Mark Norfleet

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About Mark Norfleet

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  1. It doesn’t appear to be available any longer. While poking around I did see one reference to it being fish glue.
  2. You may also have the problem of the grooves for the strings on the upper nut not being shaped properly. If the strings are breaking between the nut and the peg, this is likely the case. A mouse tail file can be used to make the radius of the grooves larger than that of the strings, not to mention shaping it so there is a nice gradual curve in the nut along the path of the string so that there are no kinks etc. Good Luck!
  3. I briefly had trouble trying to post a public message this morning. Reloading the page seemed to fix the problem.
  4. This is a good and thoughtful post post Nathan! Thank You.
  5. Thank you both for your responses. I am however surprised there have not been more! I should add that I often use linen in areas where there are multiple cracks that are close together, usually on tops right next to the upper and or lower blocks.
  6. How can dendrochronology prove when an instrument was made?!
  7. Recently a customer brought an older instrument to me that they are considering buying for my opinion on it’s health etc. The instrument is in generally good condition with 4 or 5 cracks in the top that seem to have been recently repaired. Those cracks appear to have been repaired well and are stable. The thing I’m unsure about however is how they were reinforced on the inside. I, like most, use a series of small light cleats (glued to the inside) along most cracks with the grain perpendicular to that of the top (or back). I’ve seen parchment used to reinforce cracks on a few instruments and was not impressed with the apparent stability of the arching or the effectiveness of reinforcing the cracks themselves and wound up re-gluing at least some of the cracks and replacing all of the reinforcement on those few instruments. On this instrument, nearly all of the crack reinforcement has been done with what looks like very fine silk fabric. Fine enough that I can easily see the wood grain through it. My question is, does anyone here have experience with the long term effectiveness of that method of crack reinforcement? Questions of sound aside, I do wonder how long the joints will stay glued. Any thoughts and insights are welcomed, but I’m especially interested in those from folks who have had long term observations and experience with this method. Thanks Much! Mark
  8. I’ve soaked out a bass bar once and reused it on a modern violin. It worked out OK, but I won’t be doing that again.
  9. You don’t need it, but it won’t hurt. Just be careful to keep debris from getting between the top and cast. I use Saran Wrap or something similar over the cast and replace it regularly.
  10. It always starts with denial...
  11. So Jerry has connections at the White House!
  12. I think I would have removed the bass bar and glued the cracks before making the cast. I'd then likely do the post patch and do the cleats and bass bar last before gluing the top on.
  13. I’m going to disagree. Though there was a lot of narration over the other recording, she played on the lower strings much more and that’s where the qualities of a well adjusted good sounding instrument really shine, and especially the particular qualities of Guarneri violins I’ve heard and and played.
  14. You’ve probably not seen my roughing technique...
  15. :) That has always been on my mind when I use and carry it around!