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kyproset

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Everything posted by kyproset

  1. A teacher friend of mine recommends then to his students. I've played one and it was really worth what the student paid for. That one was the cannon copy.
  2. Thank you, the Riboni fits the bill.
  3. Thank you for the info, but I'm looking to buy from Europe to save on tax and also this one has expensive shipping.
  4. Hello all, any help here will be greatly appreciated. I need to buy a double violin case that can go on a plane's overhead compartment, so It has to conform to the European size regulations for overhead luggage. I know there are some cases that come with an extra detachable bow tube which would suit me. My requirements are that it has to be really protective of the two expensive violins I'll be carrying inside and I want to eliminate any possibility of damage. It also has to be able to maintain humidity for the duration of a 3-4 hour flight. Any suggestions please?
  5. Thank you all for your answers. Martin, I'm not in the market to buy a violin, but having seen and played a Paul Knorr, I was so impressed, I wanted to learn a bit more about the individual German makers, so I stumbled upon the name of Otto Mockel as one of the best German makers. (apologies for the umlaut, I don't know how to put one on).
  6. Thank you, I've read that one.
  7. Hello, I've tried internet to find info. on Otto Mockel violin maker, but there is very little. Could anyone post some bio info on him please. Between a Paul Knorr and a Mockel which is a better buy. Both in similar condition. Thank you.
  8. Do violins need UV light protection if they are mostly played indoors? I also think weather protection is also not needed for the reason above.
  9. They are all inside, the correct for the year label, the signature with the no.57 enclosed by it, the serial number in pencil and the Vuillaume stamp. Thank you for your elaborate answer in both threads. It seems that since it is so readily identifiable, to the point of one expert recognizing it from a distance of 3 meters away before holding it in his hands, a second certificate would be superfluous.
  10. These are the only two pics I could upload, I wish I could show the scroll, which is the best feature of the violin.
  11. Since it already has one, if the prospective buyer wants a better cert, I'm contemplating getting a letter of appraisal from a reputable dealer and if the prospect wants a new cert, they could get it themselves.
  12. I'm not insinuating that all Hill certificates are wrong, but mine came at the time when the Hill brothers were getting ready to part, so in all probability my certificate although true and honest, is not as valued as previous ones when the firm was at it's most revered status.
  13. So, in your valued opinion I shouldn't bother getting another.
  14. Hello, I need advise regarding the certificate of my violin and its worth as a certificate. I bought my J.B. Vuillaume in Sept. 1990 from Hills in London, just before they closed shop. The violin came with a new Hill certificate, dated Sept.1990. Is this cert. a valid, respected one come time to sell, or do I have to get a new one from a reputable contemporary expert. This violin I have shown to several experts and no one ever disputed its authenticity. I have asked the same question elsewhere here on the auction scroll, but I didn't get an answer. Thank you for your time and expertise.
  15. While on the certificate topic, I have bought a J.B. Vuillaume violin in Sept.1990 from Hills, just before they closed shop. It came with a new Hill cert, which I presume holds little value now. All the experts who have seen the violin certify aurally that it is indeed a nice original Vuillaume. When selling time comes in a few years, assuming the violin does not go through a dealer who is going to issue his cert, but through an auction house, would the value suffer because it only has this certificate and is it advisable to get a new one by a recognized expert.
  16. Hello, as I have trouble uploading pictures, I pasted the pictures from my post on FB as the originals resused to upload. By clicking on any picture, it will take you to the post where you can see the commentary I posted. Thank you for any help.
  17. I'm a professional violinist and an eager learner in violins. My very best investments in violin and bows have come from reputable dealers, even if I have paid a premium on them at the time. Quality like this though only rarely if ever comes at auctions and these gems usually reach record prices. I have bought at auction but not very expensive items. These were not risky and if I liked them I would keep them, or make an arrangement with my dealer friend to sell them off. As such I have bought a Martin violin bow which everyone loves, including myself, but I have also bought a nice Bazin bow which even when described of medium strength it came out to be too soft for me, so I sold it on at a profit. I have also bought a violin which came out to be brilliant, but I wouldn't advise going down this road when it comes to violins. There are too many risks. In my case this violin was described as having an open crack, but it didn't. When I'm asked by my friends and colleagues to help them find something good at the auctions, my advise is always, go to a reputable dealer and get a valid certificate. This is also my advise to you.
  18. I do understand that old instruments could find a state of equilibrium where everything works for a time, but if I was to entrust my prized possession to a top violin shop for a new SP and bridge owing to poor performance, I think one of the first tests would be to find out whether there are any open seams. At least this is what my luthier does first thing I tell him there is something wrong.
  19. Thank you all for your answers, I am under the impression though and I have also been told by my luthier, that the violin should be free to vibrate. what is the effect on sound and playability if the SP is a tight fit.
  20. Thank you Mr Preuss for clearing this up for me. I did indeed hear this being called the Morel set-up as well. I do hope this tight SP approach did not damage any violins. i was studying in the states in the mid 80's and Morel was considered a guru at the time, although I never got the chance to meet him personally.
  21. Thank you for your answer Mr. Saunders, but from what I've read, the NY set-up is a somewhat more involved operation, incorporating a higher nut, a thin, high bridge, a bass bar with increased tension. These If I'm correct, are some of the changes involved.
  22. kyproset

    NY. set-up

    Dear all, I've been reading here and there about the New York set-up, which I gather is putting a lot of pressure on the table. This Is all I know about it. Could someone please explain the mechanics of this set-up, what end is it trying to achieve and how does it change the sound and response of a violin. Is it BTW safe for the structural integrity of the violin, especially old antiques. Thank you for your lights.
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