franciscus

Nice, radical screwdrivering. After - say - two six-packs and two third of cheapest whiskey's bottle, I think that I would be able to copy that rather successfully. My vote goes to some talented Chinese antiquing artist.

I did not mean "amateur maker", but some hopeful amateur repairman.

I do not think that this instrument has anything with China, rather with some brave amateur. Besides the very weird situation around the button, seems to me that I see the replaced or re-glued scroll. Also, I really would like to know the function of the hole drilled near the G peg.

Cogratulations, Don.

I had a various problems with the IV website since my first login, but IV has Ken, who solves everything (means EVERYTHING) and I shamelessly use it.

Are you serious? Really?

2016 Catalog is still current for 2017. ::D But, seriously, look at the website.

I am not, for sure, the good mentor for this kind of work, but I can tell a few words, from my point of view. Looking at this crack, seems to me that it is fresh and clean, so maybe there is some space for shortcuts: you do not have to take the top off, but you need to have something like that. You do not have it, so, take the top off. The crack is long enough to think about the keeping its sides in line during the curing of the glue. I use these small beasts, oiled on the surface in contact with the wood, stacked along the crack. I do not know in this moment where are my clamps, because my workshop is in the transition from my kitchen to my balcony, but they have been made using this design ("Across-the-arching clamp"). OK, you can buy the appropriate clamps, but I think that the mentioned clamps are just enough and you can made them while you are waiting for the violin. Congratulations for the purchase, I think that you did bought the very nice instrument. I really would like to know what is it really. It is not the sample, it is the playing tool, but where, when and , hopefully - who, would be very interesting to know.

This repair is not complicated. Take the top off, glue the crack, put a few cleats (the first one a little bit behind the start of the crack) and glue the top back (the saddle has to be shortened a bit (A BIT) from both sides).

Second that. The repair is inline and it would not be cheap.

A few photos could tell much about this crack. If the repair is recent, it is very possible that some of the photo documentation about it exists somewhere, because it is the procedure that is not simple nor common.

No one bidding.

International violin introduces Warchal's string in their new catalogue. Dictum has them, too.

The hole started with the 1,5 mm center bit and drilled with the 2 mm spiral bit, as long as the drill bit allowed (about 30-35 mm). Break itself was glued with CA glue, the remaining white mess is the co-lateral damage of broken bone tip repair. The rod is glued with Bison Universal Epoxy.

Actually, I had, a couple of years ago: And i used your technique two times, rather successfully, even I made my jig from hard wood dowel, instead from brass. But now, I am in the situation described here: I could repair it using the same technique, but, because this bow is my own one, I wanted to experiment a little. My plan is to clamp it onto the compound table, set the drill in the horizontal position and drill through the head into the stick, about 15 mm after the break point. The compound table ensures enough precision, and the only problem is to start the hole. I am afraid that you're right regarding the center bit, maybe the diamond ball or similar toy would be the better tool... We'll see how it is going when I have the center bit. Thanks for help and comments! Cheers, Franc

Thank you, Stavanger. Cheers, Franc

Thanks, Edi. This time, the pin was ou of question, because I already had the slot cut with the straight, not circular saw and I had to follow that way. I used the carbon fiber pin a few times, successfully as far as I know and I think that is the very good method for most cases. I have one broken carbon fiber bow that I intend to repair using the pin, but I have to drill the hole through the stick (because the break is behind the head), and I'm waiting to ordered centering drill bit 2 mm dia - I cannot find it locally, and I cannot start such a small hole in the head without it.

Agreed, but sometimes some small white lie makes one feeling better

Thanks a lot, Rue, I needed such a comment . About two months ago, you asked for an opinion regarding cheap, no name tools and machines, so, I can tell a few words about my recent experience with the cheap Chinese compound table, which I purchased in order to become able to do some precise operations. This time, I was really lucky - I received everything I ordered and everything works properly without need for modding or some special techniques for set this thing up. Maybe these things are getting better?

The battery is full, the camera is ready, scrapers sharpened, new 6-step nail buffer purchased. So: here is how it is look like now: Actually, looks better, but I cannot avoid the reflex from the flash. Not so bad for the first bow tip spline in my life, I'd say. Many thanks to all who participated here, for the advice, tips&tricks, tool design etc. Cheers, Franc

The blade was not placed all the way into the slot, the picture is just the illustration. The slot was made as deep as possible, with the saw of only 25 mm diameter (I know that the bigger saw is much better, but I used what I had). I used the carbon fiber insert, so I haven't problem with the grain orientation. The former (failed) repair was made with ebony insert. Edit: you're right, in this picture, the blade WAS PLACED all the way into the slot (I have three pictures, almost identical). With this saw, that's all, folks (regarding the slot's deepness).

Seems to me as a real violin.

Hello, Edi. You're right, i made a mess with the glue, but I had a reason for that: tried to be as fast as possible and shortened the time between cleaning and gluing. I used the acetone as a cleaning agent and I am afraid that the acetone could dissolve the protecting tape and left even worse sticky mess. This way, the another scrapers sharpening exercise is in line I had a reason for using the string too (from the Bison's "Technical documentation" for the used glue): Wonderful engineer's job with the simple tools that you have shown really impressed me. Congratulations and thanks! It is something that I know, but remember it just after the bite. When using the new toy (compound table) seems that I play more on the safe side (I found it very cheap, and works excellent). Regards, Franc

OK, I have an update: I cleaned the surfaces of the break with the acetone and glued the break with thin Bison CA glue. Pressed with the fingers for a few minutes and left aside, wrapped-clamped with the 0.5 mm rope for two days. And then, something I had (the drill, 25 mm diameter - 0.3 mm thick circular saw, and the drill press); something I bought (the Chinese compound table); something I made (the clamp for the bow - Brad & Mat: thanks a lot) and voila: After that, I cut the circle 25 mm diameter from 0.3 mm carbon fiber sheet and cut it into two halves. Carbon fiber sheet had transparent layer at the one side, so I sanded it away and sanded the other side too. Cleaned all with the acetone and glued two halves into the slot with the Bison Epoxy Universal (I was pretty fast here). Clamped and left aside a few days. The battery in my camera is empty, so.. When I finish, I would post a few pictures more. Edit: I cleaned the existing slot and deepened it using the two circular saws (0.3 mm thick) together, because the existing slot was about 0.7 mm wide.

In that particular case, "slightly" meant about 8 mm