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About Trenchworker

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  1. Learn to play with your toes.
  2. Nice looking instrument. Not sure what I am seeing through the treble side f-hole. What did it cost?
  3. I was not trying to scare anyone, only writing of my experience. Yes, it was "a bit of an odd one". I had no teacher. I taught myself to play the violin when I was 7 years old, from a book called "A Tune A Day". 6 years later, when I was 13 I had my first violin lesson with a real violin teacher. She was the one who said I needed a full-size violin.
  4. I was writing of my experience --- I do not presume to generalize to others.
  5. I say get a 4/4 violin. Your fingers will need to be trained to hit the strings at correct spots for specific notes, and unlike the frets on a guitar, any small shift of the finger whether up or down will change the pitch. It will be harder to retrain your fingers once they get used to the 3/4 size. I know from experience as a teen-ager ---- I played a 3/4 size much too long before my parents realized I should be using a 4/4.
  6. If you want to start right in and build a violin, Henry Strobel's paperback manuals (, e.g., Violin Making Step by Step, are inexpensive and provide some details, starting with an inside mold and a "classic Italian" model pattern. The manuals have no color illustrations, thus not expensive. Once you have built a few, and have the urge to design your own from "scratch", the Denis book will give you some history and methods to design and draw your own. There may be other manuals similar to Strobel's but I can't think of any right now. I wish you the best of luck starting from any manual, without watching, first-hand, a good luthier.
  7. This post is likely irrelevant to makers, but for repairers, expect to find "violas" coming in for repair that are violins strung as violas. After all, "the kids don't know the difference" (quote from one teacher).
  8. Re glue: To be on the safe side, make fresh glue batch each day, even if you end up not using it. The glue doesn't cost as much as your time to do a repair with glue failure.
  9. I don't understand this "ignore function". Why would someone want to ignore some other one? Can't you just skip over that "vexatious" comment? And does the ignore function last forever, i.e., you would never see a post by this particular person again? It seems to me that the editors are doing a good job, or posters are not vexing people, because so far I have not come across a person that I wish to "ignore". Can you give me an example of a "vexatious" post?
  10. How about Buckyviolenes? (After Buckminsterfullerenes, i.e., carbon nanotubes).
  11. Thanks, all. Something new to try with bridges when I thought I'd heard it all, and less expensive for the customer. Immersing it in boiling water, however, makes me blanch (pun intended) --- I'll try the others first.
  12. Yes, but would it still be called a violin?
  13. My practice with warped bridges is to cut new ones. But one customer has asked me why not put the warped bridge in boiling water? She called it "shocking" the bridge. (She did not know what one does next). I had never heard of that in my years at violin-making school, nor thereafter. Is that a usual and appropriate practice? And what comes after the boiling water?
  14. Yes, that is what I would do, as long as the enlarged peg holes for the Planetary pegs still leave some wood between the pegs and the Rehg ringers. I have used the ringers (10 mm I.D.) with a cracked peg box holding old Schaller machine pegs (8 mm O.D.), which are a larger diameter than Planetary pegs (about 7.5 mm O.D the ones I used)., and they worked okay, although I would have liked to have more wood between the peg and the ringer. Time and use will tell me if the repair held.
  15. I would agree with you about not bushing peg holes that would be fitted with planetary pegs, IF the peg box had not been cracked. However, with the cracks in the peg box going through peg holes, you might need to rethink the need, or no need, for bushing first.