Joe Wiese

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About Joe Wiese

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  1. Absolutely correct in a general sense. Also in a general sense the different maples do follow some general harness/ density trends. Good clarification on your part. Thanks for not beating me up on my generalizations, yet pointing them out. Points to your character. The problem with online forums is It is so difficult to include the vast amount of information, that is often contradictory at times, in a complete fashion, to answer a question accurately as possible. I'm not sure what got into me that I posted, as that is a rare thing. I usually lurk. Probably because I just finished my 2nd cello and was still amazed at how much work it is to build a cello. You just don't know till you have done it. I was empathetic fearing someone would get a nice hard piece of Red Maple or Rock Maple (or European) and die carving it. Ha ha!
  2. I have built about 32 violins/violas. Just finished my second cello. I have gone slow on cellos because of expense. If this is your first instrument, building a cello will be like a paper airplane maker creating the space shuttle. It is huge jump in work, expense and if you screw something up critical, you have wasted all your money. You might want to build a violin first. I agree with Darnton. Find some nicely seasoned wood in your area. Work with that first. Chances are your first cello will be filled with many mistakes, mechanical and visual. Unless, you have some serious guidance to help you out. Even then... The other thing, is, poplar is softer than maple. You will appreciate that, when working on your first cello back, as it is a LOT of work. If you can find an inexpensive piece of European maple (I like Old World Tonewood) you could do that, but I would not spend a lot of money on back and sides. It will most likely be sacrificed for at best a less than optimal instrument. Also, if you buy local, Red Maple will be really a mess to work with for your first instrument. Usually harder and denser then European maple. I have a cello back of Red Maple that I am dreading to work with one day. If you get some Red Maple for your neck, (necks are expensive) I would try to have someone help you find something a little less hard and dense. It will make life a lot easier in carving. I have build 3 instruments from Red Maple. I probably will not buy any more, no matter how pretty it looks, just from a carving perspective. Good luck. It can be done.
  3. What an enjoyable mystery. Gall reactions usually develop over minutes, if not longer. I have made gall ink, from oak galls. Also, maple is not known for it's high concentration of tannins compared to oak. That is why they use Oak galls. I would guess a gall reaction is a bit unlikely but definitely not impossible. If the streaks were instantaneously produced, I would think some other impurity is rubbing out of the metal. If the color develops over a couple minutes or more, that points to a chemical reaction. In any case... I would buy a new plane. The time you will save correcting this mystery and still end up with a cheap plane with probably a cheap blade is not worth the time and money. Phosphoric acid will most likely not solve the problem. I'll skip the chem lesson.
  4. Thanks everyone. I'm kind of laughing how many views this thread has, over 300. I have been listening to Ukulele podcast where they had a few podcasts with makers etc. They had some makers on, talked about wood, bracing, strings. Pretty interesting. A lot subjective and preferential, much like the world of violins etc.
  5. Yeah, I know. No violins. But there are a lot of smart diverse people here. I have three requests to build a ukulele. Friends who will pay for materials and bit more. Normally I need this like another hole in the head, but it is for friends, and family, so a good excuse to learn a new skill at low cost. I have experience building many violins, viola, some cello. No guitar or Uke, but have been researching. I live not too far from Stew Mac. I am aware of kits, but I will make these with the intent to make several more. That means molds, proper equipment. Any good instructional books? Reliable correct plans? Contacts in Ohio? Thanks.
