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About finnfinnviolin

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  1. No tear out? I’d have to see it to believe it! With my Oak wedge and shooting board method I don’t get any chips, although I do do it prior to shaping the sides, just to be on the safe side. up until now I have always done it with sandpaper on a granite block, like Andreas describes.
  2. I have a Stanley 102 with a toothed hock blade and an old knuckle lever block plane with an Ashley Iles blade. They work great for me. the 102 has no adjuster, but you get used to it.
  3. I have always used a file, or an orbital sander to finish the ends, but recently I tried something new. I made a wedge that matches the fingerboard taper out of hard oak. then I Wet the end of the board and plane the end grain of the board and the oak piece with a finely set low angle plane. With a fine cut the oak piece stops any tear out and you get a really nice finish. Does anyone else do this? if not what’s your procedure?
  4. Right don! these are held palm up and because they have a compound curve to the blade they can be used for many applications depending on the angle of the knife... they are used a lot by mask carvers... I can see some similarities in violin plates
  5. I have also been experimenting with some new knife designs based on Native American carving knifes, the double blade is nice because you don’t have to torn the workpiece around when dealing with tricky grain.
  6. 600 grit sandpaper before varnishing.
  7. Hey everyone! Its been a while, but here are some pretty revealing shots of my violin mid varnishing with a few different light sources
  8. I didn’t seal. The maple was fine, the spruce was little patchy, but really not bad at all. Next time I may use casean to seal the spruce prior to application. On my test pieces the ‘juice’ reacts with the casean and gives a slightly greenish yellow tint.