NickIsWorking

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About NickIsWorking

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  1. The acetone should work. If not Oberlin's the place. Good luck.
  2. This is essentially what I do. I used a stick that has a bit less height. I set the whole thing down on my bench, stick side down with some hanging off. I hold the frog and apply downward pressure, I find using a bit more tape provides a bit of a cushion between the stick and slide. I then tap the stick with my hammer. This typically works, especially after gently heating the frog.
  3. Yes, blue tape. I think Kate Mohr was the one that told me about this technique.
  4. I could be off here, but I believe the acetone is fine if it's actually shell. If it's something synthetic it will eat it away. Get confirmation on that.
  5. That's essentially what I do with the tape and hammer method. I roll a piece of painters tape to fit the width of the slide, sticky side out. I apply this tape to the slide and attach everything onto a stick that protrudes from the heel a few inches. Basically the stick and frog are taped together. I then press this down, using reasonable force, onto my bench with the stick on the bottom and the frog in my hand. I then whack the protruding stick with a combination hammer. It has been very effective.
  6. Try resting it above a light bulb for a short time. The heat may help to loosen whatever is holding it. Go right to the tape, stick and tap method once it's good and warm.
  7. I may be misinterpreting what you're saying here, but it sounds like you had a problem with the screw "eject"-ing and now you have a problem with the frog sticking. If the one followed the other I would suggest that the plug inside the frog may have partially failed necessitating tightening beyond the normal range. This over-tightening may have caused the seizing you're experiences as the eyelet embeds in the wood of the mortise or the screw threads dig into, and imbed into the softer brass of the eyelet. A few spots to observe: The pearl slide: does it appear to bulging? The position of the frog: does the frog seem to be backed up further than normal when playing tension is achieved? If either of these are observed a good rehair may solve the issue. On the other hand, it could be a partially stripped eyelet. The screw could function at certain points, but slip under the tension of use. It may need a new eyelet, which shouldn't be a big deal for your bow service person to address. A good lubricant for future use is Mohr's Screw Lubricant. I think the Mohr's use mostly beeswax in their formula.
  8. I could be wrong in this interpretation, but I think the funnel referred to is when the waves pass from the part of the bridge with more surface area (above the heart) to the constricting parts with less surface area (between the kidney on each side and the heart in the middle, or the legs). If that interpretation is correct the upside down heart would still create a funnel, maybe more efficiently as you suggested.
  9. I like the drink too much absinth theory. That, I can do.
  10. Thank you millant. The ridge definitely swoops over to the off playing side. I'm curious why D. Peccatte did not straighten that ridge out. I'm not sure if that is the "S". There appears to be an "S" shape on the of playing side if you follow the top of the nose to the side, up the cheek and down the stick. The playing side is more evenly blended. I kind of feel like the character in the story where the professor instructs a student to study and draw a coelacanth.
  11. Referring to this "nick", do you mean the slight circular dip or scoop in the underside of the stick just beyond the head.
  12. They had these in a shop I did some training with in Georgia. They are great wheels.
  13. Unfortunately I can't charge to do this this nasty crack.