Thomas Coleman

If you lived in, for example Malaysia, Jelutong might be easier to find than spruce.

As a former patternmaker, I've worked with Jelutong extensively. I think it could be acceptable as a block wood if I didn't have access to spruce.

'Zactly! I want my CF to cause the least problems to a future repair person as possible.

The veneer is to allow future planing and truing of the neck for fb replacements etc. Block planes will balk at CF

Unfortunately I don't have a better photo of it. I can try and explain a little better. With the router and bit all set up, unplugged, I set a square on the table one edge against the fence. While rotating the bit with one hand I slowly push the square towards the bit until in just barely kisses the bit at the apex of it's cut ( don't dull the bit!). Then I transfer that position up the side of the fence. This is the limit of the cutting edge of the bit. Since my CF rod channel is blind ( it doesn't pass all the way through) this helps me to know where/when to stop feeding the piece into the cutting bit. Since I want the cut to end under the nut, using a square I transfer that to the side of the neck block and even around to the opposite side, the side facing up during the cut ( but just a little tick mark though). As I'm cutting, when the tick mark touches the mark on the fence, I know exactly where my cut ends. At this point, it's fine to just back out of the cut a few mm and turn the router off, waiting for complete stop before removing the neck block. Hopefully this explanation is clear and doesn't sow confusion!

Balsam ground. I'm disappointed in the change of pace that moving shop caused but, c'est la vie. I'm almost done varnishing and about to start making the tailpiece. Meanwhile, my new yard, house and shop are all coming along nicely. Lots of birds and flowers!

Here is how I do it. I use the Stewart Macdonald .200" rod and their bit to match. I insert the bit in a router table and make the cut in several passed. The channel exits out the root of the neck and stops just under the nut. If a future repair person removes the nut I want them to see the rod. The rod is glued in with epoxy and capped by a 1mm piece of maple. When gluing, the cap of maple is about 8mm or so to act like a caul. After the glue is set I plane the protruding bit away so that the cap is flush with the neck. The line that's just adjacent to the chin is the cutting limit of the bit. You can see a line on the fence. When the limit line hits the fence line I know that's the limit of my cut and Ill slowly raise the piece off the bit. I have many years of experience using this type of setup and I'm confident that I will not hurt the work or myself but lifting the piece off the bit can be dangerous so please proceed with caution!

Ahhh....the things a simple Google search can't easily convey, Thank you Nathan

Give what a shot? The above was just purely an example. All I'm looking for help on is what "fat over lean" means

I wouldn't necessarily, but if people don't do that why is the phrase necessary? In other words in what context is the phrase used? also, I'm not even sure it refers to oil or not, which is why I'm askin'

When talking varnish, what is meant by the phrase "fat over lean"? If I had to venture a guess I'd say that it means don't apply a varnish with less oil over a varnish with more oil. The other way around is ok. Is this correct? I'm thinking that if you do this that the different rates that the film shrinks may cause problems. Your insight is appreciated. edit: Or is the phrase "Lean over fat"?

Was it just too soft?

Ahhh...I see what you're talking about. I was thinking you were just concerned about the difference between the 62mm and the 50mm.

You probably don't even need to fill in the space.

They are cheap Chinese instruments.