Thomas Coleman

If I was considering your question, for myself, the first thing I would do is draw out the fiddle outline using your form drawing. Draw a line all around your form about 3.5-3.7mm. This accounts for a rib and the overhang. What does it look like? Do you like the look? Are the corners too long? Too short? Realistically, the chances of said instrument being anything close to the original are slim, but that doesn't matter much for a first. It should be perfectly fine for a first instrument.

I used to use a charcoal igniter in an aluminum pipe for a guitar bending iron. I would have to plug/unplug to monitor the temp. Was not ideal but worked well enough. You got purfling from Stewmac right? It's probably all fiber and if that's the case it should bend with very little heat.

yes, that's correct about low heat. Does it not have a temperature control?

Just be advised that a tormek will tackle that job VERY slowly. It should work though.

all you're doing is marking the wood so vertical is not really a consideration. I use the same purfling marker. I ground the bevels to a spear point so that I can use in any direction. I use soda can aluminum shims and paper to adjust the width.

Don't worry Manfio your fine everybody else should be to as long as you use good grammas and don't make any mistake's

Keep them zingers comin'! yer the funniest thang on this here Maestronet!

I believe 56.2 is on the wide side. A range of more "common" widths might be 48-54. I've used 48-50.

Beautiful.

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Larry Vincent Beethoven.

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Edi, hope you have a speedy recovery! Get well soon!

I tried it on 3 or 4 instruments. I should've stopped after the first.

Why the seam opened is anyone's guess. I doubt it was solvent from the varnish. I would not continue to varnish without glueing the seam closed. Do you use spool type clamps to glue the plates on? You should be able to get away with clamping the seam without damaging the varnish. Maybe use some parchment paper between the clamps and the varnish. Good luck!