franciscus

Your drawing shows the repaired peg box (cheek patch).

60?

Thanks a lot! It is logical, but only if you know that Now, I know.

Honest approach, I'd say.

if the peg box cracks during your "setup", who would pay the repair and devaluation?

I do not think that there is any seller willing to allow you something like that. Are you willing to pay the seller to set the violin up so you could test it?

Here is it.

Lower ribs were shortened (perhaps it was one piece originally), saddle replaced - original saddle was inset to the ribs (and the block?) - one can see the patch under the actual saddle. P.S. I do not think it's Saxon.

I see "AHS" there, which is not something unusual. The label seems oold enough - traditional method of printing, as far as I can see, the lead letters stacked in the letterpress. The only one thing that confused me is "FUR", instead of "FÜR".

You missed the smiley?

Oh, no - if one unrolls the pouch, its contents would be an arm's reach again

Something like that? I do not have a shop. so I use the similar pouches for the storage of my tools.

...and you do not intend to tell what you discovered at the end?

I do not think that any question can be really dumb, but in the same time I think that strange, weird or unusual questions exist and very often they are very funny, even sometime impossible to answer.

Conor & VdA, thank you very much for the advice. I will try and post a few pictures, but only if it finishes well

Thanks a lot. The masking tape crossed my mind already - still thinking about it. Regarding the wrapping the skin twice, the skin I have is so thin that I can do that four or five times to reach some 0.5 mm of final thickness - think I should try. Cheers, Franc

VdA, I know what the skiving is, even have a tools and know how to do that I have no problem with the leather I usually use - lamb skin or goat skin, but these skins are much thicker and softer. I saw a few bows with the very thin grip from some similar beast over the whalebone winding and the feeling was not very good - hard under the finger and one can see and feel the winding under the skin. Regarding the laminating, I already tried it, but with wrong glue: with neoprene contact cement, the structure delaminates rather easily. Intend to try PVAc. Do you have some proposal regarding the glue? Seems that you purchased whole stock That eBay store is empty.

Once upon a time, it was nice, silent, funny topic with on-topic posts.

Please, a few more words

I thought about it - backing the skin with the other leather and glue that composite onto the bow or gluing the "other" leather onto the bow and covering it with the thin skin, maybe the second variant seems better (analogy with the repair of the bow's tip). Regarding the customs', I had not any problem - OK, the skin has been sent as an letter, maybe that kind of parcel pass under the horizon..

Recently, out of curiosity, I have bought one sea snake skin from Indonesian supplier. Very thin, (0.1 mm max) , very strong and extremely good looking. He offers the skins of the various reptiles for affordable prices and I asked him to tell me if he has the thicker skins for sale. He answered that the thickest skin in his assortment is the python's skin with the thickness of about 0.3 mm. I was told that the optimal thickness of the leather intended to be used as a bow grip is about 0.5 mm, so I would like to know if there is some method for use of really thin, good looking skin as a bow grip. As a cover of something, maybe? Of what? Thanks, cheers, Franc

(One parent): "My daughter's broke five hairs on the bow - can you put five new hairs and how much it costs?" (The other parent, the friend of the first, a few days later): "Why I should pay the full price of rehair if the bow still has almost half of the hairs?"

It is true only in the case of cheapest commercial German instruments. You will have to review more commercial instruments

Don't forget the hardness too - hard water boils at up to 2 degrees higher temperature than the distilled one.