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    Lübeck, Germany
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    Science, NMR, string instruments

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  1. Ugly is no word for it. Terrible violin making -strangely with a decent sound.
  2. Is there no penalty among violin makers for skipping all the hard stuff on a scroll? It's a crime.
  3. I am just an amateur maker, but I can tell you, getting this middle line perfect on a scroll is hard . It is much easier to just skip it.
  4. The challenge is to identify Stradivari's genes from one of his violins and make a clone of the genius who will inspire the 21st century of violin making.
  5. I know, I know people who inhaled this stuff every day when cleaning metal. Until recently and I don't know whether this is still the case you could by a green varnish stripper in the UK which was nothing else.
  6. Lots of UV is getting expensive in some parts of the world with rising electricity costs. But the best colouring of the wood seems to be with UV.
  7. I have seen many Chinese violins looking like this. These guys do this kind of violins: https://theviolinproject.de I would say Chinese production, varnished in Germany. Well-made instruments, but uninspiring.
  8. Have you tried https://www.luthierslibrary.com/luthiers_library/ ? Alternatively: Get pictures from tarisio and scale them to size (the size of the body is usually given). Start with prints which are exactly the size of the viola bodies. Up to 16'' this fits on an A3 print, this includes Guarneri and Guadagnini viola models, everything larger does not. And Da Salo is usually larger.
  9. Whatever oil you are dealing with, it means long chained carbohydrates. There are few oils that will harden. There are two ways to get rid of oil: 1. Dissolve it in a low viscosity solvent. This could be anything that evaporates with a little heat. Acetone, hexane, dichloromethane, trichloroethane or dichloroethylene (the last two very effective, also sold as paint stripper, in the UK sold as some green stuff, not found on German shelves). This approach would be my first choice. With this stuff you rid of any oil. 2. Any type of soap removes oils. Just wash thoroughly with some water and soap. This is harder and you have wet wood afterwards, but you will remove all oil. This method kind of binds the oil to soap molecues. The disadvantage is of course that hide glue also does not stick to soap. But the soap bound oil is water suluble and can be washed away. In the end the wood will be wet, but this may be not your biggest problem. I would try to find some trichloroethane or dichloroethylene.
  10. uguntde

    Nurnberger bow

    I am not a recognised expert but have held douzends of Nürnberger bows in my hand. Nothing of this bow looks like Nürnberger. If I wanted to make a fake I would at least try to get the letters of the stamp right.
  11. Yes, veryy powerful and a beautiful tone indeed. WIth the sound post further North I am very happy with the tone. I also have a lighter tail piece which helps.
  12. Thanks for all the responses. Now handheld: Peg vs pencil makes no difference. I beat the bridge from the side on the bass side (because it is easy to access). Chromatic scale: Someone well known in this forum suggested by private message "try pulling the post tighter and moving it north a bit. That will generally tame all of the wild things, including other notes that stand out undesirably". Sound post is now 2mm from the bridge.This eliminated the need for some weight on the front.
  13. The violin sits on its side on my desk, as on the picture. I knock the bridge multiple times on the side with a peg. Maybe this is all a bit simple and I need to build a stand to do these measurements. Happy to take your advice. Do you think it is better to hold the violin by the neck (as shown in your article that I found on the internet)? This damps all the finger board vibrations.
  14. My setup is certainly nothing special: Zoom H2 microphone plugged into a mac, adjusted to make sure I don't have clipping. Maybe the trash behind the violin on my desk that needs to be dealt with has a magical negative effect. I could also use a small lavalier microphone. Is there anything obviously wrong?
  15. If I push the sound post north until 2-3mm from the bridge I get this: Now it wolves only on the upper G string, A and D string are just fine. Now the little noth at 440 shows up - is this the CBR, which is now not superimpose with B1+ any more?
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