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About JesseBrano

  • Birthday 02/27/1986

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    Cleveland, Ohio
  • Interests
    Violin... music of all kinds, violin-making, my family, my friends.

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  1. @outofnames I am not old, but i have worked rigorous physical labor my whole life, and have learned through painful experience that all of your muscles are affected by: The shoulder joint and The hip joint the body is a kinetic chain from your feet to your fingertips. And so.. 1. feet width and toe position, practice standing as much as possible 2. how much adduction in the left arm? Where it is most relaxed. 3. Don't crank the elbow under. I would suggest observing your feet, and particularly how and where you hold the violin. Feet should start around hip width apart, and you should always be practicing standing.. much less tension standing. Hobble from standing on one foot to the other, adjusting the width until it feels most relaxed. Also, adjust how far out your toes are pointing (or how much your glutes are activated). And the violin should be held generally so that the left shoulder is, as much as possible, in its open/loose-pack position (30 degrees horizontal adduction applies to violin. just google it....) Focus on your hand. If you square your body to a wall, how far is your left hand away from your body when you are holding the violin. Don't mind the elbow, but the hand, which will be a better marker. The elbow will always be moving more. You should experiment without holding the instrument, holding the left arm up as if you were. Move it further out, and closer in, pausing with each change to observe muscle tension. There will be a point where everything is more relaxed. This is where you should shoot to hold the violin, and adjust the bow arm accordingly. There's a really good chance that you have too much horizontal adduction and it is causing tension. You should always shoot for having the violin strings parallel to or slightly higher than parallel to the ground. This makes a huuuuge difference in how hard your left hand and fingers have to work. If in general you have too much tension and are not holding it in an optimal position for relaxation, everything else including finger mobility will be limited. One more thing. So many teachers make their students crank the elbow underneath the instrument at all times. Not necessary. The goal should be just barely enough so that the fourth finger can hover above the string you are playing on. But as you get better, even that becomes a regular micro-adjustment.
  2. Yes, it's time to put in the work. @Dennis J I experimented last night on another $2 chisel. Used the 1200 stone on the back and primary bevel. I only used 1200 and 8000 on the micro, then considerable stropping on both sides, periodically trying a shave test. I am realizing how sharp they can get now. I got it to go through a full sheep of newspaper smoothly, but not every time. Still a lot to learn. Thanks for your help. Thanks, everyone, for the great info and encouragement. You guys are a tremendous community and resource!
  3. Also, LN has a plane sharpening tutorial on YT using the ruler technique with a 10,000 waterstone on the back, on and off the edge..
  4. @Dennis J I saw Katz Moses do the buff on the wheel after the strop. Could you recommend a cheap grinder? What am I looking for? And also in that sellers video, he removes the final burr with the strop as well. When I have time from these 14 hour work days, I will try sharpening the plane blade without touching the back and removing the burr with a strop. 2 things: Am I gathering that strop-level sharpness is not necessarily as sharp as one might like for violin craft? What do you guys think about the microbevel on the back side? Is that a thing?
  5. Does anyone else second this advice? Also, Dennis, I got my LN plane today. And I was so excited, but not about the plane. Do you know what it came wrapped in? ... NEWSPAPER.
  6. I don't have a newspaper At any rate, I didn't do a microbevel. Should probably try that. Also, thanks everyone for the tips and knowledge.
  7. @David Burgess @Violadamore Gee thanks guys. I have to read those qualifications AFTER I made this video... Got my stones and strop today. Did a chisel and spent 60 seconds touching up the knife on the strop. The chisel was taking nice transparent sheets off of some soundpost stock just now. (Is it OK to put YouTube links in like this @Jeffrey Holmes?)
  8. Thanks, guys, it's all valuable feedback for me. What @Bodacious Cowboy said is just the thing. Literally just staring out. So I'll shoot to get some exp and level up... I should be getting all my stuff in the next two days. I'll see if I can get the tools I have to pass the newspaper test. Even these cheap chisels
  9. not a straight edge, but with a bend. An English Term? they use it in Johnson and Courtnall's book. I got the Hock violin knives and they are straight blades. Wondering if there's a good technique to use before I ruin them. Not cheap blades.
  10. @Wood Butcher I'm such a noob. What kind of grease?
  11. A lot of great information @Violadamore I did not know that about the effect of waterstones on the diamond. Glad i ordered the kit with the flattening stone then. @Bodacious Cowboy Yes, I saw his tutorial! Those seem to have a lot of use and value. I'm still thinking about getting them. But I should probably sharpen a few things first I do have my Hock violin knives too. This is something I wanted to ask. What's the best way to go about putting a knee onto the blade of the violin knives?
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