Mark Norfleet

How do you know? There are a number of different types of epoxy and cyanoacrylate. I’ve seen both of these exhibit some crystalline properties.

Usually just a minute or two, but I don't just put the bridge on the hotplate and walk away. I hold it in place with the part which is the most convex against the surface of the hotplate so it gets the most exposure and frequently check progress with a straightedge. Sometimes an area will be changed a bit more than wanted and then I'll heat the other side. Usually I'm not going for a flat surface on the back of the bridge since I don't make mine that way, but rather a bit convex.

Since Burgess is apparently sleeping in these days…, I don’t know what he does it, but I have a smooth top PID controlled hot plate that I set to near the boiling temperature of water and use that, along with a bit of water as he does, to coax bridges back into their desired shape. I also make a gauge stick which fits between the fingerboard and the bridge to help players assess the desired position for the top of the bridge and encourage them to use it, often repeatedly. That helps!

I was too lazy to comment last night…

It is indeed good stuff, or the similarly formulated “Goop”, but I avoid using it if I can to stay away from the toluene and whatever other solvents may be in it. It’s also not so easy to clean up…

Burgess beat me to it! Regular super glue is kinda brittle and using it in this application hasn’t worked well for me. I’ve not used flexible SG, but do use a water based clear bathroom and kitchen caulk. It’s easy to clean up and I have had very good long term results with it. I also use it to quell the rattles/buzzes that can occur between tail guts and the holes they go through on the tailpiece.

A few disaster possibilities and avenues for exploration... https://www.google.com/search?q=buzzes+on+maestronet&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari&iga=1&utm_campaign=safari_share_1

Unless of course there is an existing issue that doing so can remedy... Not all pegs fit as well as we would like them to!

How much material do you have to remove? I do as much trimming as possible before gluing one on and usually only have a half mm or so to remove. I typically do that with a scraper and just rest my hand on the fingerboard to use as a guide. I also have a 75 mm long section of pillar file I can use to blend things if I need to.

Likewise. And seeing photos of his very nicely made instruments.

I think I’ve only used a Tormek once or twice. Using CBN wheels after decades of conventional dry grinding with K bond Aluminum oxide wheels really feels like cheating.

Mine is a “Wood River” brand which I probably got from Woodcraft. Other places to look are… Sharpening Supplies Plus Wood Turners Wonders.

I’ve not used them on a Tormek, but CBN wheels are fantastic.

This is true, Glutaraldehyde does the same. I’ve done it, but only once and not on a violin.

Yes, I recall Bjorn mentioning the preservatives in a talk 30 or so years ago. It’s never been a concern for me and clearly wasn’t for him. I have about 5 lifetimes worth of M&H glue, unless I start doing a lot of veneer work…