Thomas Coleman

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About Thomas Coleman

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  • Location
    Grayslake, IL
  • Interests
    Guitarmaking, LuteMaking, ViolinMaking,TaiChi, Hiking, Cycling

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  1. Really nice Ernie! Others instruments in the line I hope!?
  2. Considering the price you paid I would not hesitate in the slightest to use Citrizip. Stuff enough bulk of paper towel into the f hole that you can get a wad to stay in place under it, best to prevent any drips on the inside. Paint on with a cheap brush. Use old credit card scraper to remove the bulk. Apply more as needed. Wash instrument off with mineral spirits. Wear gloves.
  3. If that's the case, maybe just let it ride. I'm sure it'll be fine. I do believe there is historical precedent for the nails.
  4. I think Nicks idea of using a screw or two is prudent. Much easier to do now than later, and there is no detriment.
  5. Very cool. Will the neck be nailed?
  6. Great work as always Ernie. Do you apply varnish with a brush or use your fingers?
  7. Magnesium, yes. I use Speedball oil based block print ink. I am thinking about experimenting with other inks though.
  8. I don't think they can. Strictly graphic arts. But....Buckeye Engraving can probably do one for a reasonable price.
  9. I had the die made by Owosso. You have to send them a digital file and there are requirements for the file. It has to be a vector file and any text ( in my case the entire label) has to be outlined. I used Corel but I'm sure you could use any graphics program. They give instructions for outlining text using several different programs. Thanks! haha yes...the first version was "201" but was made in 2018, so I have a few years left in this one. Worse case scenario is I'll have to use a dremel tool to grind off the last "2" in 10 years
  10. I thought some of you might be interested in this. Here is a short video of new label letterpress die. Currently I am using it as a "rubber stamp" but I hope to start actually pressing labels with it. I think this will lead to a crisper looking label. Printing can be challenging! For awhile I was using something very similar... a linoleum stamp that my wife made using a laser engraver. But since we moved and also because the decade changed (hence an incorrect date on the label) I decided to have this made. I designed the label and made the vector file and sent it off to the engraver. Unfortunately I don't have a photo of a clean printed label using this die but it's similar in quality to my linoleum stamp ie the quality is plenty good for me. I like a "handprinted" look.
  11. I do what Mike Spencer does. If you're attentive, no harm to file or feeler gauge. It works very well for me. As I'm filing, I'll use a sharp pencil tip to occasionally check my progress by "feeling" for a little step. When I deem I'm pretty close by using the pencil I really pay attention to the file. I use gauged files in lieu of rat/mouse tail. My feeler gauges are marked in mm as well. It Helps me to stay in one measuring system.
  12. This is an old adage that has been bandied about for a long time. You can find references to it it all over the internet and in many woodworking books. Usually with the caveat of "This is just a general rule and starting point".
  13. If I understand you correctly.....there is a device on the market called ToneRite that might be what you are looking for. I've never used one so can't speak to it's efficacy.