look mitered rather than pinched, and the grafted scroll is pretty rough compared to the rest.
  16. Sort of a built-in permanent mute.
  17. If a dealer is truly interested in selling an instrument that needs restoration, they will prefer to buy the instrument outright as-is and do the repairs in-house. That way they control the quality and costs of the work. I have never heard a dealer say, "I will buy it once you have it repaired/restored someplace else."
  18. Yes, they work very well. I use them in both violin cases and cabinets. If you don't let them completely dry out, they can be used for a full winter season. Even if they fully dry-out, I have found that if I soak them long enough, I have been able to rejuvenate them. How long they take to dry-out will vary depending on the room humidity and the air-tightness of the case. I only use DI water for soaking. I have never used Stretto hygrometers.
  19. Picture loading is broken for everybody. Personally, I am missing the discussions about whether a bow is a Satory or a Glasser.
  20. If I sent a video for a high-level competition, it would certainly be dismissed within the first 12 seconds...
  21. @Alexander James Stew It can be hard to photograph bows well. On of the challenges is when a frog or head is on a flat surface, it is difficult to resolve the object from the shadows underneath it, which is a problem with these pictures. One way to improve this is to suspend the bow above the surface with lighting adjusted so the shadow is offset from the back of the bow. For example, I will suspend the bow by placing it across two stacks of books of 10-15cm in height with the end I am trying to photograph suspended over a slight surface. Then I place the lighting at an angle so the shadow is offset. When I take the photograph, I make sure that the camera focused on the bow in the foreground. You can also try a black or dark background beneath the suspended bow. I am far far from a professional photographer, but this seems to work somewhat better for me than simply photographing it lying flush on a light surface. Also, when trying to compare or identify a frog, pictures from all angles are essential: profile, rear, slider, and liner. Be sure that the picture captures the whole object within the picture borders so that one can judge the proportions, such as length of the ferrel compared to the length of the thumb projection. I'd post some example pictures, but posting pictures here is still broken as of 7/5/2021.
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