finnfinnviolin

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About finnfinnviolin

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  1. Excellent! I’m glad you managed to save it! Thanks for thinking of us all anyway!
  2. I think that’s just an a string
  3. Spyderco make amazing sharpening stones, I recently bought a slip stone from them and it cuts insanely fast but it very fine. Similar to hard Arkansas stone, more aggressive but a finer finish. they make bench stones too, and you will never need to flatten them!
  4. Many makers use the inside line of the purfling to create their mold and corner template. It has the advantages of no wear. saying that, making an outline from a photograph has its drawbacks because of lense distortion. another way to go is to study the work of Francois Dennis, Kevin Kelley and David Beard who have all done very deep research into the design of classical instruments. Also you CAN make a violin! and my advise would be to use the harsh words of naysayers as FIRE to keep you going!
  5. Im interested in the wood, Bridges, repair clamps, and the German f hole book
  6. No tear out? I’d have to see it to believe it! With my Oak wedge and shooting board method I don’t get any chips, although I do do it prior to shaping the sides, just to be on the safe side. up until now I have always done it with sandpaper on a granite block, like Andreas describes.
  7. I have a Stanley 102 with a toothed hock blade and an old knuckle lever block plane with an Ashley Iles blade. They work great for me. the 102 has no adjuster, but you get used to it.
  8. I have always used a file, or an orbital sander to finish the ends, but recently I tried something new. I made a wedge that matches the fingerboard taper out of hard oak. then I Wet the end of the board and plane the end grain of the board and the oak piece with a finely set low angle plane. With a fine cut the oak piece stops any tear out and you get a really nice finish. Does anyone else do this? if not what’s your procedure?