Mark Norfleet

I do.

I personally don't usually want a loop in front of the TP that the string passes through and just use some crude know of unknown name to keep the string from passing through the hole in the TP. Usually the instrument will sound better this way. Sometimes I'll tie the end of the string around a small piece of toothpick or other small piece of wood if the knots have been pulling through.

Yes. I think there’s also a part for one in a Bach Brandenburg concerto, the fourth I think. The instrument in this video looks very much like one I made, but I’m not aware of it ever being used in performance.

I completely agree with this post by Davide Sora, and am always impressed with his clarity and generosity while commenting here. Whether or not it will work to try to work glue into the opening and clamp it will depend on your skill in doing so and how much of a gap there was to begin with. Double check the joint before you put varnish on it as openings such as this have a nasty way of hiding. Good luck with the repair and learning opportunity. It might be a good idea to re-read this thread and contemplate how you'll made your center joints the next time. https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/347730-center-joint-gap/

Like Eric and Thomas, I don’t see a crack, just a sizable pore in the wood that happens to coincide with the surface of the peg. As for the loose ornaments, that’s usually one of the first things I check when there’s a sound problem of any kind. It’s something I learned the hard way. It’s still astonishing to me how much a loose ornament can muck up the sound of a violin or viola. My preferred adhesive for loose ornaments is the stuff pictured below. Like Titebond it can easily be cleaned up with water, but the great thing about it is that it does not shrink as much and remains a bit pliable, so there’s less likelihood of a recurrence. It also dries fairly transparent.

It's really not all that difficult with a little experience. Mostly I've not messed with it, but have started doing so recently and some of my customers have actually noticed and appreciated it. That said, if that's daunting to you, perhaps it's time...

If that is due to oil or wax content, clean the surface with an appropriate solvent just before gluing.

Most of the viols I’ve worked on, and all that I’ve made, have “C” shaped sound holes. Yes, the fit can be checked with a mirror all the way around, top and bottom. It is certainly easier with “f” shaped sound holes and a convenient hole through the bottom of the instrument.

Perhaps the same way many of us do now, by using a mirror.

It’s not so difficult to gauge vertical orientation by assessing the distance from the post to the C bout rib top and bottom to find a starting point. I’ve never worried much about absolute verticality though.

Yes, but you have to find the right person to do that work. There is typically a lot that can be done by relatively simple adjustment if the instrument is well maintained and in good health. Finding the person is the trick. Good Luck!

These are very easy to work under. https://www.visioneng.us/mantis-stereo-microscope_lp/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInc_7tI2v9AIVpxXUAR1fqwFgEAAYASAAEgJTE_D_BwE New ones might be more than you want to spend, but they are pretty available used on eBay.

How would you know this?

That’s the first thing I thought about too, and if there’s only one string on the instrument, probably not.

They typically crack there due to stress from an ill fitting fine tuner, or one that has had the little nut that holds it in place tightened too much.

It’s not worth trying to repair it, but it is possible. You’ll be far better off to simply get a new one.

I hadn’t looked at the date of the OP. Whomever put the hair in that bow has regular failures. I was about to suggest sending it to Jerry P. Good luck with the recent work!

I was reading this on a small screen and thought for sure it had been written by Burgess.

It can, but won't be the right tool for the job for many reasons. There's likely to be too much play in the quill to do what you want to do accurately and also not have high enough RPM for the size cutter you'll need for the channels.

Cutting the channel with a Dremel works, but set-up and getting the cutter to work well can be a bit of a challenge. Once you do get it working well it does require intense concentration to do the job right without telltale marks. The good thing is that it's an easy thing to practice on scrap pieces. Enjoy!

Two more suggestions…, spread out the wear and tear on your fingers over time, and get your knives as sharp as you can. Very sharp tools make the work much easier! Make it three…. Use a little old dried soap on your knifes, that helps too.

I disagree, with just a bit more work this would make excellent kindling for a fire.

It’s up to you, and the person who made it to decide.

It's not my favorite color for a shop wall (mine are beige and white) but I think I wouldn't bother spending the time to change it and do other things instead, like covering it with whatever is on the walls of your current shop.