MarkBouquet clearsky

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About MarkBouquet clearsky

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    Enthusiast

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    mlbouquet@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco Peninsula, CA USA
  • Interests
    Music, violin playing/making, woodworking/furniture design/making, bicycling, I'm owned by a dog,

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  1. Help identify French violin, obscured brand

    I'm inclined to believe that assuming this violin is a "C.W." Seidel is an unsupported leap of faith. It just looks far too new to be from the 19th century.
  2. From "Useful Measurements for Violin Makers" by Henry Strobel. For 1/2 size violins: Fingerboard height projected to bridge, 24mm. String 1 (E) FB clearance, gut, 3.0mm. String 1 (E) FB clearance, steel, 2.1mm. String 4 (G) FB clearance, gut, 4.7mm. String 4 (G) FB clearance, steel, 3.4mm.
  3. Advice for restoring chinrest

    If the finish is a coating, as opposed to a penetrating finish, it's most likely lacquer. The nice thing about lacquer is that subsequent coats melt into earlier coats, no matter how old, and bond securely. It's easy to apply and dries quickly between coats. I'd recommend "Deft" brand spray lacquer, in your choice of gloss, semi-gloss or satin. Follow the directions on the can. Easy!
  4. Silk bow wrap durability?

    Thanks for the replies. I've seen used bows with silk wrappings that looked pretty dogged and drab, so I kind of knew the answer to my question already. But it happens that I'm bow shopping now, and as I said, seeing a lot of modern bows with silk wrappings. The lack of long term durability makes me lose interest. One could always switch to a different wrap, but it's an artistic choice the makers made and I'm not inclined to cavalierly change it. Not to mention the balance changing issue. It seems a shame that so many bows I might otherwise be interested in get dropped from my list for that, but so be it.
  5. Silk bow wrap durability?

    I'm wondering about the durability of silk bow grips. Are they subject to staining? It seems like they might be a maintenance liability over the years. I've noticed that they seem to be increasingly common on new bows. Thanks!
  6. HR phretschner Bow when and by whom

    It's important to show the bow tip when asking about a bow.
  7. Violin bow ID help please

    Doesn't the round ended mortise tell us that it was cut with a vertical mill? And while I personally can't see any reason why a mortise cut that way would be in anyway inferior, it does suggest that the bow was mass produced. Bow makers use lathes and mills for operations on the frog and button, after all. Or are the mortises always cut with a mill then squared off with a chisel?
  8. Chinrests - where is your chin supposed to go?

    A side clamped chinrest, like a Teka which I use, doesn't over stress the instrument. Don't over tighten it and I don't think there will be any problems. And it's lighter than an over the tailpiece model, which is beneficial for several reasons.
  9. Advice on how to cut tree trunk into slabs

    What's the length and diameter of that piece? I'm guessing that when you factor in sapwood removal and avoidance of the tightly curved rings at the center, you're not going to get quarter cut pieces of adequate size for anything "violin."
  10. Veritas block plane

    Veritas does sell a retrofit adjusting screw that slows the blade feed down. But I personally think the standard mechanism works pretty well. I can easily adjust to fractions of .001". What more do you need?
  11. German Bow Identification

    I was hoping the experts here might find something recognizable about this bow. I'm pretty confident that the stamp is someone's trade name. I used to use this bow a lot, and I was starting to erode the crispness of the facets at the handle, so I gave it a built up shellac finish there to protect it. Consequently its a bit harder to read the stamps than it might otherwise be. They're really very legible, if I chose to remove the shellac. They're still easily read. The rings on the adjuster are not pinned. Thank you in advance!
  12. Use meat tenderizer to dissolve hide glue

    Thanks Jerry. I'll leave the post up as a cautionary tale. I had a feeling there might be something wrong with it.
  13. Use meat tenderizer to dissolve hide glue

    I saw this video from StewMac about kitchen products used in a guitar repair shop. One of the suggestions was to use meat tenderizer, which is a protein dissolver, to soften glue joints. Hide glue is protein, after all. Someone here might find that idea useful. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Secrets/Guitar_repair_using_kitchen_chemicals.html?lac_guid=2eb8e4e3-e493-e711-80da-ecb1d775572a&utm_campaign=ts0293&utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_content=ts0293_C_20170907
  14. Violist Marc Sabbah

    Leroy Geiger wrote a book years ago called "How To Make Your Own Violin." It was published by the Ernst Heinrich Roth Company and aimed at beginners. My local public library had a copy, and probably still does.
  15. Belt sander guilt

    Jim, That light on the Delta band saw is the stock and standard one they used to sell for the purpose. It's only recently that I got it to work well though, since I took out the incandescent "appliance bulb" it was designed to use and replaced it with a modern and much brighter led bulb. It must be the lighting that's making it look like brass, when it's actually cast aluminum. And the lathe is a 6" Atlas, which is not as good as a South Bend. And yes, I made that stand for the planer, many years ago now. Thanks for the compliments!