shunkpenn

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About shunkpenn

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    Member
  • Birthday 08/13/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Shunk Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Guitars, Violins and Steinways

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  1. shunkpenn

    Bow ID Help

    Please indulge me one more time on this bow. I posted this bow for comments previously and it has been stored in a stack of bows ever since the original posting. I recently showed the bow to a friend who is a local luthier and he found the bow interesting. In his opinion the tip plate and frog are not original and the screw is not original to the frog. The bow is very stiff and still remains as straight as the day it was made. After some cleaning, I also found the initials JA inscribed on the bow. With that said, is anybody familiar with the initials or is it just initials used in the workshop by a worker to identify the bow. Thanks for taking another look!
  2. Here is a closer look at the area. Question...have you or anybody else used melting colored wax compounds into the area for this type of repair. From what I understand, once set, they are nearly as hard as wood and can be blended to match the repair. I’ve seen it done on furniture with great success.
  3. Janito You are correct...the penetration of the UV light is critical. I’ve used a couple different brands of the same product and they vary in results. I have used it on porcelain with great results. I think what I may do is try it on another frog that I have with cracks and see how it works out. I believe the product is very similar to bonding agents that are used in dentistry.
  4. Has anybody had any luck with Laser Bond? I know some people that use it for top cracks in guitars. https://www.asseenontvpros.com/Lazer-Bond-USA--As-Seen-On-TV_p_45.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwlovtBRBrEiwAG3XJ-_QxnAKx3q-xmDoeka0Up8kTRlVVa5DTZrGRPM_2TKYe_NN0z4e0KRoCl1gQAvD_BwE i wonder how it would work to mix ebony dust with this product and rub it into the crack? This product only sets-up under the blue light so there is plenty of time for mixing and matching.
  5. Looking for some advice on best practices in this type of repair. The frog belongs to a pretty nice stick so I would like to make sure I do this right. I marked in the photos in the two areas that need attention. One is a hairline crack the other is a slight chip. Much more evident in the photos then under the naked eye. Thanks for the help.
  6. Looks like he modified the label with Springfield. Any idea the city in print under the Springfield? Boston maybe?
  7. Here are a few photos of the violin....
  8. Curiosity......if I pull the top for repairs..I won’t get around to it for a few more weeks. The fiddle looks very well made and I doubt that the corner blocks are fake but I could be fooled. I will have to post some additional pictures of the violin this evening for perspective.
  9. Just started to clean-up an old fiddle and trying to determine if the lining is let in to the corner blocks. The fiddle appears to be a late 19th Century Markie and has had the top off for repairs in 1907 and 1933. The blocks look original but I guess they could have been added later. I know it can be difficult to tell from photos but would welcome any thoughts. Eventually... I’m going to have to remove the top plate for additional repairs so definitely will know then. Thanks.
  10. I’m looking for some suggestions on how to clean case material fibers off a violin. The violin acquired was dormant in a case for many years. Apparently over the years some fibers worked into various surface areas of the varnish. Has anybody else experienced this problem and any suggestions on how to clean safely without disturbing the varnish. Thanks
  11. Jacob, thank you for chiming in. I’ve been away for the weekend without cell service (always refreshing) and unable to respond. Your thoughts seem more accurate based not on my expertise but the knowledge I acquired from the seller as well as the case and various strings and implements it cam with. Overall It remains in good shape and just needs the fingerboard cleaned up and the small crack at the f-hole repaired. The lower-bout referred to earlier is intact but may look open in the photos. Overall...’should clean up fine and play well for a nominal investment.
  12. Any thoughts on this fiddle? I purchased this unknown a few months ago and still trying to find time to get it up and running. To me it looks like possibly a late 19th century Italian copy made in Germany which is fully lined and blocked. Interestingly, it has no major repairs except a pretty poor fingerboard replacement. I think it will end up being a good player....
  13. I kinda feel the same way... I guess ...”don’t fix it if it ain’t broke”.
  14. I finally got around to putting this old fiddle back together and I’m happy to report that it sounds and plays great. It is one of the lightest that I own and It’s surprising that it withstood the test of time without having more repairs....particularly to the top plate. Apparently whoever built it wasn’t afraid of thinning it out. I would like to do some more touch up around the F-holes however I’m concerned about making it look worse. Maybe someone can offer some advice on making it look a little better without getting too crazy?
  15. Here is a link to a “Finley” bow that sold at Skinner...