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About mellowpa

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  1. Wow, I really did not expect my original post to spark this kind of discussion, but I'm glad it has. I know I have certainly learned a lot in reading through these posts. I now understand the difference between the side grain in my bow versus other examples shown here, and I believe the new bow I'm considering has a grain that is more in line with the examples. Sounds like the consensus is that there are plenty of bows from high quality makers out there with this occurrence, and I should just be sure to insure the bow. Someone earlier in the thread asked what the stamp on my Hill bow
  2. I was finally able to snap some pictures of my Hill, hopefully they illustrate what I was trying to explain. Here is a pic that shows the angle of the grain in the wood, which you can really see in the first octagonal facet: Here's the second, which shows where the crack starts (the white mark right behind the head). The crack follows the grain angle around almost four facets of the stick, so it's basically cracked halfway around. Eyeballing it, the actual length of the crack is roughly 1.5-2 cm. I've taken this to three different luthiers in my area, and they've al
  3. I'm not in possession of the replacement bow being considered, but I'll post a pic of my existing bow tomorrow when I can get better lighting to show the grain. Based on degrees, I'd estimate that the grain on my old bow starts angling about 10-15 degrees downwards from the natural curvature of the bow maybe 1.5" from the head. I can't remember exactly how the other bow looks, but I think the angle starts a little closer to the head of the bow and the degree of the angle should be around the same as my current bow.
  4. I had a nice Hill violin bow for many years, but recently found out that there is a crack in the shaft near the head that is not repairable. I had taken the bow to get rehaired and the luthier (who is also a well known local bowmaker) alerted me to the crack, and also mentioned that the crack was most likely due to the grain of the wood near the head dipping downwards or diagonal rather than going straight through the shaft. He basically told me that this piece of wood should never have been used for a bow because the angle of the grain at the head made the bow less structurally sound.
  5. Wow, there is a lot of fantastic feedback here, thanks for all your responses! Here's a little bit more information on me based on some of the questions raised. I grew up playing violin and was pretty accomplished as a youth, but at this point I'm just an advanced amateur player that just plays for fun these days, so no lessons or rigorous daily practice anymore. Since I don't play as much as I did growing up, I can't really justify having multiple bows at my disposal, so unfortunately this will be my sole bow. Based on all the comments, I'm now leaning towards going for playabili
  6. I've been shopping for a violin bow for the past few months now, and have been to all the major shops in my area, but I still haven't found anything that I love. My problem is that the bows I find with the rich and warm tone that I'm looking for have been harder for me to play - less control, harder to get off the string, feels a bit heavy. And of course, the bows that I find easy to play have a lesser tone to my ear - either weaker in general, or just a harsher/brighter tone than what I'm looking for. At first I thought this was just due to the weight of the bows, but I have been weighing the
  7. Wow, thank you all for your input, this is all incredibly helpful and is much appreciated! So it sounds like the best idea is to just go to a reputable and trusted dealer. So I guess the next logical question would be... How do I determine whether a shop is "reputable" or not? Is this just based on feedback from others in the area, or for example should I be looking to see if anyone is a member of the Appraisers Association, etc.? Incidentally, I live in the SF Bay Area and am familiar with many shops here, but I have only had real personal experience with one large and reputable dealer (Ifs
  8. Hi all, Long time reader but first time poster. I am getting ready to purchase a violin bow, which will be the first big instrument purchase that I've ever made on my own. Right now I'm deciding between a Charles Bazin and a Nurnberger, but before I spend my thousands, I could really use some guidance on how the buying process should go to make sure I am covering all my bases. I have a few pretty basic questions below. I also tried searching the forums for answers and couldn't find anything consolidated in a thread, but please feel free to link to prior threads if you know o