Trenchworker

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  1. Is there any need to sanitize violins, e.g., rentals and those that come in for repairs? If yes, any suggestions for how to sanitize the varnished wood? Elsewhere, articles state that survival of coronavirus on wood is hours to days, but how about varnished wood?
  2. I agree, Rue, sanitize is the more correct usage. I don't believe I am paranoid --- I just feel responsibility for the safety of the hundreds of kids who will take over the returned instruments. Generally, one tends to be more cautious when others than oneself are involved. I was looking for data and judgements from the Pegbox group, but when all is said and done, I'll have to make the decision --- thanks to all of you for your responses.
  3. Hi, all, When the public schools shut down, the kids were allolwed to take their school instruments home to keep practicing. At some point when schools re-open, these hundreds of violins, etc will come back for return, to be passed on to others. Any suggestions on how to steriize them? I thought about using UV light source, or hanging them out in the California sun for some hours. I have found no data on how long the virus survives on wood,, perhaps nothing needs to be done except isolate the instruments for survival time of the virus on wood, e.g., over the summer break after all the instruments have been returned to the school. Any ideas or data? Thanks
  4. Ooops, no, I forgot the recessing of the dowel tops. I shall write it down in big letters in my notebook for next time. Thanks for the reminder. And all your previous help. The dogs are miniature schnauzers (mix), brothers, they do everything together except sleep. If one gets on our bed first, the other retreats to the dog bed on the floor. I don't know how they arrived at that decision. We decided on small dogs (less than 20 lbs each) this time around because our last dog was a German shepherd mix (40-50 lbs) who lived to be almost 20 years, who lost her ability to stand up as she got older. It was next to impossible for us, as we got older, to lift her up and down the stairs. She usually slept on a rug in my workshop. I have kept the rug in the same place in her memory, but my current "scruffies" won't lie on it. They come in to see where I am, then hurry off to find a less boring activity to watch. Watch out for dogs and wounded toes -- they seem to attract each other!
  5. Hi, Edi, Here is one photo. CV 17 repair.docx
  6. Hi, Edi, I did take a couple of photos. I'll send them as soon as I find the files. In the meantime, I wish I could say yes to falling off a mountain bike or skiing. Ashamedly, I have to say I fell out of bed while just waking up. How the wrist broke and foot sprained, is a mystery to me. The doctors in the ER or after did not seem surprised (I am 85 years old, female, and osteopenic). I am recovering, still wearing a foot (boot) and wrist splint, but can do some repairing but not gouging. I could get better faster if my dogs didn't keep stepping on my foot! I wonder why they do that --- perhaps they like to hear me yelp when they do!
  7. I apologize for not replying sooner. Too much going on, including breaking a wrist (of mine) and spraining a foot. I removed the nut, base was 6 mm, so I used two dowels of somewhat less than 6 mm diameter. Worked well, I think, the peg box seems solid and the viola is now in use. Thank you very much. I may be using this technique in the future also.
  8. "Just gluing..." may, indeed, hold but it may not, without additional reinforcement particularly with the hard knocks to the head that these student instruments can get, and especially as the crack goes from one G-peg hole, around the "heel" of the pegbox all the way to the other end of the G-peg hole. Ed's suggestion of a dowel is harder to do than just gluing, but from experience, I believe will be a more permanent fix. In this particular viola, the nut and its underlying space is too narrow to take a dowel vertically. I will need to remove the fingerboard first to drill a hole for the dowel on a slant and epoxy it in. Thanks for contributing.
  9. Okay, Ed. I am paying attention to all your suggestions and photos except for checking with a structural engineer. This is too much time and and energy for me, and my experience with engineers (I have worked 27 years among them in an engineering school) is that they will "impose" requirements not relevant to my current case. I have used epoxy on violin scrolls and necks before, and those are still holding well. I have not had experience before in drilling for a dowel in this narrow and fragile place. So far, In this present case, I have put in ca glue into the crack and bound the joint with strong rubber bands and let sit, but not yet begun on the drilling and dowel placement. Thanks for taking all this time with me. It is much appreciated.
  10. The photos say a thousand words, Ed. Removing just the nut and vertical drilling would certainly make mine an easier and less risky job than removing the fingerboard and drilling in at a slant. But first I have to check by visual and by guess how the dowel will traverse the crack. The crack on my instrument is lower than on yours pictured. Thanks again.
  11. Sorry, Jacob, but the dumpster is not an option for this instrument or its relatives --- if it was, too many kids would go unschooled in music. Ed, your dowel method looks like a sturdier way to hold the neck together, after gluing the crack. It is unclear to me where the entry hole for the dowel starts: Remove the fingerboard and start the hole at the neck surface, boring in at a slant? Thanks, everyone. Lots to contemplate.
  12. Thanks, guys, for these good ideas. I hadn't seen or heard of Ed's method before --- I'm planning to try it on an old peg box before I do the real thing. The other two procedures look applicable for the crack. I was thinking of a Wittner peg for the G, as suggested by Duane88, but will need to check with the client. Thanks again.
  13. Duane88, when I say "fine" I mean that the crack is so tight that getting glue deep into it would be almost futile, even using a syringe. But it looks to be the only option, with reinforcing rings at the peg holes. A neck graft or replacing the neck would be too expensive for the client. The viola is a student instrument, made in Romania. Thanks to Duane and Nick for their suggestions.
  14. I didn't attach the inside the pegbox photo. Here it is. TrenchworkerCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docxCV 17 viola inside pegbox.docx
  15. This is a viola with a fine crack going around the "heel" of the pegbox from one G peg hole, and around to the other G peg hold. The crack goes through into the pegbox (see photos). I am thinking of putting Rehg bushings on the two G holes, and reinforcing the inside back of the pegbox with maple piece (not entire "cheeks"). Would appreciate any other ideas, or what do you think of my idea? Thank you. CV 17 viola outside pegbox heel.docx