MarkBouquet

Members
  • Content Count

    1063
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MarkBouquet

  1. You don't know that it's fully blocked until you take the top off. Makers often glued thin pieces of wood onto the inside corners to give the impression that it's blocked.
  2. No Duane, flat bottom IBEX's have oval shaped soles. Spoon bottoms are elliptical. Unfortunately IBEX made that plane that way, to their eternal shame.
  3. How about one of these, Ernest? https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/69857-veritas-inset-plane
  4. I don't have any experiences beyond the IBEX. Perhaps someone else here will have something to say.
  5. Yes, my blades are bevel down and the mouths are still that wide.
  6. I have the 10mm blade width flat sole IBEX, and sorry but I don't want to give it up, but I just wanted to comment that a significant flaw with mine is that the mouth is a gaping 2.5mm wide. This makes it a rather crude tool, in my opinion. I also have the flat 18mm blade width size, and it also has a wide 2mm mouth. I do find them to be useful, hence I'm keeping them, and maybe they vary one to another, but mine are not refined tools for that reason. All of my spoon bottom IBEX's have tight mouths.
  7. This might not be as great for jointer/planer blades as the presenter tries to make it seem. I worked in a cabinet shop with a 25" planer and 9" jointer that used thin, flexible, disposable blades just like the ones he's sharpening. The problem as I see it is that in addition to becoming generally dull, the blades would also inevitably acquire nicks that would not hone out by any method without altering their geometry. The blades were not so expensive to justify this effort. For blades meant to be re-sharpened this might make sense. Otherwise not.
  8. I don't find shadows to be problematic, perhaps because the eight foot fixture has light coming from a long continuous strip. Also, you can get these LED tubes with either clear plastic coverings or translucent coverings which diffuse the light somewhat. I chose translucent, and I think it was the right choice for my application. The light quality is superb for me. I can judge the condition of a cutting edge, the set of a plane blade, or the markings on a ruler with a clarity that my old fluorescent tubes simply wouldn't allow. Finally, here's a photo of my fixture, and it must be ad
  9. Did you keep the four foot fluorescent fixture? I ask because I have a very old eight foot fluorescent fixture that needed replacement tubes. And it was also of an age such that it had an old magnetic ballast, the type that has PCB's in it, and the ballast was leaking. Something surely needed to be done. The solution turned out to be rather elegant. I replaced the fluorescent tubes with LED tubes made to install in the same holders (they're called tombstones, curiously enough). And because the LED tubes don't require a ballast, I was able to simply cut it out of the circuit, join the cut wires
  10. Fred saw? Surely you mean fret saw, which is meant to be used for cutting tight curves in thin materials. A bandsaw is best for cutting violin molds.
  11. This same thing could be accomplished by having the sole in front of the blade be adjustable. Then you could set the blade even with the back sole and adjust the depth of cut with the front sole, just as we do it on a jointer. But when we're taking .001"-.002" shavings I don't think this would have any practical significance. It would just be needless complexity.
  12. No, no, you misunderstand. It's not "cab-i-net." It's "cab-i-nay," like a fine Cab-i-nay Sauvignon. Does that help to clarify the situation? I really expected more from you than that, David B.
  13. I have a 6" Atlas too. The flat bed design is not as accurate as the bed design of a South Bend, for example. But it's a good lathe. Like Don, I had an original Unimat and found that the bed design lacked adequate rigidity, so accuracy suffered. And like he did, I sold mine on eBay years ago with no regrets. But I'm not a bow maker, so what do I know?
  14. Here's a quote that's repeated in every Lie-Nielsen catalog I've ever seen. "Manganese Bronze Though cast iron has long been the material of choice for mass produced tools, we use Manganese Bronze for many of our components and smaller plane bodies. It is heavier than iron and adds heft to the tool, doesn't rust, won't crack if dropped, and has wonderful warmth in the hand. It is one of the hardest, strongest Bronze alloys and wears very well, unlike Brass and softer Bronzes."
  15. Lie-Nielsen doesn't make their planes from brass. It's manganese bronze and it's enormously strong and wear resistant. I still don't believe the OP's plane was bent from being dropped. It came that way from the Lie-Nielsen shop, in my opinion. Nobody's perfect, including Lie-Nielsen Tool Works.
  16. Today's price can be found here. Pretty expensive for a saw of this size, 1080mm overall height. $12,898USD! https://www.niqua-shop.de/en/en/ehro-high-duty-band-saw-type-550-m88247
  17. That looks like a beautiful saw, Jacob. I can't see it here in person, but my impression is that it's made with uncompromising engineering quality and likely runs with smooth, quiet precision. It's interesting that it takes blades as small as 1mm, so it will do most anything the Pegas saw will, and additionally takes blades up to 5mm for more typical curve cutting. It apparently doesn't take larger blades, and has a height limit of 175mm, so it might not do all the re-sawing one might need to do. But I guess you could make friends at the nearby cabinet shop and borrow theirs for the occasions
  18. That's not normal for any block plane. It effectively shortens the plane length so it won't produce as true a surface as it should. And nothing you did was likely to have caused that. I'd lap that out, but you might consider sending that photo to Lie-Nielsen to see if they are willing to correct it under warranty.
  19. Yes. A friend of mine who teaches at a woodworking school took the warped table from their vintage Delta 20" bandsaw to a machine shop to be surface ground. The machine shop technician clamped the table down with a magnetic chuck, but with no attempt to shim it, so the chuck pulled the table down flat while it was being ground and it just sprang back to a warped condition after release from the chuck. The table was ground thinner for no reason. I can't help thinking the machine shop tech should have had a better understanding of the issues in that situation. Don't assume they understand yours.
  20. Lie-Nielsen has suggestions for dealing with your problem on their website. https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-block-planes?path=block-planes&node=4072 Click on "Tool Care."
  21. I looked the Pegas saw up and found that it's engineered specifically to use the maker's own bandsaw blades that are tiny in cross section like jewelers saw blades, but apparently ONLY those blades. It seems the saw can't accommodate normal 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" blades, so it's extremely specialized in its applications and would not be very useful as a sole bandsaw for a luthier. Carter Products in USA makes a retrofit bandsaw guide add-on, called the "Stabilizer," that operates on the same principle as the upper guide on the Pegas saw. The guide bearings on the Pegas saw are tightly matched
  22. With the blade set for a fine cut I can just get a .022"/.559mm feeler gauge through the mouth on my stainless model. The mouth is pretty tight out of the box. But you'll not be able to take coarse shavings. That screw is reliable and subtle in its functionality. I can easily back off the tension just enough to adjust the blade depth and lateral position without making the blade loose. And it would be easy to over tighten the lever cap, but, of course, why would you want to do that.
  23. I did say "The adjuster is excellent." Why doesn't that answer your question about the "screw?"