Mark Norfleet

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About Mark Norfleet

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  1. Like Jeff, I remember him well. Certainly an interesting and enthusiastic character who always had an amazing number of interesting instruments with him when he passed through Ann Arbor. He passed in 2012. https://www.schultzfuneralhomes.com/obituary/Daniel-Draley
  2. I'm not seeing that option now. Did you remove it?
  3. Not yet... I don't have a photograph of the method I use for keeping adjacent sides of a crack level, but expect to have to utilize it soon while repairing a busted Burgess and will take some photos and post them to this thread then. What is a "conventional pillar clamp"?
  4. That was my first reaction too, but I've been puzzling over this for a while wondering what I'm missing. Unless I'm mistaken..., it can only help localized curling unless the wedge spans the crack (which it seems to be doing just a little in the photo) or only bears on the opposite side of the top.
  5. Ooooo, and it's thixotropic too! I should get some. Do you happen to have an easily providable source?
  6. That's a good point. My edges don't have crests when I glue plates on, so the spool clamps spread the small amount of force they apply over a relatively large area, much of which gets removed. I make things fit well and save my (somewhat diminishing) physical prowess for other activities. I am what I am. Thanks for the reminder to add spinach to my shopping list.
  7. Only for a few simple reasons..., the spindle clamps are a little faster to use and I wouldn't want the Herdim clamps to possibly be compressing soft finished areas of tops.
  8. It never even crossed my mind to toss my spindly clamps. I still use them occasionally during odd repair clamping set-ups, and they still make sense for making. I wouldn't use the Herdims for that.
  9. Doing as you describe does not solve the problem, so it's not refusal, it's a desire for a better solution. Covering the rib with plastic film of some sort just plain works and can be close to invisible if done well and last for several years if not decades. Perhaps you've just seen poor examples...
  10. The contact film, as I have mentioned earlier, has gone through some changes over the decades. The stuff I used to buy at my local hardware store was great and would stick well to a reasonably well varnished rib. About 20 years ago it changed, and it has such low adhesion I don't use it for anything except the occasional simple clamping caul liner, but I do use the backing paper as outlined in the Triangle strings article if I'm using 3M packing tape on a rib. After Jeffrey mentioned a different product on this forum, I bought this: https://www.ebay.com/c/1201038713 Which seems identical to what I was using for a long time and sticks well to sound relatively smooth surfaces. I can send you a sample if you like. It holds up really well to hard use over several years, but is best applied to a fairly smooth varnished surface. Usually I'm putting it on ribs I've retouched , so I have some say in how smooth the surface is... I've never seen the Kittrich stuff pucker after application, but packing tape does from time to time.
  11. Agreed, but should I get another set expecting to get 20-25 years use from them... As a side note, mine have seen VERY little sunlight given the location of my shop space.
  12. I’m not familiar with Regalrez 1126. Perhaps it’s similar to Soluvar, which is also soluble in mineral sprits. I should probably try that...
  13. Shellac doesn't hold up very well for many players, tape does.