franciscus

I see here a lot of ToneRite deniers

Slightly longer sound post would have a detrimental effect to the top of the violin.

I would like to see an explanation.

Often? I've never seen something like that.

I know about the dendrochronology just enough that I can claim that I understand the basics. Let me someone correct if I am wrong: it is one of the "fingerprint" methods, based on pattern recognition and supported by the extensive database in a few words. Statistics, as a science by itself, works as a filter between the raw and final results. In my daily work, I use the similar method for determination of properties of unknown samples of biomass, comparing the pictures taken during the fast heating of biomass samples and comparing them with the referent database. Sometimes, I analyze the known sample, take the picture and add them to the database, aometimes I just use the database as a resource (in a few words, also). The other one example is something I've seen at the Carrara (at the university), where the same method was used (around year 2000) for determination of kind and origin of the marble's samples. Besides that, all uncertainties about the statistical methods can be very eficientlycleared with the first doctor carrying a Ph.D.

One can find these 4 digits numbers in the violins imported in U.S.A. by William Lewis and Son between two WW.

How do you know that's an accession number instead, for example, the serial one? Is there some additional remarks besides the number itself?

Everything is fine, but I cannot imagine the method for "faking" the flames on the inner side of the back.

Please, some example. I've never heard of painting of flames on the inside of the backs. The chatoyancy is something very prone to be hidden under the not-so-good sealer/ground-varnish system, so I do not think that one can use it as a determining parameter.

My two very tiny coins: in this situation, I would ask Jeffrey Holmes for an appointment.

My two coins: I would not remove anything from any violin, besides regular replacement parts (soundpost, bass bar, broken block etc), and those parts only if I absolutely have to remove them. Even if you would have proper certificate, IMHO, that certificate should state that the label exists in the violin. I would never peel something that I did not glued, if I can avoid it at all.

I've never seen any misspelled label in Czech violins, which is not the case if we are talking about Chinese products.

Seems to me that two rules may be applicable here: Gibbs' rule number two (Always wear gloves at a crime scene) and the fourth The Leave No Trace principle (Leave what you find).

Maybe I missed something important, but what I see here is the piece of the stick of the broken bow from mass production.

Spirocores?

Yes, they have, but D's are not on sale. G's are. I have a few too.

This is what I intended to write here, but Rue wrote it. That way, I have been at the places that I otherwise never visited, met all kind of people, mostly very friendly; sometimes I have bought something, sometimes not, but my best friend - my wife - and my minority always have something to add to our memories.Out of topic, but I had to say...

I don't think so. £500 is rather decent price for properly setup Maidstone violin - what you have is one sturdy, dependable instrument, made with the students in mind. Good buy, I'd say and good luck to you!

Frankly, I do not know how the joint itself looks like, because the breaks in the bows I had in my hands was created at the end of the rod that goes from the head through the stick. The joint itself is not visible, because it is covered by the outer layers, but I suppose that the stick goes all the way to the head. The rod probably goes more deeply in the head and its end from this side is more stable than the other end, because of more material around it.

I am happy you're sure that I am wrong in my statement - if you are so sure because you have some experience in that regard. My statement was based on my own experience with only four broken carbon fiber bows, all broken at the same place. I am talking, remember that, about ordinary Chinese bows with the price up to US$100. If one examines the break, one can notice that the break was created at the tip of the rod (some 3 mm diameter) that goes from the head to the stick, which itself consists from the core and outer layer(s). The core has not the full profile as far as I could see, but it is rather the tube (most likely pultruded). Just outer layer(s) has (have) fancy pattern and cover the whole bow (the stick and the head). Regarding the manufacturing reason to do that that way, there are a few - the stick can be made by pultrusion of the fibers or by wrapping the rowing around something, while the head can be made by stacking of the sheets. The joining of these parts is simple - the rod embedded in the head goes into the hole in the stick and whole job finishes with outer layer(s) and the final thermal treatment of that composite. That way needs the human being only in the last step before the thermal treatment, speaking about the optimization of the mass production.

What I see is the crack that goes from the upper eye of the bass side f-hole toward to the bottom, very near to the bass side of the bass bar. Interesting head.

Mr Capone sat wherever he wanted and, consequently, all tables were considered his favorite

You determined the continent (probably) and millennium. Good basis.

Believe or not, it is not an impossible mission, even remotely. One just have to know how to do that I do not know how it is going with the expensive carbon fiber bows, but ordinary Chinese carbon fiber bow are made from two parts - the stick is one and the head is the other. The point of connection is the weakest point - you can see it on the picture, covered by the CA glue. This bow has been caught between the door and its frame, and cracked rather easily. Now, i am waiting for the ordered 2 mm center drill bit, because it has proved impossible to start the hole in the bow (for the 2 mm carbon fiber rod which is supposed to pass some 10 mm in the stick behind the crack) using just the ordinary drill bit. The nick on the "nose" is the consequence of unsuccessful attempt.