  6. I have some Anatomy background, along with some low back issues. Sitting would put pressure in the general area of that nerve which exits out the greater sciatic notch. Also with a bent over position I would suspect it also is stretching the glut muscles and nerves a bit. Combined, that could inflame it. I stand all the time. I almost never sit if I can help it. I have several secondary piggy back benches (basically a fancy foot stool) that go on my main bench when I want to work on something delicate at eye level so I can stand. Everybody will want to give you their solution. People that have experienced any kind of back or sciatica are empathic, but their problems are all unique so advice may or may not work. As far as the pain, there could be different causes. Most likely they are compounded multiple causes such as lack of muscle, inflexibility, weight, age, perhaps disc issues (such as myself) Lack of flexibility is a huge hidden culprit as we age. We loose flexibility. We loose muscle mass. That causes the body to compensate in bad ways which lead to many problems. Physical therapy exercises will help correct the main issues, if you do them all the time. The real solution is address the holistic problems which may have led to this. I recently have found Yoga. It is kicking my ass. But I stand and sit straighter. My feet don't hurt in the morning. My whole body strength has vastly improved. The old shoulder pain is gone. The lower back feels strong for the first time in 10 years. Exercise, stretching, and weight lose is the magic pill as we age. Good luck
  7. Bending iron. You can make them for less than $50. Heating element on ebay. Aluminum cylinder on ebay. Drill it out for the element. Heat conductive epoxy from computer supply fills the space and secures the element. Mount it on a piece of aluminum with screws, or if you know welder, spot weld it. Then that on top of wood. Maybe some teflon insulation. Put a variable light switch to control temp. This is how I made my bending iron for cello. Less than $50. My first bending iron for violin was a Harley Davidson aluminum piston with a soldering iron stuck in it. Lined with copper foil to seal the gaps between the iron and cylinder. I hand ground the cylinder down to shape. Then filed it smooth. Copper Pipe sticking out of the top for size variation. Variable light switch. I have this mounted on on old butcher block. I still use that today, 10 years later. I also have mechanical timer switch on both my bending irons. This way they shut off automatically in case I forget to turn them off. Also, if you make your own, make sure your base is secure. You will be putting lateral pressure on these, and they can rock. So either heavy base, large base, or a base that can be secured to your workbench. I also used an old Stanley 102 for $15, for 9 years before I got my first Lie Neilson. (although the Lie Neilson is incredible in every way) Toothed planes are wonderful for thinning rib stock. Make one, or spend the money. You will save hours or time instead of using a scraper for the whole process. I would agree, save your money for other stuff.
  8. Well, Sorry to disappoint. I'm not going to post photos. I was at a meeting today about the Cannone. It was gently and respectfully requested that the people attending do not post photos all around. Use them only for private use. I hate to get hopes up and then have to cop out but a lot of people went to a lot of trouble to bring that violin here and allow some people some up close views. I know Genoa is very protective of it. I respect that and the people very much. I feel it would be in very bad taste if I did so. Sorry everyone.
  9. Yes, I'll post some. All those years of lurking here, I can give back a bit. Give me a day or two. I have to get out to work. Resize photos and figure out how to post but I'll get some up. The back was a bit weak in lighting and with reflections. Probably the worst view. Sides were pretty good. Lighting was not good enough to get inside that scroll and capture the gouge marks, but you could see some visually. Front was pretty good but near the upper F's lighting faded off a bit. Top arch you could get but the back arch was pretty obscure due to the support bar holding the instrument in place. I can tell already the color is not always the same in the photos as what I was seeing with the naked eye.
  10. I guess it depends Nick. I spent 3 hours staring at it today and taking probably 200 photos which ARE allowed. Lighting is pretty good. You can't use flash though. I make new instruments. At the moment I don't have too much interest in doing copies. For me living close the the exhibition, it was very interesting and worth it. I don't know how it will immediately help my building. Of course if I make a copy of the Cannone, I'll probably have more information than most people due to the the good quality photos. Lots of interesting things I saw that you can't get from a poster, or even from the few photos floating around the internet. If were in to doing a copy of of the Cannone, the visit would be indispensable.
  11. I'm from Columbus area. True, we got lucky with the Sisters City program and the Cannone. We used to joke about our city being a "cow town". Not any more. The city is growing fast in many different ways, all positive. There are reasons why we made the top 20 for the Amazon HQ2. Also our local violin shop The Loft is second to none with people that have been committed to instruments since the 1970's.
  12. I would be interested on any thoughts about bridge function from reliable sources. Also, is it truly correct to say a bridge filters? I have heard that so many times but am skeptical when I see a word used so frequently. I guess if a thick bridge is filtering high frequencies as I so often heard... Would it be logical to infer that a thin bridge filters low frequencies? In fact, a thinner bridge should flex more. Promoting Longer wavelengths. Lower sounds. Mechanically it would seem that a thin bridge should promote a deeper sound. A thicker bridge would flex less, promoting smaller vibrations, promoting higher sounds. This makes me question the convenient term "filter". I'm full of questions and full of ignorance. School me.
  13. I am actually not clear. But would be very interested.