finnfinnviolin

Members
  • Content Count

    242
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About finnfinnviolin

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1013 profile views
  1. Probably won’t use them, sounds like more risk than it’s worth
  2. Has anyone used mercury vapour bulbs for tanning? I remember reading a post by someone that they used them with the outer glass removed and had really great results. I just bought a big pack of six at a thrift shop and want to experiment
  3. So true! I’ll check out the template in weisshaar.
  4. Michael Doran recently made a post about his neck profile templates. It reminded me that I didn’t have any and that I want some! I have always carved necks by feel and eye, but lately I am feeling like I would like a little more precision. Does anyone one have any advice on designing the shape? Or maybe have a good template they would be willing to scan?
  5. This is great! Could you elaborate on your process?
  6. To be honest I have no idea what angle mine is, I just assumed it was 45, but now you have me thinking i should check! It will give future restorers something to talk about!
  7. For the chamfer I use a triangular file, it’s easy to maintain a constant 45 angle this way, because you just keep one surface of the file on the same plane as the eye.
  8. Trimming down the chamfer so it’s even. And working on the undercut. For this I use a 8mm chisel with a thumbnail shaped edge, so I can trim down and the corners don’t dig in
  9. Hi! Id like the soundpost kit in pic 7 and the forged herdim soundpost setter i sent a text too. Thanks, finn
  10. Yeah I’ll try and get some today
  11. been working on the scroll this week. my process is to put most my focus in the front and back view as i carve. making sure it look proportionally right from the the front and back, and paying little attention to the side profile, just roughing it down close to the line and creating a basic undercut. the eye cuts are finalized at this point. then i add the chamfer to the rough turns of the scroll, focusing only on the inside line of the chafer and not the thickness as it follows the turns. the chamfer ends up varying in thickness and is trimmed down evenly making sure that the front and back of the turns 'pass through' the scroll. (or not depending on what im trying for) then fluting, and pegbox. feel this is a good way to get something that flows together a one object. my main focus in violin making is to try to make something that has nice flow and harmony, and works as a single sculpted object rather than many processes joined and glued together. its also pretty fast as im not reworking things over and over again, and can be pretty rough in the begining as all those parts will be cut away in the final trimming with the guide of the chamfer Not sure if this makes sense! but thats how i do it How do you?