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About MarkBouquet

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    San Francisco Peninsula, CA USA
  • Interests
    Music, violin playing/making, woodworking/furniture design/making, bicycling, I'm owned by a dog,

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  1. This same thing could be accomplished by having the sole in front of the blade be adjustable. Then you could set the blade even with the back sole and adjust the depth of cut with the front sole, just as we do it on a jointer. But when we're taking .001"-.002" shavings I don't think this would have any practical significance. It would just be needless complexity.
  2. No, no, you misunderstand. It's not "cab-i-net." It's "cab-i-nay," like a fine Cab-i-nay Sauvignon. Does that help to clarify the situation? I really expected more from you than that, David B.
  3. I have a 6" Atlas too. The flat bed design is not as accurate as the bed design of a South Bend, for example. But it's a good lathe. Like Don, I had an original Unimat and found that the bed design lacked adequate rigidity, so accuracy suffered. And like he did, I sold mine on eBay years ago with no regrets. But I'm not a bow maker, so what do I know?
  4. Here's a quote that's repeated in every Lie-Nielsen catalog I've ever seen. "Manganese Bronze Though cast iron has long been the material of choice for mass produced tools, we use Manganese Bronze for many of our components and smaller plane bodies. It is heavier than iron and adds heft to the tool, doesn't rust, won't crack if dropped, and has wonderful warmth in the hand. It is one of the hardest, strongest Bronze alloys and wears very well, unlike Brass and softer Bronzes."
  5. Lie-Nielsen doesn't make their planes from brass. It's manganese bronze and it's enormously strong and wear resistant. I still don't believe the OP's plane was bent from being dropped. It came that way from the Lie-Nielsen shop, in my opinion. Nobody's perfect, including Lie-Nielsen Tool Works.
  6. Today's price can be found here. Pretty expensive for a saw of this size, 1080mm overall height. $12,898USD!
  7. That looks like a beautiful saw, Jacob. I can't see it here in person, but my impression is that it's made with uncompromising engineering quality and likely runs with smooth, quiet precision. It's interesting that it takes blades as small as 1mm, so it will do most anything the Pegas saw will, and additionally takes blades up to 5mm for more typical curve cutting. It apparently doesn't take larger blades, and has a height limit of 175mm, so it might not do all the re-sawing one might need to do. But I guess you could make friends at the nearby cabinet shop and borrow theirs for the occasions when you need that. It's just a perfect saw for a small space workshop.
  8. That's not normal for any block plane. It effectively shortens the plane length so it won't produce as true a surface as it should. And nothing you did was likely to have caused that. I'd lap that out, but you might consider sending that photo to Lie-Nielsen to see if they are willing to correct it under warranty.
  9. Yes. A friend of mine who teaches at a woodworking school took the warped table from their vintage Delta 20" bandsaw to a machine shop to be surface ground. The machine shop technician clamped the table down with a magnetic chuck, but with no attempt to shim it, so the chuck pulled the table down flat while it was being ground and it just sprang back to a warped condition after release from the chuck. The table was ground thinner for no reason. I can't help thinking the machine shop tech should have had a better understanding of the issues in that situation. Don't assume they understand yours.
  10. Lie-Nielsen has suggestions for dealing with your problem on their website. Click on "Tool Care."
  11. I looked the Pegas saw up and found that it's engineered specifically to use the maker's own bandsaw blades that are tiny in cross section like jewelers saw blades, but apparently ONLY those blades. It seems the saw can't accommodate normal 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" blades, so it's extremely specialized in its applications and would not be very useful as a sole bandsaw for a luthier. Carter Products in USA makes a retrofit bandsaw guide add-on, called the "Stabilizer," that operates on the same principle as the upper guide on the Pegas saw. The guide bearings on the Pegas saw are tightly matched to specific blades, but I find myself wondering if you couldn't use Pegas bearings with the Carter Stabilizer, and therefore use Pegas saw blades with the bandsaw you have now. But then there's the issue of the extremely limited blade length selection that Pegas offers. Anyway, don't buy a Pegas saw to be your luthier specific bandsaw.
  12. With the blade set for a fine cut I can just get a .022"/.559mm feeler gauge through the mouth on my stainless model. The mouth is pretty tight out of the box. But you'll not be able to take coarse shavings. That screw is reliable and subtle in its functionality. I can easily back off the tension just enough to adjust the blade depth and lateral position without making the blade loose. And it would be easy to over tighten the lever cap, but, of course, why would you want to do that.
  13. I did say "The adjuster is excellent." Why doesn't that answer your question about the "screw?"
  14. I have the stainless steel version of the the Veritas plane you're asking about. The adjuster is excellent. The ergonomics are excellent. The blade steel is excellent. Do you detect a pattern here? I'm certain that the malleable iron model you're asking about is equally excellent. I can't, however, argue that it's the best plane for your tasks. That's for you to decide.
  15. My luthier brands the soundposts he installs. Is that common? I appreciate it. He's saying "I take responsibility for this work."