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About clearsky

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  • Location
    San Francisco Peninsula, CA USA
  • Interests
    Music, violin playing/making, woodworking/furniture design/making, bicycling, I'm owned by a dog,

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  1. I was surprised to learn of this new offering from Codabow they're calling the "Marquise GS." But apparently it's not really new. They're claiming that they've been making top of the line custom bows for select private customers for years now. They've called this the "Marquise One" line. One particular custom design was favored above all others, so they've introduced that as a standard model. It's totally new news to me that they did anything like this. I'm just wondering if anyone has any experience with Marquise Codabows they could share. http://www.codabow.com/the-marquise-experience http://www.sharmusic.com/Bows/Violin/Advanced-500--5K/CodaBow-Marquise-GS-Violin-Bow-4-4-Size.axd#sthash.v9FLby51.dpbs
  2. Medullary rays run perpendicular to the grain lines. Look at your bridge, and you'll see that the grain lines run across it while the medullary rays run up and down. Given that, how could your violin maker possibly be correct?
  3. I had a drafting teacher in college (drafting, remember that, shows how old I am) who was also a high school shop teacher. He told me a story about the time he took the high school shop's complete set of Forstner bits to a sharpening shop, and when he went to retrieve them the sharpener had ground all of them on the outside of the rim. I told a story of going to that same sharpener to get some saws sharpened, and found the sharpener asleep on his front counter. When I woke him up he apologized and said that he had a bit too much to drink the previous night.
  4. Yes, you just do it a little at a time, and let your intuition guide you.
  5. What do you got against heat? I've adjusted bows over the burner on my electric stove. Why not try that instead of some hit or miss year long project? (Of course I would only do it with cheap bows, given my lack of expertise/training.)
  6. I polish the back of my in-cannel gouges with this. I tried to photograph the end result but the glare from the mirror polish made it all but impossible. This is also a great tool for shaping and honing out-cannel gouges, as well as curved edge plane blades, etc. I have belts with grits down to 6 microns, and a leather stroping belt too. I greatly expanded the machine's utility by installing a reversing switch. I can do some sharpening tasks so quickly with this that I feel like I'm cheating.
  7. I think that your seeking "a properly hollow ground bevel" is limiting your options for no good reason. I've never seen a hollow grind on a in-cannel gouge, and I can't see any good reason for it. If you abandon that goal, your options will open up, though you may have your own reasons that I don't know about. I've had success using sanding drums mounted in a lathe or drill press, followed with a rounded hard felt wheel.
  8. I've never done it, but I've heard that for a fee commercial exterminators will allow you to put furniture into a house that they are tenting and treating. Why not violins/wood? If it were me I'd want to know that the job was unequivocally done, and I'd consider something like that.
  9. Jackson, it's a GEWA, and I bought it back in the day when they were readily available. And l'm going to hang onto it.
  10. I have a vintage Gerstner, and a Gerstner clone that I made myself, but who cares. The truth is that nuthin' beats one of these.
  11. The nut slots are so fat that it's hard to believe your instrument was designed to work at violin pitch. More likely some kind of baritone, with commensurately fat strings. I'd leave it as is. D'addario recently introduce string sets for octave violins, which might be applicable. (Then, if it were mine, I'd sell it.) Why did you feel the need to take the top off? And it's interesting that the fretboard has those longitudinal cracks. Could that be caused by what is essentially cross grain construction, with the non-moving frets resisting the board shrinkage? And do guitars not suffer that because the fretboard is always glued to the neck and top all the way down? I'm just thinking out loud.
  12. I believe that cedar is less resistant to splitting than more traditional block woods. That's why it makes good shingles. But it's probably not optimal for blocks. Of course Home Depot provides only the finest air dried, first growth, seasoned stock.
  13. Who knew? I've been using mine through the end pin hole. Now you tell me!
  14. Teak was my first guess when I saw this question. But teak has a distinct odor when cut, often described as "leathery." Teak also has a waxy feel to it.
  15. There's a label under the label you're trying to read. What does that one say?